setting up a costume shop

peacefulone61

Active Member
I have been asked by the school I work at to set up a costume shop. I was looking for suggestions on sewing machines and other equipment that I should have on hand. Thank you for any help that you can offer
 
Can you tell us a bit more about the program? About how many shows a year, rough budgets, size of staff, available space for the shop and storrage.....Any other pertinent info???
 
Hello it is a small private high school with a director, and a technical director. A normal season consists of two shows one play and one musical. There is an ad junk designer who was hired in to handle costumes on a show by show basis. The room that we are converting is an old office it is approximately 12' x 12' I would like to have a sewing machine and other suppliers. Costume storage is handled off-site and non-climate controlled trailers. There is no budget for costumes, it is taken out of the technical direction budget. I would like to get a sewing machine for between 300 and $500. In approximately another $300 on basic supplies. I have taken a few courses in costume designing but it is been a while but his why I was looking for guidance thank you
 
Hello it is a small private high school with a director, and a technical director. A normal season consists of two shows one play and one musical. There is an ad junk designer who was hired in to handle costumes on a show by show basis. The room that we are converting is an old office it is approximately 12' x 12' I would like to have a sewing machine and other suppliers. Costume storage is handled off-site and non-climate controlled trailers. There is no budget for costumes, it is taken out of the technical direction budget. I would like to get a sewing machine for between 300 and $500. In approximately another $300 on basic supplies. I have taken a few courses in costume designing but it is been a while but his why I was looking for guidance thank you

In choosing a sewing machine, there are a couple things you have to consider. What materials will you be working with? Sewing some things like leather and suede require a heartier machine than more standard materials do. Also, do you care about the extra things like different stitch shapes and more advance embroidering capabilities? I would also pretty strongly recommend that you pick up a serger. Even one of the $180-$200 price range ones would be fine. Also, make sure you have a good iron and a good ironing table/board. Look at gravity feed commercial irons. You should be able to get one for around $150 and they are waaaay better than your standard home grade units. Maybe a residential-grade garment steamer too depending on how long your runs are and what sorts of costumes you would be working with.
 
Also make sure you have a pretty solid work surface to put your machines on. You could pretty easily build this out of 2x4s and a thick press board which is what I tend to see in commercial shops. You'll want a second table with a thin layer of padding covered in muslin (also easily built by someone with basic carpentry and staple gun skills) for measuring, cutting, hand stitching, etc
 
Thank you for all the information this will help make it easier as i am putting together a proposal for equipment.

Are there any recommendations on brands of machines people have had success with?

I am not sure what materials we will be working with If I can swing it though i am going to try and get a more heavy duty machine for the shop.

I do not think at the start i would need all of the stitching patterns and embroiders. The shop after receiving clarification from my department head will be more of a support shop for mending and basic instruction of students but not for the bulk of building.
 
DON'T get and industrial machine. I don't care what people tell you, don't do it. Unless the person who is actually going to be running the machine wants and industrial machine do not get one. I have been to way to many costume shops in academia that have an industrial machine that collects dust because people can't use it correctly. They are too powerful and too fast for the amateur sewer and way too much for the beginner. Get a machine with a good straight stitch. Don't worry about fancy types of stitches... you will never use them. I would suggest going to your local fabric/crafts shop and talking to someone there about what they have and what they can fix when it breaks. You need a fairly heavy duty machine just due to wear. Tell the people how often you will be using it and they will be able to point you in the right direction. Also, buy a surger as others have said. One added thing... get external thread spools for all of your machines.

Buy a good supply of hand needles/pins/and whatever else. GOOD sheers and tailor points will go a long way (Gingher is way to go here). As far as the other stuff such as closures and all that gack (known as "findings") that will come with time. There is no point in going out and buying a ton of stuff that you don't need. Buy that type of stuff as you need it and you will build up and inventory over time. The only odd ball thread I would suggest is Silamide. It is a very strong thread that is great for sewing on buttons.

And for anything wardrobe specific that you could ever need (including bite lites) Manhattan Wardrobe Supply - Shop for Wardrobe & Theater Supplies
 
I agree with much of what has been said. Get a good sewing machine without all the gack. But you will need a machine that can do a zigzig and button holes. Singer, Brother, Bernina and Sears Kenmore all make decent machines at fair prices. You will also need a good serger or overlock machine, at least four thread machine would be best and the same brands as the sewing machines are good. A jiffy steamer is necessary as well as a good quality steam iron. Invest in some good quality fabric scissors, Ginghers are great, and the better Fiskars too. You will need a nice size cutting table to lay out the fabric and patterns. The Silamide was a good suggestion too. Tape measures, pins, lots of thread, rotary cutter and pad, fabric and notions storage, dress forms, etc. Good luck.
 
Make sure the room has plenty of light. Some sort of rack will be needed to hang the finished and unfinished costumes.

As stupid as this sounds, make sure the sewing machine users are trained and have a first aid kit handy. (Even with training, my daughter managed to run the sewing machine needle through her finger, breaking the needle off in the process. Made for a pleasant emergency room visit.)

Joe
 
Yes dont forget the serger, or overlock machine. Being married to a costume designer, I have been informed that is essental! Make sure to have a good iron and board, also, very important. A good cutting table at an appropriate height so that one who is cutting is not bending over all day. and If budget allows, a dress form is very handy to have.
 
Yes dont forget the serger, or overlock machine. Being married to a costume designer, I have been informed that is essental! Make sure to have a good iron and board, also, very important. A good cutting table at an appropriate height so that one who is cutting is not bending over all day. and If budget allows, a dress form is very handy to have.


NO ironing is horrible on costumes it makes the fabric shiny, if you ever have to iron anything make sure you either have a moist cloth between the iron and the piece or use a steamer instead. the worst thing you can do to a costume piece is use an iron on it because the theater lights will make it look metallic.
 
NO ironing is horrible on costumes it makes the fabric shiny, if you ever have to iron anything make sure you either have a moist cloth between the iron and the piece or use a steamer instead. the worst thing you can do to a costume piece is use an iron on it because the theater lights will make it look metallic.

You still need an iron as they are used in several different steps of the production process. For example there is no way to press a crease into a piece of fabric's edge before sewing if you don't have an iron. The only serious costume person that I know (dozens of broadway costume construction credits and professor at a major conservatory program) uses a piece of dry muslin between the iron and whatever he is ironing although he obviously uses a steamer for tasks for which that is the correct tool.

To the OP, I also want to echo someone else's comment about storage. Good storage is really critical. Make sure there is tons and tons of well thought out storage for small items. Also make sure you don't get cheap plastic cabinets or something else that is going to break after a few months. If you can't afford a durable professionally made option, you are better off buying lumber and building something in the scene shop that will actually hold up.
 
NO ironing is horrible on costumes it makes the fabric shiny, if you ever have to iron anything make sure you either have a moist cloth between the iron and the piece or use a steamer instead. the worst thing you can do to a costume piece is use an iron on it because the theater lights will make it look metallic.

With the numerous shows I have built and wardrobe supervised this has never come up. Yes, there are some fabrics that should be steamed instead of presses but that is rare. Without an iron, you could not build or tailor a good looking costume.
 
I used to work in a costume shop a long time ago. We had to have at least 1 industrial sewing machine. I highly suggest that.
 
I have just bought an industrial Gravity Feed Iron from Wawak in Atlanta. The entire Set up was $109.00, and will last you many, many years. They also have foam dress forms for $139.00.
I would look for a sewing machine at your local goodwill or at yard sales. Take it to your local sewing machine shop and have it maintained. Used machines have been a blessing in my shops where I have different levels of experience. I agree that for a high school shop you should stay away from industrial sewing machines.

Good luck.
 

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