The rosin paper is not a bad idea but it needs to be glue down with a good multi-purpose adhesive. Then glue the one foot squares down with the same glue. A 3/32 to 1/8 inch notch trowel should be used. When you lay out the room, measure it in both direction. the object is to get the same size cut on both sides. Say it is 12ft 3inches wide. That would make an 1 1/2 cut which isn't good. Add the three to twelve to get fifteen and divide that in half, that makes a 7 1/2 cut. Do the same in the other direction and chalk two reference lines to start the tile against.
Masonite flooring issue
- Thread starterTmeche
- Start date
A quartersawn spruce floor was long ago the floor to have for a stage.
but it needed to be treated properly. An old instructor of mine told me that such a floor should never be painted as that would not allow the wood to breath. on occasion the floor would need to be oiled to rejuvenate it. It would naturally heal nail holes and much of the damage from the stage screws that were in common use way back then.
once it was painted the wood could no longer heal itself.
But times have changed, a groundcloth is practically unknown, the heavy point loads of overloaded casters delamanate even today's plywood floor and one or two coats of paint go onto the floor for every production.
Today's common tape was unknown to the past
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Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
Thread Archaeology...
We're about to lay new TH on the floor of our blackbox, replacing some that's about 12 years old. I don't know if the stuff the local lumberyard has in stock is dual-tempered ($14.50 for 1/4"), but I see paint-both-sides and drill-the-countersinks, and 45-screws-per-panel. I'm curious, though, since the imminent reason for the new floor is we're staging Richard Harris' Stepping Out -- which isn't really a dance show, but has a couple big tap numbers at the end -- if there is some sort of thin (like, 3-4mm), roll-out high-density foam subflooring we could put between the plywood and the masonite... and if we *should* do that?
Any opinions on that point?
We're about to lay new TH on the floor of our blackbox, replacing some that's about 12 years old. I don't know if the stuff the local lumberyard has in stock is dual-tempered ($14.50 for 1/4"), but I see paint-both-sides and drill-the-countersinks, and 45-screws-per-panel. I'm curious, though, since the imminent reason for the new floor is we're staging Richard Harris' Stepping Out -- which isn't really a dance show, but has a couple big tap numbers at the end -- if there is some sort of thin (like, 3-4mm), roll-out high-density foam subflooring we could put between the plywood and the masonite... and if we *should* do that?
Any opinions on that point?
Odd are your hardwood us already sprung. Also, for tap the last thing you want is a spongy floor. Go right on top of your hardwood.
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lwinters630
Well-Known Member
Tod9, you are correct, this is a tough project for your skill set. If you try this, seal all sides first. Then use a full spread adhesive designed for hardwood floors. Leave a 1/2" gap around the perimiter and cover with base and shoe.
That said, that each piece will expand, and when it shrinks back , there will be small gaps around each board. The glue acts as vapor barrier. Don't go more than a 15'x15' room. Screwing to concrete, to, me, would be a deal breaker.
Personally, I would use a cheap vinyl plank glued down, sand and paint like your felt look you want. It will be more dimentionally stable. Go to a local owned floor store, you will get better advice than a big box.
As they say in vagas, Good Luck.
That said, that each piece will expand, and when it shrinks back , there will be small gaps around each board. The glue acts as vapor barrier. Don't go more than a 15'x15' room. Screwing to concrete, to, me, would be a deal breaker.
Personally, I would use a cheap vinyl plank glued down, sand and paint like your felt look you want. It will be more dimentionally stable. Go to a local owned floor store, you will get better advice than a big box.
As they say in vagas, Good Luck.
lwinters630
Well-Known Member
See my previous post. And a new thought is using a cork floor, and paint/seal to get your look.
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
Well, I wouldn't have expected "spongy" from the sort of foam I had in mind, which wasn't foam rubber, but more like ... HDPE? Is that what it's called?
But, ok; I'm sure everyone will be happier to hear that they shouldn't underlay it anyway. We'll probably have enough trouble getting the city employees who will lay it to nickel and dime the joints...
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