Automated Fixtures Scroller Error

[tyler.martin]

I've got a Apollo SmartColor 7.25 that seems to get confused when it is given a command from the console. Basically it won't home to the correct location, and on the Ion I have our scrolls built and calibrated, but if I tell it to go to Frame 4 it will go quite a bit further. If I try to use the encoder wheel to set the level, it will only go as far as frame 2 or 3. There is a return line on the run, there are only 2 scrollers on a 750w PSU, there is another SmartColor on the line that works fine. The one in question is addressed correctly, not overlapped, patched as a generic scroller (but i tried the real profile) not proportioned on the board...

I figure it is an issue with the DMX board on the unit itself. Any other ideas?

 

[Call911]

Sounds like an ion fixture problem. What if you patch it as a generic dimmer, does the frames match up with the dmx values in the Manual? I'd start there, try to narrow down the problem source to the board.

 

[tyler.martin]

Sounds like an ion fixture problem. What if you patch it as a generic dimmer, does the frames match up with the dmx values in the Manual? I'd start there, try to narrow down the problem source to the board.

Its not a Ion issue, There is another SmartColor Patched to the same channel (with the same profile) and it responds fine.

 

[BanditRO]

Optical sensor maybe?? Dealt with units where a piece of the gel label was still attached and the unit would randomly detect the labels...

Is the data to the two units daisy chained? If YES, is the working unit upstream or down stream?? Could be a bad solder joint in the cable. I ran into that on installs...back in the day...

 

[tyler.martin]

I'm thinking it might be the optical sensor, or if the motors are servos? There isnt anything near the optical sensor on the unit itself, but im going to clean it out and see what happens.

 

[BanditRO]

Inspect the gel string for remnants of the label. I have seen that, in Wybron Forerunners, affect the function of the unit...

Not sure if the Apollo & Forerunner use the same optical sensor technique...

Good luck!!!

 

[LavaASU]

What is the optical sensor getting it's marks from? What I mean is are there black/opaque marks on the gel? Or is it counting spokes on an encoder wheel? Have you checked the position of the sensor? I worked with some a couple of years ago that used a sensor with and encoder wheel and they were constantly getting off (probably b/c the sensor was positioned by bending the lead and the vibrations/movement were knocking it). To the point that it became who's turn is it to take apart half the scrollers today.

 

[Kelite]

Howdy Tyler, just stepped back in the office after a brief hiatus. If your situation is solved- hurray!

If not, here are a few ideas-

The original SmartColor scrollers use an optical sensor which is protected beneath the motor cover. When you were cleaning dust, fog residue, etc., from this area you would likely recognize a misaligned sensor.

As BanditRO mentioned, cabling is often suspect. To eliminate this factor, please swap scrollers within the chain and rerun a test cue stack. It's worth a shot to see if the problem exists within the cabling.

In the event the main PCB is pooping out or has been charged with high voltage, dropped, etc., we have replacement boards if needed. They are pretty easy to swap.

Looking forward to your comments!

 

[icewolf08]

It is also worth checking to make sure the scroller is fully calibrating when it starts up. If the gel string is stuck to itself somewhere it may not calibrate correctly, and thus think it doesn't have all the frames. I have had no issues controlling my smart color scrollers from my Gio with the built in Smart Color profile, so I doubt it is an issue with your console.

 

[JDurnford2011]

How old is the gel string in the unit? I used to work with these in a theatre and I always replaced the gel scroller when it wouldn't home all the way after a few times and I fixed it by replacing the gel string. Make sure when you install the gel that you prep the springed wheel by spinning it until it becomes tight and then scotch tape one side of the gel and start rolling it on.

However if thats not the problem either, you might want to check the power supply. Try plugging the scroller unit to a known working power supply and see if that fixes your problem. Usually with a bad power supply though you will have other units that will shortly fail and sometimes it wont be able to scroll at all until you fix it.

Justin Durnfod
Production Specialist
justindurnford.com

 

[tyler.martin]

The scrolls themselves are only a few years old. We rarely used these scrollers until recently. I've swapped positions in the cable run and swapped PSU's and still get the same issue. The scroller will not fully calibrate when powered on, it usually stops around the 5th or 6th frame and then goes back to O/W. When the unit powers on it will run back and forth through the scroll 3-5 times before it will return to the O/W position, and the other Smart Colors will home just fine after 1 calibration run.

Nothing looks crispy fried on the main PCB, and I did bend the LED's on the optical sensor back to be in better line with the wheel, but no luck... Kelite, how much are the replacement PCB's?

 

[Kelite]

The scrolls themselves are only a few years old. We rarely used these scrollers until recently. I've swapped positions in the cable run and swapped PSU's and still get the same issue. The scroller will not fully calibrate when powered on, it usually stops around the 5th or 6th frame and then goes back to O/W. When the unit powers on it will run back and forth through the scroll 3-5 times before it will return to the O/W position, and the other Smart Colors will home just fine after 1 calibration run.

Nothing looks crispy fried on the main PCB, and I did bend the LED's on the optical sensor back to be in better line with the wheel, but no luck... Kelite, how much are the replacement PCB's?

It does sound like a circuit board issue Tyler, as the other scrollers calibrate properly after homing through the gelstring once, as per programmed. If our 'wonky lil friend' is repeatedly trying to reach the other end of the string unsuccessfully, and is receiving a healthy dose of 24V DC and clean data- it really narrows down the component possibility.

MSRP on the repacement PCB is $199, which I'm sure is negotiable through any one of the fine dealers in our family.