Control of 0-10v Architectural LED can lights

Robert Engel

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
I've got another question about 0-10v dimming. The problem is the typical architectural style of 0-10 that the drivers source current for the dimmer / control to sink where zero on the control equals minimum brightness of the can lights, but only when power is switched off do the lights really go dark/off.
Specifically, there are some can lights that we need to change control from the architectural dimmers over to DMX control. They are wired with each can has an individual 0-10v line already home run to it, however the 120v power is common to all. We already have DMX to 0-10v converters working for each (we can individually control the brightness of each can - minimum to maximum), but to get them to go dark/off we would need a relay to cut power to the string of cans. Therefore to make one go dark (interrupt power), all would go dark. Does anyone know of a different LED driver that we could swap out the existing drivers that would actually go dark on 'zero' instead of 'minimum on brightness'? Or a relay that could be installed at every can that would watch the 0-10 and disconnect power when 'zero' is controlled to actually make it dark?

Am I making any sense at all?

Thanks,
Robert Engel
 

RonHebbard

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2004
Location
Waterdown, ON, CA
I've got another question about 0-10v dimming. The problem is the typical architectural style of 0-10 that the drivers source current for the dimmer / control to sink where zero on the control equals minimum brightness of the can lights, but only when power is switched off do the lights really go dark/off.
Specifically, there are some can lights that we need to change control from the architectural dimmers over to DMX control. They are wired with each can has an individual 0-10v line already home run to it, however the 120v power is common to all. We already have DMX to 0-10v converters working for each (we can individually control the brightness of each can - minimum to maximum), but to get them to go dark/off we would need a relay to cut power to the string of cans. Therefore to make one go dark (interrupt power), all would go dark. Does anyone know of a different LED driver that we could swap out the existing drivers that would actually go dark on 'zero' instead of 'minimum on brightness'? Or a relay that could be installed at every can that would watch the 0-10 and disconnect power when 'zero' is controlled to actually make it dark?

Am I making any sense at all?

Thanks,
Robert Engel
Calling @jfleenor
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 

RickR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Location
Spokane, WA the great "Inland Northwest"
You asked for drivers and there are many. Look for "Fade to Black" in the description. Lutron, Acuity, Eldoled are major manufacturers. Note however that replacing the drivers will be a lot of work and likely void any warranty and UL listing. Those may impact insurance as well.

Otherwise you'll need a 0-10v relay at each fixture (or group), a DMX to 0-10v converter, and some way to program the two together.

The Foundry dimmers mentioned would work if you can replace the control wire with DMX cable. (or move to wireless DMX, not recommended for house lights)
 

Robert Engel

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
The existing can lights are controlled by a dimmer similar to a Lutron Diva DVSTV.
Line voltage comes into the switch, which creates the 'switched hot' and the 0-10v control.
We've already converted the 0-10v control over from those switches to an existing DMX-0-10v box which works a treat, however, it can't switch the power off to make them dark aka off.

Replacing the drivers is not a problem - my day job is electrical contractor, so that's right up our alley. I tried looking at the Lutron site looking for 'Fade to Black' with 0-10 and LED driver and I'm having a hard time. It was always trying to ignore 0-10 and do one of their digital controls or forward/reverse phase dimming. I'll try looking into Acuity next. I'm not sure off the top of my head what the values of the driver are that I need, but methinks it's 1000mA constant current.
 

RickR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Location
Spokane, WA the great "Inland Northwest"

tyler.martin

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Location
Canada
EldoLED drivers will be your best bet. However it is very hard to buy the drivers direct, as they only sell to direct fixture manufacturers, except for a few loopholes. Be prepared to pay as much for the driver as a new fixture. You'll need to get the right type of driver for the LED array/COB in the fixtures you have, either Constant Voltage or Constant Current, and sized for the load of course.

Look for 0.1% dimming or 1% dimming, as that tends to be the wording that is most commonly seen. You pay more for lower dimming rate drivers.
 

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