Thanks for the links, a few lamps or brands I was not aware of and a new supplier possibly to supply shows in Europe from.
The FEP is the 230v version of a FEL. As with Len, I recommend against using either lamp due to heat which will more quickly wear especially its
lampholder if not wiring out. (This is especially important if a used
fixture with the lower temperature lampholders which are not rated for that wattage by way of using 18ga. wiring. Same reason you cannot just install a 750w lamp into an older S-4
fixture.) Also out of inefficiency of the
filament. More luminous output don’t mean all the light the lamp is producing is useful light that is reaching the
stage in an efficient way. This lamp has a larger
filament size which means less actual light gets out of the
gate of the
fixture. This light blocked by the
gate or reflected off at times as not directed stray light instead turns into wasted light at times a
donut or
top hat is needed to refine and especially heat for the light that don’t make it out of the
lens train.
In general you will probably note a less even field of light within the beam spread given such a lamp. The EHD, EHG, HX 800/801, FLK and HX601 (often called FLK/LL)
etc. series lamps also have similar inefficient filaments as the primary difference between them and a GLC/GLC/GLD/GLE series lamp in answering that question by belford.
For 750w/115v high output the Philips #6981P (115v) and #6982P (230v) are a
bit more powerful but still with the small
filament area than the GLD lamps in general. Radium’s (Ushio) RHS 800w/230/G9.5 while a little larger in
filament and less lamp hours than the #6982P lamp seems like an ok option also. You might even find that a #6981P in a
360Q might have the same or more output in
foot candles out of the
fixture as that FEL lamp. Same with the #6982P verses the FEP. The more efficient or compact the lamps’
filament, the more “
point source of light” it is, the more light that gets out of the
fixture with a flatter (more even) beam of light.
For 575/600w 230v and 240v, the GKV (Philips #6986P) high output, GKV/LL, and GLB (Philips #6991P) lamps seem fine and similar to our GLC/GLA for the most part. Smallest wattage lamp you can at 230v put into the
fixture is a Ushio JCV240v-500wBM. cc-8
filament on it might be small enough in efficiency but as a general concept when going lower wattage efficiency is a trade off. There is no HX-400/HX-401 version available also with cc-8 filaments at 230v.
Look up “The Law of Inverse Squares” or “
Law of Squares” as it relates to
stage lighting fixtures and it will answer the question of
throw distance verses
candlepower. This is also a question of how much useful light gets out of the lighting
fixture as projected, not just per lamp specification how much luminous output it has. Say a 1.2Kw Ushio JCV 120v-1200wCH produces an astounding 33,000 lumens, in a large
Altman 1000Q follow spot, this might be fine (not listed for the lamp) but in a
Leko even if by far more powerful than a FEL or better than that BWN lamp, it don’t mean all the light produced by the lamp gets out of the
fixture or once it gets out is useful light in that beam as opposed to flair.
For 230/240v first is the question not of what the
fixture will really see in
voltage, more a question of long life verses high output. Many long life lamps are less a more rugged lamp as a concept in being longer life in exchange for
color temperature and luminous output by design, and more just a lamp with
filament designed for a higher
voltage that will last much longer assuming the listed
voltage of the lamp that lamp is operating at is downscaled. In other words a say
incandescent lamp listed for 20,000 hours might be listed as 120v but in reality its
filament might be designed for 150v say. It than will have less luminous output and
color temperature but last a really long time.
In addition to this, a 240v listed lamp while having a longer life can at times be very useful assuming a short run to the
outlet and without dimming say at times for an architectural setting where
voltage drop will not be an issue, or say where
voltage spikes say from turning on a few dozen cash regesters at the same time might cause problems with the
power feeing the building with fluxuations. If not using a
dimmer and long cable especially for a permanent install, often a 120v or 240v lamp will be better to use even if still wanting high output out of it.
There is differences at times between 120v/115v/130v lamps as with 220/230/240v lamps but as a general concept a long life lamp while it might be stamped at a specific
voltage, its
filament is often just a larger
voltage rated lamp. Is say a 115v long life lamp the same as a 120v high output lamp? No often, the actual design
voltage of the lamp would be different by design for the end rated specifications of the lamp. A 120v high output lamp will most likely look different than a long life 115v lamp.
Voltage and Light Output: The
effect of
voltage on the light output of a lamp is ±1%
voltage over the rated amount stamped on the lamp, gives 3.1/2% more light or Lumens output but decreases the life by 13% and vise a versa.
Do not operate quartz Projection lamps at over 110% of their design
voltage as rupture might occur. GE Projection, Ibid p.13
A 5% change in the
voltage applied to the lamp results in
-Halving or doubling the lamp life
-a 15% change in luminous flux
-an 8% change in
power
-a 3% change in
current
-a 2% change in
color temperature (0.4% change per1%
voltage.)
Osram Technology and Application
Tungsten halogen Low
Voltage Lamps Photo Optics, p21
In other words:
Volts - A measurement of the electromotive force in an electrical
circuit or device expressed in volts.
Voltage can be thought of as being analogous to the pressure in a waterline. The
effect of
voltage on a lamp will cause a significant change in lamp performance. For any particular lamp, light output varies by a factor of 3.6 times and life varies inversely by a factor of 12 times any percentage variation in supply. For every 1% change in supply
voltage light output will rise by 3.6% and lamp life will be reduced by 12%. This applies to both DC and
AC current. Most standard
line voltage lamps are offered at 130v. Since most
line voltage power is applied at 120volts, the result is a slight under voltaging of the
filament. The
effect of this is substantially enhanced lifehours, protection from
voltage spikes and energy cost savings. - GE Spectrum Catalog ???
I agree with derekleffew also on if not actively attempting to get the maximum output out of the
fixture for use on
stage, you should both go long life and for the least wattage you can on it.
I’ll add to what Len was saying about reflectors
etc. wearing out faster. If a used lighting
fixture, your
lampholder is probably also shot. Look at the pins of the lamp that came out of the
fixture If blackened, pitted, arched
etc, the
base is also probably shot and don’t attempt to install that bad lamp into a new
lampholder or it will go bad really fast. Also look at the
lampholder’s contacts if other than gold, replace it.
Just sold off some 5Kw
Strand Bambinos today and noted a lot of arching and pitting on one. Been a few years since the last round of resurfacing and replacement even if each is thoroughly inspected before each show. The
lampholder for the resale
fixture was resurfaced sufficiently and coated with cleaner/lubricant, the lamp couldn't be saved. That's where I work and when I am involved with the supervision of what gets sold for a difference between what is in "
stock" workable show condition verses "used" or "as is" condition. Wouldn't sell gear that ain't show
level, safe and factory spec or very servicable still even if used. Large differences often between even "Show
Stock" gear in what is considered fine by the company selling it and or using it and sending it off on shows verses what our factory specification type quality
level would require. Bash once sold me some great and factory specification
level 3.5Q Lekos and Fresnels - if not new in factory specification condition at least. Now that
PRG owns Bash, and given the work needed to past bought or rented "used"
PRG fixtures, or gear from other comanies as often similar or worse, often large question of what's "servicable" this for many at least. In, buying or renting, expect the worst = even cob webs inside the fixtures as seen at times, or "gee, they only seem to rent us those fixtures which need major factory service...." This as I'm told the two buckets of lamps. That bucket of "new" seeming lamps used for tours, and "Ok" bucket of lamps used for rentals and
one-off's at best if not worse for resale. A few lamps supplied from NegEarth recently showed up for me to inspect that didn't last very long either in a question of if it's a rental
fixture, how did this lamp pass quality control while being prepped? This as opposed to me for five minutes per lamp and each lamp tracked on the computer per
fixture installed and lamp hours and all even rental fixtures color and output balanced as opposed to the rest of the fixtures on the show for maximum output and balance.... Just don't get it at times (my side
line in quality of resale gear.)
This as opposed to at least half the lampholders for many Mole 5 & 10K Fresnels bought resale samped with a WB'
logo and Mole Richardson logos that were cracked and bad. Often no matter who on studio lighting, it's bad for resale fixtures and in need of extensive expensive work. Running at best at 50% of all used 5K and 10K studio
Fresnel's bought over the years with at least re-surfaceable lampholders that can be saved in already assuming a rust pot
etc. Studio Fresnels are especially hard lights to buy when used. This even if using them for prop fixtures housing
LED fixtures... still gotta have some servicable parts on the
fixture in at least operating focus short of rust or broken.
Altman specifically is
UL listed in using Osram, Buhl, or Bender & Wirth TP-22 (lower temperature) or TP-220 (higher temperature) lampholders. They will be GX-9.5 lampholders as a general concept and all are standardized parts so it does not matter which brand you get. There is normally two versions of the
lampholder from each brand, go for the higher temperature/wattage version as a normal choice all brands have. #97-1580 is the
Altman part number which is currently a Bender & Wirth #968, 1000w/250deg. c.
Socket. The Osram TP-220
socket is what used to be offered as a
Altman #58-0018. It has heat sinks on it much like you might find on a
HPL lamp for a
ETC S-4
fixture. While I have never had problems with them, others in the past have found that this brand of
lampholder does not last as long. Also Ushio offers the C3A
lampholder for use with these fixtures. To the best of my knowledge,
Altman and UL listings for the
fixture still do not recognize this
lampholder for use in their
fixture. There are many people that use it none the less and recommend it. You might also find lampholders available from Etlin-Daniels, or AAG Stucchi which could work but are not recognized for use with the
fixture.
I meant as in "more tendency towards spot behavior, i.e. less 
