Pan Screw or Yoke Bolt?

[JHWelch]

For focusing Source Four fixtures, I have almost always loosened the yoke bolt on the to move the fixture from side to side. I almost never use the pan screw, usually just to store the C-Clamp while it is off the light...

Just wondering, is it easier to move side to side with the pan screw? I am starting to think so, at least for lights hanging with the C-Clamp above it. Maybe not lights on the cat-walk.

What do most people do?

 

[Van]

Most people, I have found don't use the "f-it nut", as invariably it causes the instrument to not only pan but when re-tightened it can cause the instrument to lift slightly as well.

 

[cprted]

Call me crazy, but if it's called the "pan screw," you'd almost think it was intended for panning an instrument. Then the yoke bolt, which keeps the instrument attached to the C clamp and in the air, doesn't have to be loosened off ...

 

[gafftapegreenia]

For reasons I don't fully understand I prefer the pan screw.

The biggest reason they are hated is that people always have to over tighten nuts, screws, bolts, etc. People get wrench happy and gouge the spud.


I don't know, its just something about loosening the bolt that keeps the light in the air that I don't like.

 

[Anvilx]

What about the the Belleville Washer?

 

[Les]

I don't know, its just something about loosening the bolt that keeps the light in the air that I don't like.

Yes, but you would have to loosen it A LOT for the light to fall. And if you're using a safety cable, it's a moot point, other than a lost/falling bolt. Falling bolt still dangerous - yes, but unlikely.

I usually just pan the instrument by grabbing the yoke and tugging it in the target direction, and re-tighten if necessary. If I am panning to the right -- great! I usually don't have to re-tighten.

I usually keep my yoke bolts tight enough to firmly lock the instrument into place, but not so tight that my method is difficult or impossible. I too have found that the pan bolt often changes the tilt of the instrument ever so slightly, usually by moving the stud out of the inevitable divot that it caused.

 

[Van]

Call me crazy, but if it's called the "pan screw," you'd almost think it was intended for panning an instrument. Then the yoke bolt, which keeps the instrument attached to the C clamp and in the air, doesn't have to be loosened off ...

Remember when referring to the engineeing world "intention" and "Reality" can be miles apart. As to loosening the bolt which keeps the instrument attached to the C-clamp; If you're loosening the yoke bolt 2.5" to pan the instrument, as opposed to the 1/4 turn it takes, then you're doing something wrong.

 

[sem6727]

I prefer the "pan screw" method. However, I'm used to the term f* nut. For me it is just easier to loosen one tiny little screw, as I often find that the yoke bolt was victim to a wrench happy techinician and therefor is too tight. Also I find it is easier to tighten the unit with the pan screw rather then the yoke bolt. I've had to refocus a unit more then once when trying to tightening the yoke bolt by accidentally knocking the unit out of focus. I only use the yoke bolt if the pan screw is broken off.

Now I think the next question will be cresent wrench or Jesus wrench?

 

[chris325]

I usually just pan the instrument by grabbing the yoke and tugging it in the target direction, and re-tighten if necessary. If I am panning to the right -- great! I usually don't have to re-tighten.

I usually keep my yoke bolts tight enough to firmly lock the instrument into place, but not so tight that my method is difficult or impossible. I too have found that the pan bolt often changes the tilt of the instrument ever so slightly, usually by moving the stud out of the inevitable divot that it caused.

I like to use this method often, especially when I need to quickly refocus a fixture and don't feel like going to get an Altman wrench. As for which bolt to loosen, the little tiny pan screw is snapped off on half of our S4 Zooms, as a result of people overtightening the screw. When tightened correctly, the pan screw works well, if I can get the wrench in depending on how it's focused. If the screw is overtightened/gone, then I use the yoke bolt.

With the Colortran 5/50s (most of our inventory) there are actually specific yoke knobs on a few, easier to use than the pan screw, but a S4 in general is way less of a pain to use than those things.

 

[derekleffew]

...With the Colortran 5/50s (most of our inventory) there are actually specific yoke knobs on a few, easier to use than the pan screw, but a S4 in general is way less of a pain to use than those things.

Unless ALL of my fixtures have had the 5/16" Pan Screw replaced with one of these, (see http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/10437-c-clampery.html, posts 21-24), I prefer NOT to have any choice:

Mega-Clamp

When a fixture is overhung, loosening the pan screw can be problematic, as the unit drops ~3/4", and the jolt is enough to break the lamp filament, especially if the lamp it lit, as it typically would be during focus.

gafftapegreenia, I think you're paranoid. Most yoke bolts are at least 1" long and 13 tpi, so after a few complete revolutions of the head one would think the fixture would be loose enough to pan.

Just my 2¢. YMMV.

 

[JChenault]

In one venue I work in , the pan screws have been replaced by a handle. IE I can loosen and tighten it by hand. In that venue I use the pan screw ( or pan handle). In any other venue I use the yoke bolt.

I never take a crescent wrench to the pan screw.

 

[fx120]

I have been slowly swapping out our old Altman C-clamps out with Global Truss trigger clamps which only have the single nut at the yoke.

From the factory they come with M10x1.5 wingnuts, which we have swapped out for standard hex nuts for additional holding power when you need to mount an instrument on a vertical pipe.

 

[chris325]

When a fixture is overhung, loosening the pan screw can be problematic, as the unit drops ~3/4", and the jolt is enough to break the lamp filament, especially if the lamp it lit, as it typically would be during focus.

gafftapegreenia, I think you're paranoid. Most yoke bolts are at least 1" long and 13 tpi, so after a few complete revolutions of the head one would think the fixture would be loose enough to pan.

Just my 2¢. YMMV.

Although the pan screw method is a bad idea when overhanging, I would assume that the large majority of fixtures aren't overhung in most applications. However, I will make sure to remember that.

As for the 5/16" Pan Screw alternative, the ones that Colortran made were metal, transfer heat from the fixture easily, and can be really difficult to loosen. However, new shutters are on the "desperately need to be replaced" list before pan screws (wait... Leviton doesn't make 5/50 shutters anymore... I want some Source Fours.... )

 

[Dionysus]

I tend to use the Yoke Bolt, sometimes using the Pan Screw.

I find that some people (rookies) tend to overtighten the Pan Screw thus leading to diviting or other problems such as snapping off the head of the Pan Screw. This has led to common names for the Pan Screw such as "the holey #%@& bolt" or the "$#I7 bolt", even the "no-no-screw".

As long as the Pan Screw is never overtightened it's fine to work with (as long as the yoke is DOWN, not side or top yoked).

If yoked up or side yoked, for obvious reasons it is ideal to use the Yoke Bolt instead of the Pan Screw regardless of any argument.

Yes the Pan screw allows for adjustment without loosening off something holding the rest of the fixture to the clamp itself, however you should never get the yoke bolt THAT loose to pan an instrument. In addition to that, you are REQUIRED to have a safety chain affixed to catch the instrument if, for instance the Yoke bolt fails or is removed.

When focused my common phrase SHALL BE FOLLOWED "Love it, Lock it, Leave it.", i.e. make sure that things like the yoke bolt are locked (or appropriately tightened down) before moving on to the next fixture.

Cheers.

 

[GreyWyvern]

Pan screw if the yoke is down, but yoke bolt if it is up.

When it is on its side, I still tend to use the pan screw, as loosening the yoke bolt introduces more play to the fixture. I just feel like I can control the fixture better that way.

 

[WestlakeTech]

I use the pan screw. I don't know why, but we always called it the Jesus Nut at my high school... makes no sense since it's not a nut and it has nothing to do with Jesus.

Basically, there's no 100% right or wrong way to do it. Just try 'em both and do whichever one you prefer.

 

[derekleffew]

...makes no sense since it's not a nut and it has nothing to do with Jesus. ...

It's a bolt head, not a nut, but IS (square) nut-shaped.
Some use "Jesus!" as an expletive, when the head shears off the shaft.

Makes perfect sense, but the term should be avoided nonetheless, for a variety of reasons.

 

[iLightTheStage]

I also like the method of having a tightened f-nut, and a firm yolk bolt, so that during focus, I can just pan it at the yolk, and 8/10 times it doesn't need a wrench to it when focused.

I always use the yolk bolt because usually I'm coming from below the light, and that's easier to reach, and trying to adjust the f-nut can be difficult with your wrench hitting between the fixture's yolk and the truss. Plus, I work primarily with rental gear, which usually has a ton of divots in the stem, making it possible to loosen the f-nut and having it randomly tighten on you while panning.

But that's all my two bits.

 

[Cashwalker]

The majority of my fixtures are hanging from Unistrut, so I don't have pan bolts. On the 4 fixtures that are hung with clamps, I still use the yoke bolt. I always sandwich the yoke between two large washers, so there always just enough slip to adjust the focus without loosening it. If it's too loose after focus, then I tighten it again.

 

[Van]

So I'm only minorly dismayed at the number of responders who say " Ijust tug on the Yoke..." or, " ..that way you don't need to re-tighten the yoke bolt...". If you loosen the Yoke bolt or can tug on the yoke and the fixture moves then that fixture is not "Locked - Down" any passing doofus can accidentally hit it with their head, leg, arm, whatever and knock it out of focus. If you are on my electrics crew you WILL tighten theat yoke bolt back down after focusing. "Carpenter Focus" fixes make me angry...