Keep my scroller gels from burning out?

I put 750w lamps in the Source 4s that light my scrollers, what's the smartest way to keep these gel rolls from burning through?

If you don't need every color in the gel string, you can also put 2 or 3 frames of the offending color next to each other, and run an effect with the console that slowly keeps he scroll moving, thus not allowing one spot to get too hot.
 
Just to be clear, he means put the heat shield in the inner colorframe runners, closest to the lens(es) (the color changer goes in the outer runners). An ERS's "accessory slot" is just beyond the template/gobo slot and is used for drop-in iris or gobo rotator/changer. I've heard tell (urban legend?) of some using this slot to house dichroic color media as it allows the user to purchase smaller (and thus less expensive) dichroic color filters.

Now if some manufacturer of smart color scrollers, from Indiana, would just build gelshield into every scroller, the gelstrings might maybe would last a long, long time.

If you don't need every color in the gel string, you can also put 2 or 3 frames of the offending color next to each other, and run an effect with the console that slowly keeps he scroll moving, thus not allowing one spot to get too hot.
The DCC (Dark Color Compensator) trick, a feature (some might say only good feature) of the Compulite Animator of the early 1990s. I've never had scrollers in a long-enough running show to try it. Might be more trouble than it's worth, having to keep track of an effect running, ideally on a separate cue list.
 
The DCC (Dark Color Compensator) trick, a feature (some might say only good feature) of the Compulite Animator of the early 1990s. I've never had scrollers in a long-enough running show to try it. Might be more trouble than it's worth, having to keep track of an effect running, ideally on a separate cue list.

Or, with certain consoles, one could link that cue to an effect submaster that separately runs the logic for the "DCC" trick. I recall rochem using a similar approach for DMX control of hazers.

rochem said:
I usually write an "On 30s/Off 30s" effect and apply it to the hazer, then put that effect on a submaster. As we go through the show, if there's a certain time when the LD wants the haze off or something, I just link a macro from the previous cue to turn the Haze sub to 0%, which stops the haze indefinitely. When we want haze back, I just link a second macro to bring the haze sub back to FL.
 
Now if some manufacturer of smart color scrollers, from Indiana, would just build gelshield into every scroller, the gelstrings might maybe would last a long, long time.

Derek
I'm confused. The smart color pros I got from Indiana have what I believe is a heat shield built in to the scroller, am I wrong, are there other scrollers sold in Indiana or what?
 
Derek
I'm confused. The smart color pros I got from Indiana have what I believe is a heat shield built in to the scroller, am I wrong, are there other scrollers sold in Indiana or what?
You are correct, John. All of our scrollers have always come with a piece of gel shield attached. However, it isn't as much of a heat shield as it is an IR/UV filter. Hence, we call it gel shield and not heat shield. It is a heavy piece of plastic material with a metallic film on it. It is directional. To test the direction it should be facing (if there isn't a "This side towards light" label, use an ohm meter to check for continuity. The side that has continuity faces the light! I know, cool! Right?

Also, our gel shield is available in several different sizes. Contact your favorite Apollo dealer to purchase it. It is also nice to use when just dropping a cut of gel in a frame into a light simply to extend the life of the gel.

EDIT:
Also, keeping the fan on high will help the gel last longer. However, the more saturated the color, the more light/heat/energy it will be absorbing. That's why darker colors fade and/or warp faster. If fan noise is a concern, the suggestion by @Floobydust of assigning the fan speed control to a channel to vary the speed depending on noise level is good.
 
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Depending on the actual lens that you're using on the S4 you might be able to install the scroller on a 3" or even 5" gel extender. This will take some experimenting to make sure that the extender doesn't cut off part of the beam (especially in a 36 or 50 degree light) and also that it doesn't move the gel string into a "hotter" convergence point of the beam. More important than anything, make sure that everything is secured well.
 

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