LED work light fixtures

[dreamist]

Hey there..

Wondering if anyone has any LED based worklight fixtures that they might be able to recommend. I'm working in an old barn theatre, with a grid height of 15'.. I have 12" beams that run parallel to the plaster line every few feet, and I would love to be able to hide said worklight fixtures immediately behind the beams..

I've looked at some of the T8 style replacement bulbs, but ideally I would love for something more integrated so I don't have to hang flourescent fixtures as well.

I presently don't have much of anything (some 300w floods, which both eat a lot of power and provide almost no good quality light coverage). I was originally planning on replacing those with straight up flourescent fixtures, but I figured I'd check into LED options before I made that spend, and I'm not seeing much.

Thanks!

Joe

 

[chausman]

Yep. Supporters of CB, Osram!


KREIOS® FL and FLx

 

[PeteEngel]

I agree! I've seen the Osram Kreios and it is bright as he!!. Highly recommended!

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Slow to market though. I see some available today but not last month. And just a little better than a 150 watt quartz flood. Still, a step ahead.

 

[JChenault]

Curious why you are not considering tube type flourescent fixtures. What do you see as the advantages of LED over flourescent in this application?

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Curious why you are not considering tube type flourescent fixtures. What do you see as the advantages of LED over flourescent in this application?

I'm interested for pipe mount - on electrics - because I don't think T5s and T8s are very stable on a rigged batten. usually over pipe grids I use a round "drum" fixture with compact fluorescents. Seems less noticeable than a strip when in show mode and easier to cover with a black scrim bag if the user prefers. Very hard to get industrials or strips that are black on outside even.

 

[JD]

I'm interested for pipe mount - on electrics - because I don't think T5s and T8s are very stable on a rigged batten. usually over pipe grids I use a round "drum" fixture with compact fluorescents. Seems less noticeable than a strip when in show mode and easier to cover with a black scrim bag if the user prefers. Very hard to get industrials or strips that are black on outside even.

How about some of those LED PAR38s? The 17 watt type really kick, and you could put them in PAR38 fixtures so they would blend in. Although I usually don't recommend the Chinese PAR cans, for something drawing this little power and throwing almost no heat, they would be a cheap way to throw a lot of light on the stage. We use them here and with a 40 foot throw.

 

[AEGProduction]

How about some of those LED PAR38s? The 17 watt type really kick, and you could put them in PAR38 fixtures so they would blend in. Although I usually don't recommend the Chinese PAR cans, for something drawing this little power and throwing almost no heat, they would be a cheap way to throw a lot of light on the stage. We use them here and with a 40 foot throw.

I must have bought the wrong Chinese PARs then, I had bought a few all white LED PARS direct from the folks over in some factory in Shenzen. They were of the 1 Watt Variety (36x1W). Was going to use them in my shop for the dark spots. Pretty bright, with a little diffusion I was able to spread the light nicely. Three days into their operation, half the LED's were out, by five days, the remaining working LED's had dimmed to about 5% of their supposed output. They must have been over-driving the LED's considerably because this is the first time I had ever encountered LED's that failed so quickly. I had only had them on for 10-12 hours each day at most.

Unless you are talking about the screw in replacement PAR38 bulbs. The GE versions have been working for my man-cave lighting quite well.

 

[DELO72]

Slow to market though. I see some available today but not last month. And just a little better than a 150 watt quartz flood. Still, a step ahead.

Absolutely correct on the first half. Slow to market is unfortunately an accurate description for us. However it is FAR better (not "a little") than a 150W quartz flood. It's actually TWICE as bright as a 300W quartz Flood (we've done the isocandela plot to verify) ... so that would make it 4x brighter than a 150W. 80% less energy than the 300W. 40,000 hrs. rated life vs. 2000 hrs....


Why LED over Fluorescent? (for the KREIOS FL, here's why):
-- No labor costs (lamp replacement).
-- small form factor.
-- Gel frame attachment.
-- IP 65 rated for outdoor use as well!
-- painted black to blend into the stage/electrics when not in use
-- Yoke accepts all standard C-clamps for easy installation.

I was going to say high CRI- but there are some high CRI fluorescent (tri or quad- phosphor) on the market these days.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

I just looked at lumens and know that isn't the whole story - but the Kerios FL was reported on one site as 3000 - I see 3200 on the banner site - and 150 quartz around 2800 - so I'll have to see them side by side to believe that it's 4 times. Maybe the FLX

Of course you can buy 10 of the quartz for the price of one Kerios - but I agree that I'll probably spec them before long. We are trying to go as all LED as makes sense now and the electrical infrastructure savings sure help - one circuit instead o 4-6 for quartz and probably two for fluorescent - though hard to justify for some applications with low utilization like a grid iron or storage room.

High school stages - where the music teacher leaves the quartz on all day long would be great. Though we are working on three shells with LED - mostly studied Desire studios - and it just would not pan out all things considered.

 

[JD]

Unless you are talking about the screw in replacement PAR38 bulbs. The GE versions have been working for my man-cave lighting quite well.

Actually, that is exactly what I was talking about, just the empty cans, and a good LED PAR:

Full specs: http://www.tcpi.com/FileUploads/Ric...fic_spec_sheet_47330_Rev02_59391_0D508AA6.pdf

Check around, you should be able to get these at about $38 each.

 

[MPowers]

FWIW, The Light source has several LED units available.
LED Dimming 100 Watt Fresnel Work Light
LED Dimming 100 Watt Fresnel Pendant Light

 

[DELO72]

I just looked at lumens and know that isn't the whole story - but the Kerios FL was reported on one site as 3000 - I see 3200 on the banner site - and 150 quartz around 2800 - so I'll have to see them side by side to believe that it's 4 times. Maybe the FLX

First I need to thank you, when I saw this I thought, "odd, he's confusing the color temp (3200K) with the lumens." so I checked our web page and you were right, we had the data for the CCT and Lumens reversed on there!

The lumens (2800) on the 150W lamp is the total light output of the lamp itself in all directions as collected by a sphere. It's different with LEDs. It's more like a Lux or footcandle rating for LEDs as they are directional only, so they don't really compare. I can say that the 150W fixture doesn't come close to putting out all of it's light (even with the reflector) out the front. You're probably getting 1800 lumens or less out of the fixture. Side by side (as we showed at LDI and again at USITT), the 60W FL is 50% (I think I said twice. Mea culpa! 1.5x is what I meant) brighter than the 300w halogen fixture. The plan is for the 70W FLx to be as bright or brighter than the 500W FCL halogen fixture.

Thanks again for the heads up on the webpage so I could have them fix it. Should be swapped/corrected as of 5pm today!

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Do you think they'll both be at LDI? "The plan is for the 70W FLx to...." sounds like that one is not yet ready for prime time - at least not on a dealer's shelf yet.

 

[JD]

There's another factor to look at. How high are these work lights? One of the reason that florescents don't work well is the dispersion is so wide that very little light makes it to the floor. So, don't go by lumens only, check out the beam spread and make sure the light isn't wasted in areas where it will do nothing. Even work-lights end up involving a bit of math

 

[DELO72]

There's another factor to look at. How high are these work lights? One of the reason that florescents don't work well is the dispersion is so wide that very little light makes it to the floor. So, don't go by lumens only, check out the beam spread and make sure the light isn't wasted in areas where it will do nothing. Even work-lights end up involving a bit of math

A very good point! We are going to have the IES data files available for download on the web page as soon as we have it for just that reason.

We'll have both fixtures (FL and FLx) on display at LDI. If I don't have the FLx by LDI, someone please just shoot me. We hope to have first prototypes next week for showing at both Cinegear and BLMC, and then production a month or so after that if everything goes as planned. (hint: nothing EVER goes as planned. *sigh* But we are trying!)

 

[BillESC]

This warrants a look. 50W - U.L.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

There's another factor to look at. How high are these work lights? One of the reason that florescents don't work well is the dispersion is so wide that very little light makes it to the floor. So, don't go by lumens only, check out the beam spread and make sure the light isn't wasted in areas where it will do nothing. Even work-lights end up involving a bit of math

That was true but with the availability of high bay fluorescent, they are fine to 30 or more feet. With T5 lamps, hard to beat for cheap bright light from upon high.

 

[JD]

This warrants a look. 50W - U.L.

Every now and then I check out what is available in outdoor general LED area lighting to replace our 24 or so 100 watt MH fixtures on the roof. To date, I don't think the commercial outdoor LED fixtures have hit the price curve point that the indoor ones have. Always keeping an eye on them

That was true but with the availability of high bay fluorescent, they are fine to 30 or more feet. With T5 lamps, hard to beat for cheap bright light from upon high.

The one thing about the LEDs that I like over T5 is that with a 50,000 hour life, I will probably never have to go up and visit them again!

 

[Esoteric]

Every now and then I check out what is available in outdoor general LED area lighting to replace our 24 or so 100 watt MH fixtures on the roof. To date, I don't think the commercial outdoor LED fixtures have hit the price curve point that the indoor ones have. Always keeping an eye on them



The one thing about the LEDs that I like over T5 is that with a 50,000 hour life, I will probably never have to go up and visit them again!

Yeah, but usually the electronics will give out long before the LEDs.