so in a bind, without access to spares or fast shipping, you can experiment after taking the thing apart, inspecting to see if the crossover is passive post-amp, or was done with bi-amplification in their amp module. now you know what you need to replicate.A second on the "maybe." If it is a two-way system (horn and speaker) you will need a crossover network to separate the highs and lows. Of course, some powered speakers only contain a single amplifier and already contain a passive crossover. Most better speakers will have separate amplifiers for the highs and lows. Unless you install a passive crossover, you will blow the HF driver.
Also as mentioned above, the active amplifier may also contain built in equalization to compensate for the response curve of the speakers they chose. Without that EQ, they may sound pretty bad.
I'll be honest... I do it all the time. As a TD for a small community theater, if it doesn't involve soldering irons and gaff tape, it's not going to happen.
I have two subs right now. One is a Yorkville 10" with a fried amp, so I bypassed it and feed it 300w with a low pass set at about 80hz. The other one is a super-craptastic home-built particle board bandpass box from the trunk of some kid's civic with two Kicker 12" subs that I feed with about 400w in series to keep a safe impedance. Super hacked, but it sounds pretty incredible. I did have to glue the surround on one speaker. The bandpass of the box lets the excursion go a little wild around 60hz. I keep that second one far out of sight lines by putting it under the seating risers. A nice clap of thunder really wakes up the sleeping people, but they don't have to see how hideously ugly it is.
I would suggest just doing the research on crossover points that the boxes/drivers were designed to handle, then bi-amp it or fab up your own crossovers. Online plans are a google away, and parts express has crossover kits you can solder together. If you really want to grassroots it and make it happen, it will take some effort, but you can do it.
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