Road Box?

I know this is an old thread but I have a question about a Road Box I'd like to build. The reason I'd like to build one instead of buy one is the customization and the fact that shipping would be expensive.

Basically I'm looking to build an Electrics work box for my own personal use. I'd like it to be able to store Plugs, Soldering Iron, Some Reference books, A C-Wrench with attached Leash. A multi-driver kit, hammer, Gel swatches, a space for gel tubes, and a bit more but those things i could add on as an add need basis.

I'm looking basicly for plans to build my own, I have access to everything from MIG welders to stick welders, Plasma cutters and metal saws, as well as your standard woodworking tools such as table saw, Swing arm saw (term escapes me at this time), as well as circ saws and drills.

My basic requirements would be to be on wheels as well as have handles and be able to be roughed up a bit (thinking of using 3/4" ply) I'd Like it between 3' and 4' tall... but size could be fudged a bit.

Thanks for any insight or info you can give,
Jordan
 
I know this is an old thread but I have a question about a Road Box I'd like to build. The reason I'd like to build one instead of buy one is the customization and the fact that shipping would be expensive.
Basically I'm looking to build an Electrics work box for my own personal use. I'd like it to be able to store Plugs, Soldering Iron, Some Reference books, A C-Wrench with attached Leash. A multi-driver kit, hammer, Gel swatches, a space for gel tubes, and a bit more but those things i could add on as an add need basis.

I'm looking basicly for plans to build my own, I have access to everything from MIG welders to stick welders, Plasma cutters and metal saws, as well as your standard woodworking tools such as table saw, Swing arm saw (term escapes me at this time), as well as circ saws and drills.

My basic requirements would be to be on wheels as well as have handles and be able to be roughed up a bit (thinking of using 3/4" ply) I'd Like it between 3' and 4' tall... but size could be fudged a bit.

Thanks for any insight or info you can give,
Jordan

Whatever you do, build it into a standard quarter pack, third pack, whatever, footprint, so it'll fit into whatever else is going on the truck. Nothing worse than an odd sized case that causes problems.
 
Whatever you do, build it into a standard quarter pack, third pack, whatever, footprint, so it'll fit into whatever else is going on the truck. Nothing worse than an odd sized case that causes problems.

What size would those be?

The most I've had experience with road cases is moving to and from a truck as well as moving around in a theater. (road cases from the truck were from a production company and I only saw them for about 10 hours with no time to really check them out.)
 
What size would those be?

The most I've had experience with road cases is moving to and from a truck as well as moving around in a theater. (road cases from the truck were from a production company and I only saw them for about 10 hours with no time to really check them out.)

A truck is 100" wide. So, most cases are either 23" wide, 31" wide, or 47" wide or there abouts. Therefore, you can always fit 2 wide, 3 wide, or 4 wide without causing loading issues. Many cases are quarter pack one direction and half pack or third pack the other direction.

With all that discussion of trucking... I have seen more road cases left at theatres after a season then I can count. In a world that you could be working on one cost one day and the other coast the next, road cases quickly come impractical. Unless you have a shop job where you are sent out to different shows with a truck that is from your shop, work boxes can be impractical. As a freelancer, a pelican case that can be checked is about as far as you want to go. Also, be sure to keep it under that 50# limit. I'm still in bags with all my stuff and will be for the forseable future. I can throw it all in the car. I don't have to worry about trucking it or what happens to it when I'm not around.

Added to that, many companies that put together tours will have a work box that you can load into for the duration of that run.
 
A truck is 100" wide. So, most cases are either 23" wide, 31" wide, or 47" wide or there abouts. Therefore, you can always fit 2 wide, 3 wide, or 4 wide without causing loading issues. Many cases are quarter pack one direction and half pack or third pack the other direction.

With all that discussion of trucking... I have seen more road cases left at theatres after a season then I can count. In a world that you could be working on one cost one day and the other coast the next, road cases quickly come impractical. Unless you have a shop job where you are sent out to different shows with a truck that is from your shop, work boxes can be impractical. As a freelancer, a pelican case that can be checked is about as far as you want to go. Also, be sure to keep it under that 50# limit. I'm still in bags with all my stuff and will be for the forseable future. I can throw it all in the car. I don't have to worry about trucking it or what happens to it when I'm not around.

Added to that, many companies that put together tours will have a work box that you can load into for the duration of that run.


This is more for local stuff (if i was planning on going somewhere i have access to flight cases i would use for the stuff that had to be in cases). My thought process on this is I want something a little more rugged to put in the back of my pickup to haul my stuff as well as something to store a lot of it in the garage between the times working at the local area places. Since Its the only gear I'd be hauling its very unlikely to get lost in the fray (as well as being painted by an artistic friend, She already told me she wanted to put some artwork on it).

The truck thing is interesting but I don't for see this coming on the road with me, just as my own way to organize/store it all. My goal with this is to have something I can take with me to some local High schools when I do design work for them.
 
That's going to get heavy really fast. How do you intend on getting it in/out of your truck? There are several places that you can purchase the flight case hardware and you can even purchase the plywood already laminated with plastic.
 
This is more for local stuff ... a little more rugged to put in the back of my pickup

If you don't have a cap, I'd seriously re-think that idea. Rain? Snow?

I'd get those side storage compartments that build up from the sides of the bed. A road case flopping around in the back seems like an accident waiting to happen.
 
I've got a cap and tie downs as well as pick points. And if I had something that built up the sides of the bed that isn't portable now is it? Maybe 3/4" is a little thick for the whole thing but I'm asking for ideas. I want to stay away from a lot of the pre-built cases for custability reasons hardware such as casters, handles and bump corners are fine but pre assembled sides are not.

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Building a work trunk with ball-bearing drawers is EXTREMELY difficult. Basically the general rule with roadcase builders I know is that if you don't have a CNC machine, dont bother trying to make drawers with slide rails. It can be done, but is extremely difficult. Here is a picture of my shops first (and probably LAST haha) attempt at building drawers into roadcases. It was an absolute pain in the ass to get it done even close to perfect. This was near the end stages of the build, and we have 8 of these. Adding drawers probably added 4 days to the overall build of these (interactive kiosk) roadcases.

Picture 1.png

I have seen alternative drawer options, but the slides really add a professional feel. I was warned about work trunk drawers in the past, and really ALL roadcases are extremely difficult to build if you dont have the right tools. It takes TIME to figure it all out. That's my roadcase master right there Mr. Koji, it's definitely a full-time job figuring out the dimensions, accounting for extrusion thickness, handle/latch size/placement, caster dish offset, piano hinge, etc. When you get good at it's great fun (Koji loves it!) but when you first start out you'll want to slit your wrists.

The two best (in my opinion) companies to purchase roadcase hardware from are Penn Elcom (first choice) and TCH in Buffalo/Niagara. They both have websites online you can browse and pick hardware. The hardware is cheap, but it adds up FAST. Penn/Elcom is located in Dallas, NJ, and LA I believe. Also in Europe.

BTW, the standard touring grade roadcase ply is 1/2". If you were to use 3/4" it would be EXTREMELY heavy. I don't even think P/E or TCH sells 3/4" hardware, but I could be wrong.

I have a roadcase construction business that solely builds cases for my touring productions (we dont sell cases to outside people/companies), so ask away if you have any questions!
 
Building a work trunk with ball-bearing drawers is EXTREMELY difficult. Basically the general rule with roadcase builders I know is that if you don't have a CNC machine, dont bother trying to make drawers with slide rails. It can be done, but is extremely difficult. Here is a picture of my shops first (and probably LAST haha) attempt at building drawers into roadcases. It was an absolute pain in the ass to get it done even close to perfect. This was near the end stages of the build, and we have 8 of these. Adding drawers probably added 4 days to the overall build of these (interactive kiosk) roadcases.

View attachment 4749

I have seen alternative drawer options, but the slides really add a professional feel. I was warned about work trunk drawers in the past, and really ALL roadcases are extremely difficult to build if you dont have the right tools. It takes TIME to figure it all out. That's my roadcase master right there Mr. Koji, it's definitely a full-time job figuring out the dimensions, accounting for extrusion thickness, handle/latch size/placement, caster dish offset, piano hinge, etc. When you get good at it's great fun (Koji loves it!) but when you first start out you'll want to slit your wrists.

The two best (in my opinion) companies to purchase roadcase hardware from are Penn Elcom (first choice) and TCH in Buffalo/Niagara. They both have websites online you can browse and pick hardware. The hardware is cheap, but it adds up FAST. Penn/Elcom is located in Dallas, NJ, and LA I believe. Also in Europe.

BTW, the standard touring grade roadcase ply is 1/2". If you were to use 3/4" it would be EXTREMELY heavy. I don't even think P/E or TCH sells 3/4" hardware, but I could be wrong.

I have a roadcase construction business that solely builds cases for my touring productions (we dont sell cases to outside people/companies), so ask away if you have any questions!


Thanks, My step brother builds cabinets and other things with sliding drawers and other woodworking stuff so I'm sure he could help me out a bit. I'm thinking 1/2" is probably what I'll use since after doing a bit more research I came to that same conclusion. I'm sure I'll have more questions once it gets past the quote phase of my project. I'm just right now trying to figure out what I need and what I can live without.
 
Tool carrying devices all depend on the gig.. Tour wise I have my work box that usually comes with me. Quarter size footprint with a 5 drawers and a workbench top. Works great from the obnoxious amount of spare parts and tools that always seem to end up being used when your six or seven shows in with the end no where near in sight. If its just a local call and im not rigging, my pouch with c-wrench, leatherman, dikes, and mini mag; plus the ever present knife and sharpie in the pocket. If thats not enough, the tour should have it for you.

For those looking to build a case, my personal 2 cents is to just have it built. Chances are its going to end up costing you the same to do it yourself anyways. I get all my cases built by one local company and know I can rely on him to maintain them as well. Plus I know I dont need to worry about waste from screwing something up and that they will always come out in truck friendly sizes. Another good bet? avoid plain looking cases that are small. I started in HS with painting my sheep on everything and getting obnoxious colors for my cases, and it lives on today. All my cases are either neon green or pink with a big ol black sheep plastered on the side. Not such a big deal with large cases, but I never heard of a small neon colored case that doesnt blend in being stolen...just saying..
 
My two cents. You don't have THAT much to carry. You really don't, at least based on what you told us. A box with internal dimensions of 24x36 (probably 25x37) that comes to your waist height or 36 inches with a flat top and shelving or organization inside would serve several purposes. It can easily be transported on a truck with a liftgate, can hold WAY more than you are saying you need to carry, and can be used as a rolling table to hold a full 24x36 light plot.

However, even using lightweight construction techniques, meaning blue insulation foam, 1/4inch ply and Lauan (when done correctly, surprisingly lightweight and strong); you will need more than one person to load it into even a low pick up truck bed. As I, and my friend who is one of the couple people in Philly who everyone calls when they need a good electrician/TD, have found out the hard way, having quite a few varying size bags that you can pack everything your need for a specific job into combined with quite a few pre-packed smaller bags that never change contents may work better if you aren't traveling cross country. His box hasn't moved from the trap room of my theater since he built it there. And he has only changed the position of it there once, and only because we realized it was better standing next to the dimmer racks than in its original position. The other box in the city that is quasi his has also never moved since it was put there. The worst part of all? Anything in either of those boxes that is used by either company shouldn't be owned by him, but rather by those companies (in all fairness, one company did buy most of the contents of the one box... it wasn't mine).

So do you really need a "touring" case/box?
 
My two cents. You don't have THAT much to carry. You really don't, at least based on what you told us. A box with internal dimensions of 24x36 (probably 25x37) that comes to your waist height or 36 inches with a flat top and shelving or organization inside would serve several purposes. It can easily be transported on a truck with a liftgate, can hold WAY more than you are saying you need to carry, and can be used as a rolling table to hold a full 24x36 light plot.

However, even using lightweight construction techniques, meaning blue insulation foam, 1/4inch ply and Lauan (when done correctly, surprisingly lightweight and strong); you will need more than one person to load it into even a low pick up truck bed. As I, and my friend who is one of the couple people in Philly who everyone calls when they need a good electrician/TD, have found out the hard way, having quite a few varying size bags that you can pack everything your need for a specific job into combined with quite a few pre-packed smaller bags that never change contents may work better if you aren't traveling cross country. His box hasn't moved from the trap room of my theater since he built it there. And he has only changed the position of it there once, and only because we realized it was better standing next to the dimmer racks than in its original position. The other box in the city that is quasi his has also never moved since it was put there. The worst part of all? Anything in either of those boxes that is used by either company shouldn't be owned by him, but rather by those companies (in all fairness, one company did buy most of the contents of the one box... it wasn't mine).

So do you really need a "touring" case/box?

I guess i should have added to it that i want it to also be a work box for repairing instruments, I forgot in most places the LD isn't the one working on equipment and its the Head Elecs job but i find in most places I work I end up being the ME, HE and LD. so storage for extra C-clamps, Safeties, and other small items is what i'm looking to do with this.
 
Considering that each C-Clamp weighs about 2.5lbs and costs $15, each Stage Pin connector costs about $5.50 and a box of ten weighs a few pounds, each replacement base for an instrument costs about $25, Lamps average about $17, etc.... do you begin to understand why I am cautioning you against taking on carrying all this around? It begins to get heavy real quick like and expensive even more quickly. Each venue should have a space and the money for the basics to keep their equipment maintained. If you are working in one that doesn't, first push a little bit to see if you can get the money and space to keep the necessities in stock and readily available. You'd be surprised how much you can get done by saying the $xn,zab expensive lighting rig is going to be useless without the investment in basic items, or by quoting them a price on a replacement unit versus replacement parts for one.

Additionally, if you are working for a company that is renting a space, they should be purchasing anything that is being used and is expendable. Not you.
 
I know this is an old thread but I have a question about a Road Box I'd like to build. The reason I'd like to build one instead of buy one is the customization and the fact that shipping would be expensive.

Basically I'm looking to build an Electrics work box for my own personal use. I'd like it to be able to store Plugs, Soldering Iron, Some Reference books, A C-Wrench with attached Leash. A multi-driver kit, hammer, Gel swatches, a space for gel tubes, and a bit more but those things i could add on as an add need basis.

I'm looking basicly for plans to build my own, I have access to everything from MIG welders to stick welders, Plasma cutters and metal saws, as well as your standard woodworking tools such as table saw, Swing arm saw (term escapes me at this time), as well as circ saws and drills.

My basic requirements would be to be on wheels as well as have handles and be able to be roughed up a bit (thinking of using 3/4" ply) I'd Like it between 3' and 4' tall... but size could be fudged a bit.

Thanks for any insight or info you can give,
Jordan

Couple things I have found useful in the workboxes we have designed and built are to have one side or an area that is a larger 'project area'--at about table height or stool height...something that can be big enough for a fixture and the area can have a stool or chair pulled up to it to work at. A small but solid hidden pull out shelf on rollers directly under this area adds to the 'workspace' which makes it great for repairs and sorting. This larger space is the area that can have a small hanging pipe for fixtures to be worked on or secured to so they don't fall over and off...a plug in light source--rope light or inky's or whatever..and have your main quad box for power for chargers or a radio or power tools etc. The quad box mounted inside runs to flushmount recessed outlet on the outside of your box that takes an extension cord. Now--a few fun ideas to tweak those--for one of our pull out shelves is we lined the surface of the work shelf with 30 mil PVC magnetic sheeting, so when we have something disassembled the little screws 'stick' to the surface better instead of just go rolling off when bumped. The PVC part adds traction too so solder stations & helping hands don't slide around a ton like the do on wood etc. You can also line a drawer for your handtools with some of this stuff too so they don't; roll around a ton..works best for socket sets that may be loose. The magnetic pull isn't huge but every little bit helps... Another tweek which is a catch22--for power use a flushmount recessed twist lock connector on the outside (no dangle cable)...and carry the extension cable with the twistlock on one side and a regular wall plug on the other--about a 20 footer...so you just connect it when you arrive to begin your work to charge batteries etc. Keeps your cable from being kicked out from your box end..and the other idea being if someone needs an extension cord they can't go unplugging your cable to run it somewhere else for their power and suddenly your cable ends up on someone elses rack cause one end is twistlock. But the catch 22 there is if you break, lose or forget the cable you can't power your box til you make a new one... I would also suggest you have one drawer or area that is lockable when the box is open..for the expensive toys like testers, meters, parts--things you don't wanna walk or personal items you need to store etc. Also--it adds weight but if you are gonna move this box around and in and out of a pickup etc--double line the bottom...two layers of ply so you can fully bolt thru your casters. It helps eliminate bowing and bending.. That extra weight at the bottom also helps when you pull out drawers so the box doesn't wanna tip forward being front heavy etc. You may also wish to consider ways to secure the drawers during transport--but that is depending on your design--whether it has doors, drop ins or is a clamshell or half clam etc etc. Lots more to think about but thats a few ideas that perhaps will help you out.... Enjoy--building and designing your own toy box is always a fun project.


-w
 
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So job status has changed and I am working at a local space. I am still looking into building a workbox or having one built for the space. Its a convention center/Arena space where working on equipment would be better done around the site. We are currently trying to find a way to store gel, gobos, lamps (HPL 575, and medium screwbase Par 38s) as well as the tools such as multi-meter, soldering iron, Laptop, Side cutters, wire strippers, your basic electricians kit but all in one box. Since it is a convention center space and needs to be mobile 100% of the time.

I was doing some research and came across this box.
productiobox_1.JPG

I'm thinking of building this either on my own or getting it built. It would be a personal box, but used at the space since I'm a full time staff member, and they are going to be expanding. Not to mention I will be going out on tour in the next 2 years.
 
At college we had a couple of those, wooden and cleanly built so I don't know if they were bought or shop made. But they were great. They primarily used them as secure prop boxes. If you put doors on not sides you could have it broken up better for larger stuff.


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How much are you thinking of spending on this project? Most road houses have an abundance of cases that they sell off as road boxes/work boxes, and the vast majority of touring/bway guys just buy one of these and customize the heck out of it. I'm basing this mostly from PRG and not as much from the other NY shops, but the biggest is generally the big unit cases they send out that are about 7' tall by 4' wide and 3' deep or so. Most guys install a 5-15 inlet on the outside of the case so that they can power battery chargers, laptops, lights, radios, or whatever else on the inside. One PE I work with a lot just built simple wooden shelves into his, while another guy has really nice metal-lined shelves that slide on tracks and can each lock individually. The other common size is the VL mod rack size, which is about 4' tall and maybe 3' square. Most of the Head Elecs and other non-PEs I know have something like this - it still has plenty of room for expendables and such, but it only weighs in at a few hundred pounds fully loaded.

Also, if you buy a road box from PRG, they'll also store it at their facility for you, which is super convenient - when your show is in the shop, just put your box's bar code number on the shop order and they'll get it out of storage and have it ready in the prep area/on the dock for you, so you're not trying to shove your 800-pound workbox into the back of a pickup to get it to the shop. They keep it in a special, extremely secure area of the building so there's no danger at all of someone breaking in to your box or anything like that. Of course, building your own may still be cheaper and easier for you, but especially if you plan to go out on tour, you'll want something that can pack easily onto the truck and that you're okay with getting really banged up - those work boxes take a TON of abuse.
 

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