Work light fixtures

[dreamist]

Hi all!

I've been putting off upgrading work lights at my venue for a long time, and I think it's finally time.. I have an old barn venue -- the grid height is about 15'. Currently I've got some terribly inadequate halogen fixtures pointed at the stage for work lights, but that's expensive to run and woefully too dark..

I've looked at some LED fixtures (the Kreios FL etc) but I'm thinking that I might be better off just going straight up fluorescent... T5HO looks like it might be a good fit -- good lumens, at good efficiency at higher temps (the barn tends to run on the warm side.. no A/C..)

Attaching a quick picture of my stage (not the greatest, but it's what I had handy on my phone).. it's obviously kind of a strange shape ;-) I've got the entire thrust to cover with worklight, and also the area upstage (behind the white screen) which doubles as the "shop"..



I was thinking some twin bulb T5HO fixtures over the stage, hidden as best I can between the beams, and some quad lamp T5HOs for the upstage work/shop area...

Any thoughts on favorite fixtures for this purpose? Am I missing the boat by going with fluorescent? I don't like how much space on my grid they will take, but I'm just not sure of a better option..

Thanks!

 

[Dustincoc]

The only space I've worked in recently has some 4' florescent fixtures as the hardwired worklights. They also have 4 scoops programmed into the houselights for additional worklights.

 

[soundofsparks]

I have some HID Source Four PARs that are killer bright.

I think if you're willing to go fluorescent, just go metal halide and save time replacing lamps ... Also they're wicked bright.

 

[dreamist]

I have some HID Source Four PARs that are killer bright.

I think if you're willing to go fluorescent, just go metal halide and save time replacing lamps ... Also they're wicked bright.

Doesn't the warm up time and re-strike cool down get in the way of using those as worklights? I know I often need to switch worklights on and off in a short amount of time, to quickly check a focus and then go back to worklights etc.. I don't really have much experience with metal halide though so I'm not very versed in how they work in practice..

 

[DELO72]

KREIOS FL would be a Perfect fit for that space. The height is just right for them, they give off less heat than fluorescent, use less energy, last longer, and have a gorgeous Halogen-like appearance (3200K CCT and 95 CRI). Mind you I'm biased... Four or six FLs would give you perfect illumination in my humble opinion.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

Hard to beat florescent for initial cost and even life time. The one problem in an open space like yours or a black box is are the white lamps and reflectors that stand out. For that reason I'd try to go LED in a black housing. I like them on a clamp and at least flex if not cord and plug so they can be moved if needed. The longer you can wait - months even - the greater the options will be, and probably at lower prices.

 

[soundofsparks]

Doesn't the warm up time and re-strike cool down get in the way of using those as worklights? I know I often need to switch worklights on and off in a short amount of time, to quickly check a focus and then go back to worklights etc.. I don't really have much experience with metal halide though so I'm not very versed in how they work in practice..

Well, we use the worklights for working (carpentry, hanging, etc.) and don't turn them on for focus calls or cueing work. I'll put some N/C or light color system lights on a sub for a quick "works" should we need full stage lights immediately in the event of an emergency. I'm unsure of a scenario where I'd need to do what you are describing. If you do, neither of those options would work for you and I would just get T-3 Halogen work lights or 12" Scoops. Neither will have the same punch when doing carpentry.

 

[RickR]

LED construction grade work lights are very cheap these days. Get lots because they aren't as bright as the nice Kreios units. But too is good so you have overlapping pools and fewer dark shadows. FL is cheaper (T8 for work lights ) but not by much.