Metal Saw Advice?

I love using cold-cut saws
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Pours coolant over what you are cutting, the blade turns much slower, no sparks and less flying debris (and a LOT QUIETER).
My college had a nice cold-cut and a couple multi-cutter saws (with a stock of various blades). Very nice. The cold cut is expensive, but in my opinion if I was to put together a scene shop working with metal I'd buy a cold cut no questions asked.

I also had a good relationship with a local steel supplier and a tool-and-die shop who both let me use their cold-cuts occasionally. Hey the tool-and-die shop waved most of their fees and their min shop fee for me.

I installed all the machinery at the tool-and-die place, including their computerized lathes, auto-feeding cold-cut saw and such. Very nice equipment that would give people in a scene shop wet-dreams.

I do love the cold cut saws. Worked with one for a couple of summers. Maybe some day we will work with enough steel to warrent that, but not yet.

Mmmmm though, it just cutts like butter.
 
I do love the cold cut saws. Worked with one for a couple of summers. Maybe some day we will work with enough steel to warrent that, but not yet.

Mmmmm though, it just cutts like butter.

Out of college that was for nine months my career' - between it, the drill pess and in cleaning up other people's welds. Loved the B-Weld as it was called though I have no idea as to why. My curren shop has one and I recently sent one of my assistants over to it to cut some 1/8x3/4" stock for use as spreader plates for U-Bolts. He blamed the tool for his +/- 1/16" tolerance that didn't help the show much in needing them at the last minute. This given even 1/16" tolerance over drilled holes. Took a bit time and I should have supervised him better, this given I was raised on such a cold saw and my own boss would line up at random at times four pieces I cut together and unless they were within 1/16" of the overall combined length, I would have to re-cut them. I was less than compassionate into my helper's blaiming the tool for his lack of ability in finding a way to make the tool accurate. Beyond that... believe me my boss was really really pissed with me more than once when he went to cut some steel with it but I had an aluminum blade in it and forgot to change the tag saying what blade was in it. The current shop has a speed change they use verses blade change. Decent enough I suppose. They also don't have a good stop table set up very well which is absolutely necessary if you want to be accurate. The stop rod for such a thing is crap.

Such a tool is perhaps 1.5 times your budget and unless you have room for it's proper chop saw stop table needs, probably more than you need. Never been impressed with band saws for cutting especially larger lengths of steel - this even if liquid cooled. Porta Band, pipe cutter not really impressed ether - this granted it was in the ceiling of a theater and such a ceiling was lit with compact fluorescents. Meaning every time you powered up something big the lamps flickered and went out until done cutting in the dark. PortaBand was nice on the other hand but I don't remember it overly accurate.

Super Sawzall just as accurate in my impression dependant on the user and accuracy, though the porta band has a longer blade that stays cooler. Got this techinque of locking what I need to cut into a bench vise and cutting along the jaws of the vise which gives at least for smaller stock very accurate cuts.

Used some abrasive chop saws over the years, if accurate in set up I think they are accurate enough. Build a stop table for them. Different blades one can buy for them in grit perhaps in thickness. Never noticed much of a wobble or bend in cut as opposed to that of a band saw that can go way off in cut. Noisy yes, accurate and good cut I think also yes if set up right and the proper blade.

Saw someoe cutting aluminum on a table saw today with a fairly normal carbide wood or perhaps more finish blade. They also do it with the chop saw though also with not the blades they chop wood with for accuracy I hope. Depends on what you are cutting in also a vertical band saw able to cut steel or aluminum on need at times. Also used the band saw after college.
 
We use the DeWalt Saw and as a commercial rigging installer, it is invalubule. The blades are, as said, about $140-$155 but if you cut carefully and don't "chop" or rush into cuts on thin or angle stock, they last through many sharpenings. We have a local shop that sharpens them for $19. They do great angle or miter cuts, but only as "great" as the operator as there are no pre-set stops. You have to set each angle up your self. In fact the saw cuts so well you can zing through thin stock and that is the biggest mistake. You can cut so fast that the thinner stock catches between the teeth and knocks the tips off. This makes sharpening more expensive for each tooth damaged. When we switched from abrasive to the DeWalt our blades costs dropped 30%, labor for cutting dropped 80% because the cuts are so accurate, no burrs to have to file or grind off and the material is cool to the touch as soon as the cut is finished. Oh, yeah, no shower of sparks!

Michael Powers, Project Manager, ETCP Certified Rigger-Theatre
Central Lighting & Equipment, Des Moines, Iowa.
 
I've got one of these Makita metal cutting saws. I'm not a metal shop guy, I just use it for cutting Unistrut. It's really quick but sends sparks and debris flying EVERYWHERE. It's definitely a tool to take safety VERY seriously with. I use the full face shield, gloves, and put on something with long sleeves if possible when using it. I'm actually a little afraid to do miter cuts with it.
 
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I've got one of these Makita metal cutting saws. I'm not a metal shop guy, I just use it for cutting Unistrut. It's really quick but sends sparks and debris flying EVERYWHERE. It's definitely a tool to take safety VERY seriously with. I use the full face shield, gloves, and put on something with long sleeves if possible when using it. I'm actually a little afraid to do miter cuts with it.

Abrasion saws do that. They are load, they throw sparks everywhere, and when a blade flys apart you don't want to be around. Abrasions saws cut by grinding away material, producing a lot of heat and metal dust. The cabide saws cut by tearing material. They also produce heat, but nothing on the scale of an abrasion saw. The material that is cut away becomes something similar to saw dust. It gets stuck in your hair, clothes, and shoes. Can't tell you how many times I have been in bed at night picking little metal curly cues out of my hair.
 
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Abrasion saws do that. They are load, they throw sparks everywhere, and when a blade flys apart you don't want to be around. Abrasions saws cut by grinding away material, producing a lot of heat and metal dust. The cabide saws cut by tearing material. They also produce heat, but nothing on the scale of an abrasion saw. The material that is cut away becomes something similar to saw dust. It gets stuck in your hair, clothes, and shoes. Can't tell you how many times I have been in bed at night picking little metal curly cues out of my hair.

MrsFooter must love that...
 
MrsFooter must love that...

And one wonders why in the 20's thru 40's or beyond there was a basement door to houses with a shower near that door. This in an unfinished basement near a washing machine. MRs Ship at least just has me take a shower when done for the night before bed.
Love the Skil Saw Worm drive with an abrasive blade and 12" x 1/4" thick speed square... like butter for a good cutting job beyond the Sawzall with bench vise top to guide for the quick and easy. Other shop across the parking lot during winter or rain storms has the gear but rule of the day is if a quick cut and I can get away with it in cutting before the Shop Manager heard the noise and made his way over to this location where fabrication noise was made, its all good or fair game. Be really nice to have metal cutting gear in my electrical fabrication area, but we are not supposted to be making noise in fabricating electerical gear. Anyway above the above, change blades back and forth and the Skill Saw worm drive with the proper blade is also a good steel cutting tool not mentioned. A bit more harsh on accuracy but given a good speed square... not bad.
 
Gafftaper

If you are getting sparks and debris from your toothed Makita saw, you are using the blade far past the time when it should be sharpened.

Michael Powers, Project Manager, ETCP Certified Rigger-Theatre,
Central Lighting & Equipment Inc., Des Moines, Iowa,
 

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