Orchestra Shell Instrument Refit Suggestions

Chris Chapman

Active Member
Our Orchestra Shell has 15 Future Light FL1000's built in. I'm looking at retrofitting an LED solution. Anyone have any experience with this? The opening is 10 5/8" x 13 1/2", and is 5 1/4" deep. I was thinking something along the line of Blizzard Roxbox. I need a fairly inexpensive LED head to try to keep the project cost under $5K. Any other suggestions besides the Blizzard fixtures?
 
How important is dimming to you, especially that last 10%? If dimming is lower priority, consider the Kreios FLx. You'll have to fuss with mounting but at under $400 unit, hard to beat for good white LED light. Very even and wide beam. The admin folks hear tested LEDs at a trade show for white - unofficially of course - and this was a top rated unit. https://www.controlbooth.com/threads/the-highest-cri-led-fixture-at-usitt.37551/#post-325313

Thanks Bill. Low end dimming isn't an issue for this install. I'm seeing Rox Boxs as low as $295 though...
 
Where are you finding rokboxes that low, if I might thread jack a bit...?
 
I have not seen the HotBox. This was quick so could be wrong but by my calculations show the HotBox is half the illuminance (more like 40%) of the Kreios, based on their data sheet (3260 lux at 2m and a 26 degree beam angle). Roughly 2000 lumens versus 5000. I don't know how high your shell plays, but the 25 degree beam angle seems likely to result in a very uneven lighting, compared to the Futurelight and Kreios - both more like 90 degree beam versus 25 degree. Sure you can frost the heck out of it but loose more light. Or at 18-20' (6m) your around 35 fc center of an 8' diameter spot on the floor. I'm just saying you need to do the photometrics to see but I suspect 1 for 1 with the 1K Future light - which I use to specify a lot of - do not be surprised if not nearly as bright and even.

Just saying, you don't get something for nothing. This all tracks with the wattage - 56 vs 90 - and you do get decent dimming to around 10% or less with the Kreios on your existing dimmer(s). Of course you get color and dimming if you change to constant power and add data - wired or wirelessly.
 
The specs on the Hotbox list the max ambient temp at 104 degrees. If mounted near other conventional lighting, that may be an issue. The Kreios fixtures are designed for a hardened environment.
 
I have not seen the HotBox. This was quick so could be wrong but by my calculations show the HotBox is half the illuminance (more like 40%) of the Kreios, based on their data sheet (3260 lux at 2m and a 26 degree beam angle). Roughly 2000 lumens versus 5000. I don't know how high your shell plays, but the 25 degree beam angle seems likely to result in a very uneven lighting, compared to the Futurelight and Kreios - both more like 90 degree beam versus 25 degree. Sure you can frost the heck out of it but loose more light. Or at 18-20' (6m) your around 35 fc center of an 8' diameter spot on the floor. I'm just saying you need to do the photometrics to see but I suspect 1 for 1 with the 1K Future light - which I use to specify a lot of - do not be surprised if not nearly as bright and even.

Just saying, you don't get something for nothing. This all tracks with the wattage - 56 vs 90 - and you do get decent dimming to around 10% or less with the Kreios on your existing dimmer(s). Of course you get color and dimming if you change to constant power and add data - wired or wirelessly.

I hadn't started to dig through photometrics yet. This is a huge help, Bill. Thanks!
 
Ah! Hotbox is the younger cousin to Rokbox. I've got Rokboxes and can vouch for them, but be wary of Blizzard's icicle wireless DMX. It can destroy the fixture if you use DMX cable with pin 1 grounded to the chassis since it sends 5 VDC through the connector to drive their proprietary dongle. Not sure if that's a feature on the hotbox.

I can also say the Rokbox has a surprisingly wide and even beam for a fixture of its class and can cut through our conventional frontwash. I use them as downlight right now so that might be another option for you.
 
The Rokbox is near 2.5 times the wattage of the HotBox so sure to be brighter.

I know it's more but I'm using the ColorSource PAR in shells now. One circuit per ceiling section. Last one I ran DMX cable to but will consider the ColorSource wireless relays in the future. In the OPs case you could drop a single constant circuit and repurpose the dimmed circuits.
 
The Rokbox is near 2.5 times the wattage of the HotBox so sure to be brighter.

I know it's more but I'm using the ColorSource PAR in shells now. One circuit per ceiling section. Last one I ran DMX cable to but will consider the ColorSource wireless relays in the future. In the OPs case you could drop a single constant circuit and repurpose the dimmed circuits.


That's what I've been doing as a roll in LUSTR+'s and more VIVID's into the space.
 
Ah! Hotbox is the younger cousin to Rokbox. I've got Rokboxes and can vouch for them, but be wary of Blizzard's icicle wireless DMX. It can destroy the fixture if you use DMX cable with pin 1 grounded to the chassis since it sends 5 VDC through the connector to drive their proprietary dongle. Not sure if that's a feature on the hotbox.

I can also say the Rokbox has a surprisingly wide and even beam for a fixture of its class and can cut through our conventional frontwash. I use them as downlight right now so that might be another option for you.

I'm not in a place where I trust Wireless DMX yet. For devices that are 100% show reliant, I want a cable send.
 
All LED instruments are designed to work in free air for heat dissapation. If you mount them in a five sided box, they will cook themselves. The result will be reduced output and a short lifespan. At the very least, test one before buying a flock of them.
 

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