Theatrical Paint vs. Hardware store paint

Maybe there's a clue in this video, or maybe not.
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Although, not answering the question, I would like to state that fire retardant is easier to handle, in my experience, when using theatrical paint. For example, Rosco has retardant that is pre-botted to match up with speciic paint sizes. This added simplicity, to me, makes that pair very worth it.

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Rosco has retardant that is pre-botted to match up with speciic paint sizes. This added simplicity, to me, makes that pair very worth it.

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That would be following the manufactures instructions.
 
Based on the clue from kelite's post. would the difference be the solvent in the paint? making it able to be cut or, extended if you will, with water?
 
This is exactly on track with this topic. My analogy (chocolate chip cookies) was adding more of something to the mix. DuckJordan's approach mentioned thinning the product for coverage reasons. The big question is this- what is it (a one word answer is all we're lookin' for here...) that differentiates the scenic paint from the Home Despot paint?

Is it that you can mix Rosco paint to what color you need by adding other colors? Rosco paints can be mixed to almost any color. Also Rosco paints are transparent (except for White and White White) so it is much easier to make clear glazes out of them compared to store bought latex paint. The store bought paint has opacifiers in it to helps you cover your hose in less coats, but doesn't do as well with glazes and thin coats that are used in scenic painting. This also allows for painting in layers.
A disadvantage of the Rosco paint is that it's really expensive, especially if you buy a whole set of the paints. Another disadvantage is that any water gets into the can of paint it will cause the whole can to go bad really fast.
As for choice of paints, I know that casein (the Rosco stuff) washes off a lot easier than latex. It feels a lot different painting with latex than casein. So it would be a what kind of look do you want, which fits into your budget better, and which you are more comfortable painting with.
 
A disadvantage of the Rosco paint is that it's really expensive, especially if you buy a whole set of the paints. Another disadvantage is that any water gets into the can of paint it will cause the whole can to go bad really fast.
As for choice of paints, I know that casein (the Rosco stuff) washes off a lot easier than latex. It feels a lot different painting with latex than casein. So it would be a what kind of look do you want, which fits into your budget better, and which you are more comfortable painting with.

Rosco and Artist's Choice are not casein (milk) based paint.

So, what kind of paint is it then? What kind of paint is hardware store paint? Why does it matter?
 
That would be following the manufactures instructions.

Simple enough that I don't have to worry about someone else doing it wrong. One less thing to bother myself with is always good.


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As I said in the original question there are MANY differences. Here's another fact to consider:
You go to Lowes and buy the blackest color they sell in their house brand of paint. Next you decide to throw a little white into it to create a nice dark gray. Guess what, it develops a slightly blue look. What's up with that?
 
This is not the answer, but for some scenic paints there are no hardware store equivalents.
Roscoe Tough Prime for instance...
 
As I said in the original question there are MANY differences. Here's another fact to consider:
You go to Lowes and buy the blackest color they sell in their house brand of paint. Next you decide to throw a little white into it to create a nice dark gray. Guess what, it develops a slightly blue look. What's up with that?


This is because they use a really saturated Blue to create The "Black" effect, its much easier to find blue than a true black color.
 
Of the three major components of paint there has been much discussion of pigment and some discussion of the vehicle. but we have barely touched upon the third _ _ _ _ _ _.
perhaps...
 
Our interaction here at the 'Booth makes the time spent worth every minute- I've had college classes I've enjoyed, but the atmosphere here is the best!

:grin:
 
I assume you are referring to the binder. In my experience both theatrical paint and latex house paint now use an acrylic resin binder. For me the main difference between the two is the availability and consistency of the pigment, particularly and highly saturated colors which are often required for theatrical painting.
 
...The big question is this- what is it (a one word answer is all we're lookin' for here...) that differentiates the scenic paint from the Home Despot paint?
Does the one word start with an "s" and end with an "n"?
 
Saturation of the pigment is what allows for the highly saturated colors I was referring to.
 
The primary task that most paint is designed for, is to protect a solid surface from various environmental elements. A house painter's job is to apply a consistent thickness of liquid product over a large area to form a protective coating. The binder is going to contain various additive compounds Tailor made to the task at hand. (think interior/exterior, primer or topcoat, gloss/flat) the pigmentation is a secondary task, not necessary for the task of protection but it does make the end product look better. Imperfections in the application allow the environment to damage the base surface over time. so multiple coats and/or a final sealing coat may or may-not be needed to achieve the desired protection level.
In the end what you have is a whole lot of binder with a relatively small amount of pigment.

The task that scenic paint has does not require the heavy protective additives in the binder. The primary purpose is to satisfy the human eye, not the unforgiving environment.
it requires a high performance, lightweight, flexible binder to hold the pigment. It has a much higher ratio of pigment to binder.


So what happens when you unfold a drop painted with latex?..
Well when you folded it you compressed or stretched the binder. Things are not going to return to the same place. You will see large fold marks and puckers across the drop, You will have a very difficult time making the drop hang flat. Yes you can do this once with very thin latex but the drop will not behave in the same manner as a scenic paint drop.
 

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