110V Pars

[arexlame]

I've just bought 8 (second hand) 110V par 64's (I'm in Australia, source is 240V). I have one 240V series adaptor so far, but I'm yet to check out what else needs doing. I've got a few questions if anyone has answers or advice that'd be greatly appreciated!

- Is it easier/more convenient/economical/legal to make more 110V series splitters and use two pars, or am I better off converting them to 240V? (I've got no clue about the possibility of this)
- Are 110V globes harder to find than 240V models?
- They don't have any markings on them whatsoever, how do I know what wattage lamp to put in them?
- I notice that most of the wiring around the lamp bases is exposed and melted. What's the best cable to use for them to avoid this? (I think I briefly saw one of them had been re-done with standard PVC, what's the technical name of the silicone type cable that is used on lighting fixtures?)

Thanks in advance!

 

[theatricalmatt]

In theory, you can connect two 110V PAR 64s in series; the resultant "fixture" would then take 220V in. In the States, we do this all the time with ACLs (natively, 28V) and MR-16s in striplights (individually 12V; as a whole, 120V). There's the risk that if one side comes undone, you've got 240V into a 110V fixture, which does not end well.

That being said, there isn't much to a PAR 64 -- essentially, the ceramic, a short run of cable, and a plug. Some lamp bases and plugs are rated for both 120V and 240V usage; the maximum load changes depending on the voltage, of course. The lamp sockets may be identical -- a British GX16d socket is the same as an American EMEP socket, at least -- meaning you can fit either lamp into one.

I would assume, since Australia's 240V, it would be much easier to find 240V PARs. There are certainly scads available on Australian eBay. You could ask your local theatrical supplier if they stock 110V PARs, or import them from overseas. It's possible a local rental company may stock them, too.

For the lack of markings and burnt wiring, I'm assuming you're talking about the lighting fixture itself and not the lamps. PAR 64s are really dirt simple; again, if you can con the socket, wire, and plug used, you come up with the allowable wattage. Most PAR 64 bases are rated for a 1kW lamp.

For internal wiring for lighting fixtures, use Teflon cable. New bases should come with leads already attached, usually ~1m long. I don't think I've ever seen a user-assembled PAR 64 socket. If the wires at the base are salvageable but clipped short, you can use ceramic wire nuts to splice on a new length of cable; but it's probably easier and safer in the long run to purchase new sockets.

 

[Chris15]

The norm is 2 in series, lamped at 1kw each
Resulting load is 8.33A (2kW) @ 240v.

240v lamps give less lumens per watt and are more fragile - shorter lamp life and more vulnerable to vibration.

What plugs do they have on them?

Which state are you in?

 

[porkchop]

I've never worked in Auz. but when I saw a decent amount of 110/120V pars in 240V houses on tour so I would say it's a fairly normal thing to see in the industry, although I cannot speak to the legality. Just make sure to label them well if you keep them at 110.

 

[arexlame]

Thanks @theatricalmatt - I'll see how bad the other lamp bases are as to weather to replace them or not.

What plugs do they have on them?
Which state are you in?

I'm in Southern Queensland, and they've got 110V plugs on them, so round active and neutral pins. So if 110V globes are avaliable, then they'd be the way to go?

 

[JD]

Some advice to make your life with series PAR lamps more pleasant- If possible, try to match pairs so that the lamps are the same age, brand, and (with luck) same manufacturing lot. Here's why- There is always some variance in construction between lamps and some variances that occur as the lamp ages. Any variation will put more stress on one lamp and less stress on the other. The greater the variance, the greater the stress differential. Too much variance and you will get a premature failure. The other little hiccup is that there's a good chance that when one blows, it will take the other one with it. As the lamp fails, the filament often arcs over and that will put almost the full 240 volts across the other 120 volt lamp. Flash-overs are also hard on the dimmer packs, although most well built dimmers will survive.
ACL rigs were very common during the early days of rock lighting. (Still a lot in use.) This involved putting four 28 volt lamps in series (112 volts, close enough.) Very rare to have a rig flash-over and end up with a working lamp left!

 

[Chris15]

I'm in Southern Queensland

Urgh, Qld's electrical regulators have the reputation of being the most painful in the country.
Nowhere else do you need a licence to service gear.

So I don't know how they'll feel about the legailty of the series adapters. That's normally where the powers that be get stressed. The normal one I've seen down here has 2x 110v sockets (or down here, often the round earth 240 plug is used instead - let's not go there - and then that flex loops through the plug and one wire stays uncut and the other gets cut and one side goes to Active, the other to neutral. As one can imagine, most inspectors aren't fans of the same coloured wire in both active and neutral.

The safer option IMHO would be a box with 2x panel mounted 110v connectors and a piece of flex, provided of course you comply with all the normal requirements, non flammability, earthing if a metallic box, proper gauge of cable etc etc.
In Qld, it would probably need to be built by someone with a licence...

As a side note, generally you don't really need to label them, the odd plug is enough to stop most people plugging them into 240...

 

[David Ashton]

If the pars are matched they can give you 2000 hours life as opposed to 400 for 240 volt, however they are a bit of a pain to couple up all the time, I use 240 volt lamps, saves lots of hassles, but the fittings must be double insulated to comply, I use "parsafes", these comply and I feel much happier up a ladder sticking my hand inside a live can to rotate the lamp.

 

[arexlame]

Right, so I think I've arrived at the conclusion that I have 6 64's that are in working order. These are 110V, so I'll make some Y-splits (hoping nobody looks too closely) and use them until the globes start to go. The other two, I'll put new ceramic bases on and make them 240V. As the 110V fixtures start to blow, (as I've now learn't they'll blow in two's) I'll order some 240V plugs and convert these to 240V fixtures.

I'm thinking this because; 240 PAR64's are $30 and 110V PAR64's $60, the debate about weather or not 110V Y-Spits are entirely legal in QLD and I'm a high school kid trying to get this done on the smallest budget possible

However, if you think I've got this wrong - feel free to let me know!
Thanks for everyone's input so far.

 

[Chris15]

The other two, I'll put new ceramic bases on and make them 240V. As the 110V fixtures start to blow, (as I've now learn't they'll blow in two's) I'll order some 240V plugs and convert these to 240V fixtures.

Remembering that to replace a plug in Qld needs a licence too

 

[arexlame]

Remembering that to replace a plug in Qld needs a licence too

It's only 10 minutes across the border to NSW, I'm sure I can take my tool box and par cans and come back with some new plugs attached

 

[JD]

It's only 10 minutes across the border to NSW, I'm sure I can take my tool box and par cans and come back with some new plugs attached

Now THAT is funny!
Needed some humor today.

 

[Chris15]

I like your problem solving approach

 

[Chris15]

Needed some humor today.

Sorry JD, we only permit humour down here...