Crimp connector / Crimper
- Thread starterCharc
- Start date
The green wire was crimped with a Vaco 1900.
The white wire was crimped with a Klein 1005.
The black wire was crimped with a Matco MST703E.
Because of its short handles, the Matco was the most difficult to use. Notice that its "dent" is not as deep as on the green wire, even though the tool was fully closed.
Not having a tooth, the Klein deforms the entire ferrule.
Although all are serviceable, the winner and still champion, is the (unavailable) Vaco No. 1900.
Crimped for normal purposes if it has a seam there, on the wrong side of the crimp terminal. Though good pointing out assuming the Klien was properly sized for the gauge of crimp terminal.
Also had in seeing the Mtaco's tooth a concern for crushing verses displacing material. Thanks for your study.
On the Matco tool, would grinding away on the stops on the inside of the handle help the tooth to have a deeper 'bite'?
could be wrong in my above post. Don't see a seam in the crimp where the tooth went into, was commenting on it by way of shadows in what seemed to be the tooth into the top of the terminal. Second look, I could be wrong, these terminals could be up side down and correct - main idea is "seam into saddle" Or put the seam of the ring terminal into the U-shape of the crimp tool and never the tooth of the crimp tool into the seam.
What's in the photo appeared to be tooth in seam but I might be incorrect - sorry if I am.
What's in the photo appeared to be tooth in seam but I might be incorrect - sorry if I am.
Well the quest has ended. I found a pair of like-new Vaco 1900's on ebay. Final price, with shipping, $10.
Good tool, some debate about the cubic as it were square inch of material displaced as opposed to just crushed. In the end in presenting such a tool for at least 12ga cable, that thickness of the cimp tool is about the same, all was acceptable where I work with the other since the 70's ME type guy as acceptable this 1900 tool.
Just don't put in in Mayhem's hands or he will break it.
Overall, don't crimp high temperature crimp termials with this tool, a bit too small of steel plate making up the tool to do it well in not breaking, and also don't attempt to cut 10-32 screws with it for the same reason. Beyond that, them useless wire stipping jaws provide for some really nasty cuts to the palm of your hand if crimping or especially cutting screws, so if useful as a screw cutter, grind away them wire stripper cutters that make nasty chomps at the palm of your hand. At that point once safe they can cut if at times you pound the rivet pivot home if loose, you can and very well cut the 10-32 screw.
Good tool for it. Bad tool for wire stripping, good crimp tool for normal crimp termals or cutting screws. Love that handle also. Given the Vatco 1900 crimp jaw, I don't feel the need for a Klien 1005 and 1006 tool on-site to do crimp termials of various wire sizes and I tink this tool does a better job. Good tool to have if not doing high temperature. If doing so, the Klien tools proper (Vatco owned by brand by Klien) are needed by way of strength of tool
Just don't put in in Mayhem's hands or he will break it.
Overall, don't crimp high temperature crimp termials with this tool, a bit too small of steel plate making up the tool to do it well in not breaking, and also don't attempt to cut 10-32 screws with it for the same reason. Beyond that, them useless wire stipping jaws provide for some really nasty cuts to the palm of your hand if crimping or especially cutting screws, so if useful as a screw cutter, grind away them wire stripper cutters that make nasty chomps at the palm of your hand. At that point once safe they can cut if at times you pound the rivet pivot home if loose, you can and very well cut the 10-32 screw.
Good tool for it. Bad tool for wire stripping, good crimp tool for normal crimp termals or cutting screws. Love that handle also. Given the Vatco 1900 crimp jaw, I don't feel the need for a Klien 1005 and 1006 tool on-site to do crimp termials of various wire sizes and I tink this tool does a better job. Good tool to have if not doing high temperature. If doing so, the Klien tools proper (Vatco owned by brand by Klien) are needed by way of strength of tool
Has anyone tried this from Knipex? I havent but everything else from them I have laid hands on has been top notch. I plan on ordering one soon to try out. If the link doesnt work its model 97 32 225 Crimping Pliers
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
epimetheus
Well-Known Member
I prefer a ratcheting crimper with the proper die set for the terminal being used.
Similar to my tool:
Proper die for insulated terminals:
This die actually has little nubs on the jaw surface that mark the terminal when crimped. This allows for inspection to verify the terminal was crimped with the correct tool. This is mandantory in the industrial plants I've worked in.
Proper die for seamed, uninsulated terminals:
Similar to my tool:
Proper die for insulated terminals:
This die actually has little nubs on the jaw surface that mark the terminal when crimped. This allows for inspection to verify the terminal was crimped with the correct tool. This is mandantory in the industrial plants I've worked in.
Proper die for seamed, uninsulated terminals:
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Knipex is a quality company that makes top notch and unique products that are also about 3x more expensive than Klein.
The Thomas&Betts WT2000 is nearly identical and lists around $60 and can be found for as low as $40.(Even Grainger is selling it for $3 and they're always marked up)
It looks like most places are selling the 97-32-225 at about $55 before shipping.
If you notice there are minor differences. The Knipex version has two insulated terminal crushing slots, as well as a slim plier nose. The T&B version has a snipper in the nose.
Also note my price estimates are based off my skills with the Google.
However the Knipex crimper I've had my eye on is the 97-21-215-C. Of course it's $40 and I just got my Vaco 1900's, but it might be a suitable replacement. Someone buy a pair and let me know.
Now, as I'm sure Derek will say if I don't, we have to remember that Knipex makes all their things in Metric sizes to European preferances, which might not be suited for us 'Mericans.
STEVETERRY
Well-Known Member
Fair enough ship, you know I always respect your opinion as well as anyone with the credible "voice of experience". However this is an internet forum so we should all feel free to share what has worked for us, and perhaps more importantly, what hasn't.
Out of all the $$$$$$ stripping tools out there, the one that I have used the most since I got it 4 years ago has been none other than the $8 IDEAL T-stripper. At that price, I got two.
As I said, my favorite tool for stripping cable is PRACTICE.
And nothing wrong with necroposting, the information is always valid.
I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the Miller 101-S stripper, which has been around in the same design since the 1940's. It is my favorite, since you can slide the stop out of the way and simply feel your way through the insulation to the right depth. For production stripping of the same gauge repetitively, you can set the stop.
You can find it here:
Miller Stripper and Cutter Model 101-S
ST
ST
gordonmcleod
Active Member
I use a Klien crimper in my field tool box but in the shop I use a Ideal ratcheting crimper wit interchangable dies for everything from D subs up to 10 awg
For strippers for small signal wires I use the ideal maxim as it will not nick into the small conductors For large wires I use a stripper called the crocs from a small outfit called rack-a-teirs Speciality Electrical Tools: tools for the pouch
there wire reel racks are also excellent
I use knipex waterpump pliers, diagonal cutters, linesmans pliers, and needle nose pliers
For screwdrivers I use Wera
and I have used one of those blue ideal cabtire jacket strippers for almost 30 years and find it wery usefull
te big problem is toolboxes getting larger and larger and heavier and heavier
almost to the point I need a school bus for it
For strippers for small signal wires I use the ideal maxim as it will not nick into the small conductors For large wires I use a stripper called the crocs from a small outfit called rack-a-teirs Speciality Electrical Tools: tools for the pouch
there wire reel racks are also excellent
I use knipex waterpump pliers, diagonal cutters, linesmans pliers, and needle nose pliers
For screwdrivers I use Wera
and I have used one of those blue ideal cabtire jacket strippers for almost 30 years and find it wery usefull
te big problem is toolboxes getting larger and larger and heavier and heavier
almost to the point I need a school bus for it
epimetheus
Well-Known Member
Why-oh-why did you have to post that link. There's goes this month's discretionary spending...
gordonmcleod
Active Member
I simply MUST have a Strutster.
STEVETERRY
Well-Known Member
For quick emptying of the discretionary spending coffers, nothing beats Snap-On for general tools or Wiha for insulated V-rated electrical tools. See:
Wiha Insulated Tool Kits and Insulated Tool Sets.....Crawford Tool On Line Wholsale Catalog & Store
ST
gordonmcleod
Active Member
I found Wera to have slightly better tips and Wiha
their insulated line is
Products: Wera
the full line is
Products: Wera
knipex
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Home
the water pump I like
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
linesman pliers
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
diagonal cutters
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
their insulated line is
Products: Wera
the full line is
Products: Wera
knipex
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Home
the water pump I like
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
linesman pliers
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
diagonal cutters
KNIPEX - The Pliers Company. - Products - (http://www.pliers-online.com)
Re: Stage Pin Ferrules
Necropost resurrection warning... Wow, just spent days reading the various threads on stage pin connectors and how to terminate, crimper dissertations, etc. I think they could easily be organized and published into something like The Stage Pin Bible, by Ship & Derek (et al)... amazing knowledge and experience.. (Tiny excerpt above).
Anyway, just got a few Bates connectors with the ferrules (because that's what they had) to replace old or twist-lock connectors on a few S4's. Got the above mentioned 12ga and 16ga ferrules per Ship from McMaster-Carr in 2 days.
Two perhaps insignificant questions to Ship, if you're there (or anyone else who can comment)-
The 16ga ferrule is a bit longer than the 12ga. Do you stick the 16ga into the 12ga as far as it can go (so it sticks out the end of the 12ga), or do you hold the tips even, or do you trim the 16ga to make it even, or does it matter at all?
Second, I think you mentioned in another thread to pre-crimp the ferrules a bit before screwing down on them. Must this be with the $50 ferrule crimper mentioned above, or can you just squeeze (how much?) with needlenose pliers...?
Thanks.
Necropost resurrection warning... Wow, just spent days reading the various threads on stage pin connectors and how to terminate, crimper dissertations, etc. I think they could easily be organized and published into something like The Stage Pin Bible, by Ship & Derek (et al)... amazing knowledge and experience.. (Tiny excerpt above).
Anyway, just got a few Bates connectors with the ferrules (because that's what they had) to replace old or twist-lock connectors on a few S4's. Got the above mentioned 12ga and 16ga ferrules per Ship from McMaster-Carr in 2 days.
Two perhaps insignificant questions to Ship, if you're there (or anyone else who can comment)-
The 16ga ferrule is a bit longer than the 12ga. Do you stick the 16ga into the 12ga as far as it can go (so it sticks out the end of the 12ga), or do you hold the tips even, or do you trim the 16ga to make it even, or does it matter at all?
Second, I think you mentioned in another thread to pre-crimp the ferrules a bit before screwing down on them. Must this be with the $50 ferrule crimper mentioned above, or can you just squeeze (how much?) with needlenose pliers...?
Thanks.
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