Spot Light (1000Q) problems
- Thread starterlindseysellers
- Start date
I would guess the lamp must be aligned... The "Manual" for the fixture is not very helpful on this issue though...
Having not put my hands on one of these in quite a while, I am not exactly sure what the back end looks like, but there shoul be 3 set screws allowing you to adjust the filament placement within the reflector. One screw moves the X axis, one the Z Axis and one should allow you to move the lamp in and out of the reflector... Much like aligning an ellipsoidal.
Good luck!!!
Having not put my hands on one of these in quite a while, I am not exactly sure what the back end looks like, but there shoul be 3 set screws allowing you to adjust the filament placement within the reflector. One screw moves the X axis, one the Z Axis and one should allow you to move the lamp in and out of the reflector... Much like aligning an ellipsoidal.
Good luck!!!
Les
Well-Known Member
Actually, I don't recall any lamp alignment screws on a 1000Q. What I do know is that the frame the socket mounts to is designed to slide forward and backward within the reflector. It sounds like your lamp is positioned too far in or too far out of the reflector. The new lamp most likely has a different filament structure (LCL) than the previous lamp, causing this phenomenon. Especially if you didn't move anything to begin with.
What you will need to do is locate the reflector's set screws near the bottom of the inside if the fixture. They should be at the base of the reflector's support structure, right near the rails holding the rest of the components in place. You'll want to loosen these screws slightly, and move the reflector mount until you get the optimal beam. You will want to power down before you do this of course, and power back up to check it. Be sure to wear gloves. Usually the lamp is positioned so that the filament is right at the hole in the reflector, but it varies depending on which lamp you're using. Hopefully you won't need to remove the entire body of the fixture to do this, but it's possible that you may have to. If you do this, you will want to wear eye and skin protection if you power the light without the hood.
What you will need to do is locate the reflector's set screws near the bottom of the inside if the fixture. They should be at the base of the reflector's support structure, right near the rails holding the rest of the components in place. You'll want to loosen these screws slightly, and move the reflector mount until you get the optimal beam. You will want to power down before you do this of course, and power back up to check it. Be sure to wear gloves. Usually the lamp is positioned so that the filament is right at the hole in the reflector, but it varies depending on which lamp you're using. Hopefully you won't need to remove the entire body of the fixture to do this, but it's possible that you may have to. If you do this, you will want to wear eye and skin protection if you power the light without the hood.
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Les
Well-Known Member
Ah, no problem! I'll actually have to take a second look, myself. The only way I really recall this is because I have a 1000Q which is missing its rear nameplate in my music room. So when I'm at my keyboard working on music, I have a clear shot of the back of the lamp socket
. I really need to get that nameplate replaced.
Perhaps. Are you sure the FEL (or EHx, or GLx) is fully seated in the TP22 socket? One needs to sometimes exert more force than one would think, and it can be a scary proposition.
When properly installed, there should only be 1/8"-3/16" of the lamp's metal base above the TP22/TP220 socket. This will ensure that
1) the pins are making good contact, and
2) the filament and LCL are properly oriented in the reflector.
Further refinement of the lamp within the reflector are done as above, known as bench focus.
It can be tricky getting your hands in there and getting enough leverage on the lamp, especially if the lamp's base has welded itself into the socket, but it can be done.
See this thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/19571-altspot-1000-lamp-failure.html
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JD
Well-Known Member
Always found it easier to lift the whole housing off. I think there are only 4 screws. As Derek said, make sure the lamp is fully seated. Start by backing off the reflector screws so the reflector slides on the rail freely. Align the reflector so that the cutout for the lamp is about 1/4 inch behind the last filament winding. Don't look at the lamp when you turn it on, but look at the projected beam. Slide the reflector forward and backward until the beam is even. Turn it off and tighten the screws and replace the hood.
The one thing I always noticed is that the bulb ends up deeper in the reflector than one would think it should be, but that's where it works best.
You should wear safety goggles when doing this. Although the bulbs are nothing like xenon lamps in the "bang" category, you could still put your eye out with that thing!
The one thing I always noticed is that the bulb ends up deeper in the reflector than one would think it should be, but that's where it works best.
You should wear safety goggles when doing this. Although the bulbs are nothing like xenon lamps in the "bang" category, you could still put your eye out with that thing!
Les
Well-Known Member
So am I correct JD that the reflector is what moves; not the lamp socket? I updated my post to reflect this (no pun intended).
Word of caution on removing the housing: It's tricky. About 2/3 back on the outside of the fixture housing, there should be 2 screws -- one on each side. These hold in place a bezel which reduces flare (it should be between the internal lens and the boomerang). You will need to remove these screws and finagle the bezel out of its mounting position. Note that it is also held in place by the guide rails (which pass through holes in this bezel), so the entire thing will need to be shifted forward about 1/2". Otherwise, the hood is not going anywhere as the bottom opening will not clear this bezel. If moving it forward doesn't allow you the clearance to lift the body, I've found that the best thing is to try to turn the bezel sideways, which may take some effort as it is a tight fit. Then, you can lift it up through the access door and you are free to remove the body*.
*Sometimes the front lens needs to come out too, as this is also too wide to clear the bottom opening, and turning the whole thing sideways midway up isn't really an option (doesn't clear the rear components). To remove the front lens, you have to remove the nut at the lens end of the focus rod, followed by the four bolts underneath. It truly is kind of a pain. Hopefully you just have some really small hands and a short screwdriver. If anyone has another (better) solution, I'd love to hear it, as when I overhauled my 1000Q, I encountered these problems.
Word of caution on removing the housing: It's tricky. About 2/3 back on the outside of the fixture housing, there should be 2 screws -- one on each side. These hold in place a bezel which reduces flare (it should be between the internal lens and the boomerang). You will need to remove these screws and finagle the bezel out of its mounting position. Note that it is also held in place by the guide rails (which pass through holes in this bezel), so the entire thing will need to be shifted forward about 1/2". Otherwise, the hood is not going anywhere as the bottom opening will not clear this bezel. If moving it forward doesn't allow you the clearance to lift the body, I've found that the best thing is to try to turn the bezel sideways, which may take some effort as it is a tight fit. Then, you can lift it up through the access door and you are free to remove the body*.
*Sometimes the front lens needs to come out too, as this is also too wide to clear the bottom opening, and turning the whole thing sideways midway up isn't really an option (doesn't clear the rear components). To remove the front lens, you have to remove the nut at the lens end of the focus rod, followed by the four bolts underneath. It truly is kind of a pain. Hopefully you just have some really small hands and a short screwdriver
. If anyone has another (better) solution, I'd love to hear it, as when I overhauled my 1000Q, I encountered these problems.Hopefully you just have some really small hands and a short screwdriver
Haven't used these or a 1000Q, but these [URL='http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=angled%20screwdriver&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aangled%20screwdriver&page=1#/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aangle+screwdriver&keywords=angle+screwdriver&ie=UTF8&qid=1330406784"]Amazon results[/URL] would probably help.
JD
Well-Known Member
Not sure if the OP made it back to this thread, but I'll add this anyway:
Been a few years, but I think if you remove the screws, you can lift the housing up far enough up in the back to get a screwdriver in to the rail screws without taking it off. If the lamp you put in is the exact same type as the one you removed, then double check that seating issue. Often, relamping was the opportunity to give the unit a good cleaning, so I usually took the hood off. Don't remember having to remove the front lens, but it has been a few years!
Been a few years, but I think if you remove the screws, you can lift the housing up far enough up in the back to get a screwdriver in to the rail screws without taking it off. If the lamp you put in is the exact same type as the one you removed, then double check that seating issue. Often, relamping was the opportunity to give the unit a good cleaning, so I usually took the hood off. Don't remember having to remove the front lens, but it has been a few years!
