Source Four Help and Light Tree

[Pav636]

Hi GuysSO I recently bought a few used S4's they are all 50degrees and when I recieved one of them the reflector was peeling inside. See picture. So to order a new one the prices I fround are around $100. (What can be causing this to happen) and how easy is it to change one of these out?I also have talked to multiple people and they have all said they will never buy used S4 from anyone as most are beat to death especially by rental houses. SO my question is do you guys recommend any places which has used S4 for a good price? as I do not want to dish out $400 for a new S4. Also if you guys can help me know what is the cheapest please to buy them new?I am also trying to build a light tree and I have most pipes but I need a strong base. The only one I found was from Sacramento theatrical lighting and its called their strapoini base 66lb which is about 24". I am going to have a 10' pole with a 4' cross bar to mount 4 S4's on there. DO you guys have any recommendation for a cheaper alternative for the bases?Thanks,-P

 

[Les]

Buying used lighting online is always a risk, so make sure to ask any questions you have about the condition of the item prior to the sale. When you buy from a company like UsedLighting, Solaris Network, GearSource or Light Broker, you usually get some sort of warranty as well (non-DOA, 30-day, etc). I really don't see anything wrong with buying used lighting as long as you are aware of the risks and do everything you can to minimize them (like buying from one of the dealers above).

Chipping or peeling reflectors are common on well-used Source Fours. It doesn't mean they were abused, it just means they have had a good long life. Replace them, and they're like new again.

Worn out shutters, sockets, etc are about the only other issues you can have as they are common-wear parts. When you buy a lighting instrument used, EXPECT to have to replace these things, and be thankful if it turns out that you don't have to. Now, I would probably pass on a Source Four with a peeling reflector or cracked lens(es), so be sure to ask those questions prior to your purchase. Anything else wrong with the instrument can be handled with minimal labor or money involved.

 

[avkid]

Most of ours came from eBay: AV Equipment Liquidators .
Various parts also came from BML Blackbird and PRG.

 

[bishopthomas]

AV For Sale is a great eBay supplier. I also buy S4's from 4 Wall. They are advertised as used on usedlighting.com, but I have received a few that were brand new. I think it just depends on whatever is more convenient for them to pull. I've bought truss from them the same way, paid used price and they gave me new sticks.

 

[derekleffew]

For new: Pricing- "How much does a _____ cost?" - ControlBooth , Dealers for Supplies and Equipment - ControlBooth
For used: Sources for Used Equipment - ControlBooth

... Worn out shutters, sockets, etc are about the only other issues you can have as they are common-wear parts. When you buy a lighting instrument used, EXPECT to have to replace these things, and be thankful if it turns out that you don't have to. Now, I would probably pass on a Source Four with a peeling reflector or cracked lens(es), so be sure to ask those questions prior to your purchase. Anything else wrong with the instrument can be handled with minimal labor or money involved.

Replacing the TP22H socket is probably the most common need. (See http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/...6-repairing-source-four-end-caps-burners.html . Many more threads can be found using the search.) Worn out shutters probably the least common. Lenses and reflectors are ridiculously expensive, but not that difficult to replace. (See http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/8981-reflector-removal.html .) So not a deal-breaker, but something that should be considered in the asking price of a used unit. The larger houses: PRG, 4Wall, etc., usually replace fixtures long before they exhibit any problems whatsoever.

 

[Pav636]

Thanks for all the inputs I will give it a shot. As far as the light tree bases any options guys? remember its going to have a 10' pole and 4 S4 on there.

-Pavan

 

[derekleffew]

Sorry, I forgot to address your boom base issue. There's the Altman B-50 50 Lb. Cast Iron Base 22-3/8" Dia.pdf, or the SSRC 50 BB Square boom base.pdf. $100 is not terribly unreasonable--it costs a lot to get the raw materials delivered. Perhaps you have a welder friend nearby? A coupler for 1.5" ID (1.90" OD) pipe, welded onto a suitable weighted base. I believe we recently had a thread where a steel truck wheel rim was mentioned: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/18386-building-lighting-boom-light-tree.html .

 

[Pav636]

Also why would my gobo pictured in my first post show up like that blurry and ghosting?

 

[bishopthomas]

There's the good old fashioned pipe/base as Derek mentioned. Or you could buy the base plate BML sells that is made for truss but also accepts pipe. Or go the crankup style lie an Applied L11 that allows rigging T bars and adjustable heights.

 

[JohnD]

Another possible source for a boom base is a local industrial supply house, like Granger or McMaster. Look for a floor fan base. If you can find one locally you will save a lot on shipping.
As for replacement parts my go to online site is PNTA. ETC Reflector | Stage & Theatre Lighting Equipment & Supplies | PNTA
Your best bet of course is to check with a local supply house, always good to have a relationship with a local company.

 

[josh88]

Also why would my gobo pictured in my first post show up like that blurry and ghosting?

you just need to focus it to a harder edge, run the barrel until you find the crispness you want. Alternatively ETC makes the EDLT lens (Enhanced Definition Lens Tube) that would give you better clarity but of course thats another purchase.

ETC | Explore the Source Four | EDLT

 

[gafftapegreenia]

And if after running the barrel to a hard edge focus, you find that there is still some fuzz on the edges, a donut may also help.

 

[Pav636]

Thanks guys. I do not think the altman base will be sturdy enough for a 10' pole with a 5' cross bar with 4 S4's as the base is only 19" around. That is why I wanted something bigger and sturdier. Have any of you used that base for this kind of a setup?

 

[chausman]

Thanks guys. I do not think the altman base will be sturdy enough for a 10' pole with a 5' cross bar with 4 S4's as the base is only 19" around. That is why I wanted something bigger and sturdier. Have any of you used that base for this kind of a setup?

We also add several stage weights/pigs to the base.

 

[gafftapegreenia]

Bases like that are used in such an application all the time. A reason I prefer the SSRC base is that it is much easier to put weights or sand bags on it.

From Altman you want the B-50 50 pound 22 3/8" base.

 

[Pav636]

What are the dimension on the SSrc base I think it looks cleaner then the altman especially because I am using these in the wedding seasons. I know they weight 50lb, but how long? Also where can I buy them?

You guys have stated that this is threaded. I have a major problem with threads being ripped apart, so is there a better alternative to use with these bases? or do you recommend threads?

 

[MPowers]

In use as a base for a light tree, a threaded coupling at the base is perfectly acceptable. That's why all the lighting manufacturers offer threaded connection boom bases. If you build you own you might want to go to a Kee Klamp type 60-8 as the base attachment but it is about 50% more expensive than a threaded flange.


If you are exposing you light tree to any forces that would break a pipe at a threaded coupling, you are loading and rigging your boom in a totally inappropriate manner. A 4' or 5' cross bar on a boom ( You said 4' in the first post and 5' later on) about the max width you want to go. How are you attaching your cross bar? On top with a Kee Klamp, across with a cross grid connector or Kee Klamp? At only 10' high, a 50# base is probably sufficient, however you can add sand bags on any base, pig weight on a flat base, most bases have holes in the edge to lag the base down if necessary and finally, you can drop a line from the grid to guy the boom off vertically. Note that the SSRC boom pipe has a forged eye at the top just for that purpose. The Light Source has an adapter to put a forged eye on top of a pipe. If you feel you pipe boom is not secure, Tie it off vertically. If you think there is any danger of your boom being impacted or bumped by actors, dancers or scenery, no boom base is large enough or heavy enough, tie it off to the grid.

 

[AEGProduction]

For weddings, I think the OP is worried about attendees to the wedding, or curious little kids running around touching things that they shouldn't. Usually in this scenario there is no way to tie off to the grid, and sometimes your forced to place the booms in locations that, while not in the walking path or doorways, can leave an uneasy feeling.

Personally I use Global Truss 2in Tubes with their bases and sandbags, never had an issue (The largest quantity of source 4's that I have ever put on a pole is 3 though). If you want to feel super safe, you can get a 30"x30" Aluminum base that you can fit loads of sandbags or other weights on, plus the width of the base is a great piece of mind. You might be able to use the base with your pipe as well, I have never tried to use anything other than global truss with it unfortunately.

 

[kicknargel]

Sorry, I forgot to address your boom base issue. There's the Altman B-50 50 Lb. Cast Iron Base 22-3/8" Dia.pdf, or the SSRC 50 BB Square boom base.pdf. $100 is not terribly unreasonable--it costs a lot to get the raw materials delivered. Perhaps you have a welder friend nearby? A coupler for 1.5" ID (1.90" OD) pipe, welded onto a suitable weighted base. I believe we recently had a thread where a steel truck wheel rim was mentioned: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/18386-building-lighting-boom-light-tree.html .

Derek, I need to take this rare opportunity to get all pedantic on you. 1.5" is the nominal dimension of the pipe but I don't believe it is the actual ID.

/hijack

 

[Van]

Derek, I need to take this rare opportunity to get all pedantic on you. 1.5" is the nominal dimension of the pipe but I don't believe it is the actual ID.

/hijack

I'll get even MORE pedantic. the ID is 1.61" the OD is 1.90 with a nominal thickness of .15" the thickness is 'Nominal' it CAN be off and it sometimes winds up with a 1.93-5 OD. When all is said and done however, the proper reference is 1.5" Scd40 pipe. When dealing with Youngun's , however, I think it's a good idea to be as clear as possible. I've seen more than once when a young TD went out and ordered a buttload of 2" pipe only to find it was too big for his lights....