Jordan Street
Member
I've been LD and TD for an annual children's dance production of a Nutcracker variation for 10 years now. I haven't really changed the color from my original design but a lot of it is starting to burn out. I was initially just going to replace the color but decided I wanted to lighten up the key light and give myself more "cool" options. I've always been partial to Lee and have only regularly use a handful of Rosco colors in my designs (plus, I found that Lee is nearly half the cost of Rosco), so I'm trying to replace Rosco with comparable or better Lee color.
Lee has several new Designer Series colors that I've had no experience with, and the color I'm most interested in is Lee 600 Arctic White. The description reads, "Bright, brilliant blue-grey light at 100%. It does not warm up as it dims and is not affected by amber drift." My initial thought was that this could be an interesting replacement for the Lee 201 in my template wash, but now I'm curious what it would look like as a replacement for Lee 709 Electric Lilac in my head-highs or even the shins.
Have you used Lee 600 Arctic White in a design, or seen it used? If so, what was it used for? Did it work for what you were wanting to accomplish? What about the following?
Any questions, comments, suggestions and critiques are welcome. Looking forward to your insight, friends!
- Jordan
My design uses the rep plot at the theatre and I swap rep color for my show color in 95% of it (and add 40ish specials and various "a" electrics). Here are the main systems and color:
Side Ladders:
Lee has several new Designer Series colors that I've had no experience with, and the color I'm most interested in is Lee 600 Arctic White. The description reads, "Bright, brilliant blue-grey light at 100%. It does not warm up as it dims and is not affected by amber drift." My initial thought was that this could be an interesting replacement for the Lee 201 in my template wash, but now I'm curious what it would look like as a replacement for Lee 709 Electric Lilac in my head-highs or even the shins.
Have you used Lee 600 Arctic White in a design, or seen it used? If so, what was it used for? Did it work for what you were wanting to accomplish? What about the following?
- Lee 500 Double New Colour Blue to replace Lee 201 in my Shins.
- Lee 506 Marlene: Warm Front to replace Lee 110 Middle Rose.
- Lee 525 Argent Blue: Cool High Sides to replace Lee 704 Lily as Lav High Sides. The description is what intrigued me, because it says it's "Great for a foreboding cold winter's night, but useful for general illuminance as well."
- Lee 773 Cardbox Amber: Warm High Sides to replace Lee 036 Medium Pink as Pink High Sides.
Any questions, comments, suggestions and critiques are welcome. Looking forward to your insight, friends!
- Jordan
My design uses the rep plot at the theatre and I swap rep color for my show color in 95% of it (and add 40ish specials and various "a" electrics). Here are the main systems and color:
Side Ladders:
- Warm Sides: L110 (Previously used rep color, R35, but wanted something more saturated.)
- Cool Sides: R68 (Previously used rep color, R67, but wanted something more saturated.)
- L110 and R68 also mix to a beautiful, rich white that I've always loved--especially for ballet.
- Head-Highs: L709 (Curious about L600 Arctic White.)
- Mids: ETC D40 Lustr LED (Rep) - Used for more saturated colors, though I wish these were LED Source 4s.
- Mids: L366 (Previously L165, but it felt cartoony and green, so I chose a softer blue.)
- Shins: L500 (Previously L201, but L201 is infamously green.)
- Warm High Sides: L773 (Previously used L036 as Pink High Sides, but felt L036 is too red.)
- Cool High Sides: L525 (Previously L704 Lav High Sides, but wanted a Warm/Cool system instead of two warms.)
- Cold Pipe Ends: R81 (Rep)
- Amber Back: R318 (Open to suggestions for replacing this with something else.)
- Cold Back: R80 (Rep)
- ETC D40 Lustr LED (Rep) - Use for more saturated colors.
- White Back: R60 (Rep - Useful for punching through deep, saturated blues.)
- Warm Front: L506 (Previously L110, but wanted a less saturated color to keep intensity lower.)
- Cool Front: L712 (Previously R68, but wanted a less saturated color to keep intensity lower.)
- Cold Front: R74 (Will probably replace with L714 when it's burnt, but heat shield works wonders.)
- Hot Front: L147 (Rep color, thought about changing but don't hate it.)
- N/C Front: R119 (Rep, but I don't use it much because it doesn't blend with my color by giving it a brownish hue.)
Last edited: