Control/Dimming Fun Dimmer Solution
- Thread startertexskittles
- Start date
I'll take the unterminated cables...
Let me guess:
- No strain relief on the cables entering the box
- Wrong cable type for use inside an enclosure
- Plywood isn't a recommended electrical box material
- Assuming 2.4kW dimmers, the residental wall switches aren't rated to past 10A, a 200% overload potential
texskittles
Member
all good suggestions, though I checked and the switches are rated to 20A, not sure where they were purchased.
I am interested in rebuilding/improving this as it had to be put together on a rather tight schedule.
I am interested in rebuilding/improving this as it had to be put together on a rather tight schedule.
Don't take this as a slam at all. It is a great solution and oddly enough one that kind of harkens back to the days of Patch bays instead of Soft patches. But it is always good to know where improvements can be made. My biggest issue would be the plywood box as the whole point of enclosing electrical connections is to reduce the chance of sparks comming in contact with combustables.
Agreed. The wooden enclosure with no strain relief is numero uno. In order to do that properly, you need to mount it all in a metal enclosure and get proper strain relief. As of right now any safety/electrical inspector is going to have a heart attack if they see that... and for really good reason. Its extremely unsafe and the odds of a fire happening due to this piece of "gear" is very high.
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
Not necessarily. Would you put a fuse between a twofer and an extension? Metal box, strain relief, labels, proper terminations, and possibly a flush mounted connector more patch bay style (just for usability stand point, made a ground lift Di box with tails... bad idea....)
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A new/old definition of the term switchboard. Thus let's cite some specific examples of UL standards and NEC requirements.
When I needed one for a Chicago storefront show, the lighting vendor said, "We don't have anything like that. How 'bout we just give you another 12-pack of dimmers?" "Oh, hells yeah!," said I.
Vaguely reminds me of a product a little company named Production Arts Lighting used to rent back in the dark ages. It's a shame we don't have anyone around here who knows anything about that.
When I needed one for a Chicago storefront show, the lighting vendor said, "We don't have anything like that. How 'bout we just give you another 12-pack of dimmers?" "Oh, hells yeah!," said I.
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Wouldn't enclosing this in metal create a new issue though potentially with Earthing?
You've made the earthing dependeant on a plug being connected which under my code is not cool.
So in that respect, I'd probably prefer to go with an appropriate plastic and head the double insulation route rather than the Earthing route...
Strain relief would still be required.
Do you not have shoebox dimmer s up there in AUS? How about any other appliance or luminaire in a metal case?
It's not as bad as it looks...
If you look closely, the switches are mounted in blue wall boxes which are then mounted in the wood box. Perfectly OK by code, as this is how they are used in a house. The clamps on the plastic boxes, however, are not rated for SJ cord. If there are clamps inside the plywood box, we may be OK, but I would prefer clamps outside the box. Assuming the grounds are connected to the green screws on the respective switches, that's OK too.
I would prefer to see this in a metal enclosure, with all the grounds tied together and to the enclosure. I would also prefer Kellems for the cable grips.
One other issue is the lack of any interlocking to allow only one load is turned on at a time. I would have at least used 3-way switches (SPDT) but that wouldn't help with the first set of switches with 4 loads all tied to channel 24.
It does look like there is at least three unterminated cables, with exposed bare ends. That needs to be fixed or at least get some wire nuts on it. The cables are SJ; I would have to look back in the code books to see if they are allowed here.
/mike
If you look closely, the switches are mounted in blue wall boxes which are then mounted in the wood box. Perfectly OK by code, as this is how they are used in a house. The clamps on the plastic boxes, however, are not rated for SJ cord. If there are clamps inside the plywood box, we may be OK, but I would prefer clamps outside the box. Assuming the grounds are connected to the green screws on the respective switches, that's OK too.
I would prefer to see this in a metal enclosure, with all the grounds tied together and to the enclosure. I would also prefer Kellems for the cable grips.
One other issue is the lack of any interlocking to allow only one load is turned on at a time. I would have at least used 3-way switches (SPDT) but that wouldn't help with the first set of switches with 4 loads all tied to channel 24.
It does look like there is at least three unterminated cables, with exposed bare ends. That needs to be fixed or at least get some wire nuts on it. The cables are SJ; I would have to look back in the code books to see if they are allowed here.
/mike
STEVETERRY
Well-Known Member
Vaguely reminds me of a product a little company named Production Arts Lighting used to rent back in the dark ages. It's a shame we don't have anyone around here who knows anything about that.
:
Production Arts indeed manufactured two varieties of switchboxes:
--6 channel A/B/Both with 6 20A feeds, 12 switches and 12 outlets
--6 channel ON/OFF with one 20A feed and 6 switched outlets
These used a magnificent Leviton 20A tungsten rated metal handle SPST panel mount toggle switch which was very low cost and very long life. I don't think it is made any more.
Unfortunately, I don't think I have pix.
Channeling Johnny Mercer,
Fools rush in, Where wise men never go, But wise men never fall in love, So how are they to know?
How so very, very true.
Fools rush in, Where wise men never go, But wise men never fall in love, So how are they to know?
How so very, very true.
Just wanna mention that that looks like yellow SJTW.
