The Dyna Spot is notoriously dim. The problems lie in the optics -- the
spherical reflector doesn't collect enough light (most is lost by light hitting the inside of the body of the
fixture which then translates in to heat) and that 4.5" conza (stepped)
lens directly in front of the lamp doesn't help matters any. The front
lens is likely coke-bottle green and the
fixture has a fairly wide
beam angle.
I'm not saying there isn't a way to retrofit a
360Q socket and
reflector assembly and lose the
conza lens (it's no longer needed if an
ellipsoidal reflector is used) but it's a pretty intense process, and best left up to someone who really knows their way around equipment. That would eek out a little more luminosity for a fairly cheap price if you can cannibalize a
360Q, but you pay the price in fabrication. Remember, it still needs to be able to
bench focus, and relamping shouldn't involve taking the
fixture apart.
I've also caught wind of someone doing an arc lamp upgrade, but that gets in to some pretty serious electrical work.
For notes on the Capitol (in the case based off “Backstage Handbook”, I have the following choices in not knowing for sure what
fixture we are talking about:
Mark III Follow Spot: 1500w-Q T8 C-13d
Quartzfollow Follow Spot: FEL
Super Q Follow Spot: ?1350w
From Capitol, I list in my notes no #901 as a version from Capitol but possible given model numbers in that range on Lekos otherwise at listed. Their follow spots don’t seem to normally have part numbers listed persay but it’s possible they had them. I do list a #902 Dyna spot from
Altman - prospectively
Altman had a #901, but that’s assuming it’s an
Altman and not Capitol
fixture looked at. (The
Altman Dyna looks by far different than my Kliegl #1179 Dyna Beam..., so do the ones in the “
Photometrics Handbook” from my really old one from either brand as per "Dyna" title for it.)
Somewhat very confused over what
fixture you have in this case. Not sure specifically what
fixture you have at this
point if using a DTA lamp, possibly a Marc III I would think if Capitol, I just have no notes on what that lamp the Marc III used. The part number more leads to
Altman though. The DTA is a Mog
pre-focus socket, fairly rarely used in anything these days and interesting for a follow spot. The DTA lamp on the other
hand is the long life version of the lamp type. If you can afford the 25hr DTJ lamp verses on average 100hr DTA lamps, I would say you can safely output a
bit more light and
color temperature out of that lamp without modifying your gear. There is higher wattage lamps but nothing available in
halogen at this wattage. This lamp will soon become only available from EIKO as a brand for a few more years as one of the few making often long discontinued lamps for others. This lamp will not be on the market much longer. (Same story the DTJ below in not lasting much longer.)
In other words, not sure on the
fixture you describe, but not matter which, if you have DTA, the DTJ is more efficient without too much a change in overall heat/wattage
etc for the old
fixture short of service
call to it and liability problems above. Just 1/4 the lamp life and not a huge boost in output. Clean lenses and
reflector after that and perhaps you do some 1/4
CTB color correcting
gel in it with the
boomerang to boost the output some - or at least trick the eye in doing so as a cheap fix. Proximity is a factor by way of the law of inverse squares or
law of squares for light, but tricking the eye in a higher
color temperature is also something that the S-4 is doing in comparison to the actual light. Add some 1/4
CTB blue to your
gel frames and you might trick the eye sufficient to
play fair with the S-4 Lekos sufficiently.
Replace the lamp also possibly as
color temperature and luminous output does go down some with life. Clean the lenses - dish washer them with “Jet Dry.” After that, for this
fixture, it’s an antique that someday would be better served in the
lobby of the theater lamped down and adapted for some other long life and less output lamp to light some
element of the
lobby. Antique yes, save it from disposal yes, but otherwise unless paying high bucks for someone like me to retrofit it to something else - and yes I would be high bucks in doing so... best not to modify it. Leave it DTA and put on low output and
dimmer in the
lobby as sculputure, E-Bay or put it in a closet with a note of not to touch for at least 50 years.
On the
Altman 1000 or 1000Q, above notes on Jet Dry and overall cleaning than sort of a debate for me on going Philips #6981P lamp at 750w/115v, FEL (Now that the FEL/R lamp is now gone), or go Ushio JCV 120v-1200wCH Ushio #1000972
Above concepts in could overheat your
fixture and or cooling for it won’t make that lamp last as long. Honestly I bought a set of them for a customer that thought he had #1000Q but had Dyna instead in reality. Sitting on these lamps since returned for
play test in working. Think that such a lamp would work - assuming it’s over specification but such a lamp wasn’t invented yet as similar to the Inkie lamp still at 100w but not normally used for that wattage in concept.
Anyway, for the 1000Q, (worked on many) it’s a concept in lamp type I think might work and safe with the
fixture in having worked on many of them over the years. Granted my personal opinion and not in reference to the condition the gear you have in able to sustain such a lamp. (This also serious enough to reflect that I as personal opining in not having tried it, does not reflect on the website or where I work in that we don’t use such fixtures anyway.) Liability thing done, going with the 1.2Kw lamp to replace the 750w or even 1Kw version of the lamp should work just fine in this
fixture. I seriously believe that there is a 1.2Kw option out there for a 1000Q that should be more intense and work just fine.
Yes heating and cooling is a factor, but on the other
hand so is invention of newer lamps in technology.
ETC for years was saying that it was fine to extract that pin from the 750w lamp for use in a 575w
fixture. Or drill the hole into a
socket. Granted it was 18ga verses 16ga
wire for lamp used in
fixture, still though as heat
wire, it was safe enough initially to use, and more something to grow to in use. Safe but not preferred. (Might not be officially PC correct in this above statement and these days one should never
power up a 750w lamp with 18ga
wire.)
Contact
Altman directly to be sure in doing this lamp for the 1000Q
fixture you have in going Ushio #1000972
Altman most likely will say that they never have heard of such a lamp and most likely not unless one of my contacts in public speak verses private speak. Your contact will say it’s not recommended but also tend to run this lamp up the chain of command in becoming recognized in getting nowhere. Inkies for 100 instead of 150w got no where in having to pay for re-testing. Given that,
Altman will not say much more that thanks for the idea but won’t pay for the re-testing for UL listing compliance to the new lamp. On your own liability to use.
Given that... before you change to a new lamp - this assuming your
fixture is in good condition and can handle a higher heat lamp, it’s liability. Yes perhaps a better lamp, I have not yet tried it and don’t know. Heating issues are possibly a problem, but on the other
hand it is better than a FEL.
In optimizing such
fixture... sure I and many vendors could service
call such a
fixture for your needs and I expect that any number of vendors could and would bid on such a project for upgrade and or optimize even to other standard in making the
fixture into something else for lamp supply.
Keep it antique and as origional as possiblele if you can, than not modified if also possible whe put into storage. Yea, can make it color changing
LED fixture if you want.... history of the
fixture on the other
hand is another thing. Yep, not as dim - retire and save.
