Q of the day' given the 3.5Q series was the first
Leko' invented with body to match the new concept of a workable
halogen lamp... who did it first Kliegl or
Colortran?
Colortran documents are in this sites Wikipedia, Kliegl brothers has their own historical website.
On reply to Les above... I don't really recommend this or center punch pippling the
spreader plate option mentioned and possibly deleted. A
bend/fold is worse than say a curve say around a 5gal bucket. Both the center punch dimpling and hard angle
bend will chisel a
bit of any coatings on the spreader or other plates. This as with burnt shutters scraping away at the plates all which permanently will damage plates.
Try instead to spin the tensioner plate some, weight it with like 15-20# of weight or clamp it (never had much luck clamping it with that little amount of approximate pressure), and drill new holes. Better yet, since
spreader plate holes are almost never really 90 degrees from each other, try spinning the plate 90 degrees, than another 90 degrees, than the third 90 degrees and see if you can get the
spreader plate so no mounting holes align with a drilled hole. That way dimples will be in the same position to the
shutter as opposed to a few degrees off. Drill new holes with the new weighted tension on the tensioner plate. (Have someone hold down the weight so all don't collapse while drilling.) Drill one, put a screw in, move you not the
fixture onto the next hole. Drilled, screw in, move to the next.
Take a file and scribe or center punch and
mark the proper position of the tensioner once done either way. Than if possible scribe, engrave
etc a part number of it matching to the outer casing. This way next time it's apart, you can get it back together.
Also recommended my
shutter and all
shutter assembly resurfacing steps mentioned years ago, plus painting and
PTFE or spray graphite to gliding parts.
On the grinding the
rivet flush, I don't recommend this either - sorry. First if you re-install with only the shaft or somewhat left part of the
rivet holding the fiber washer handle, it could fall off or break especially if the fiber washer is over heated from use or during the grinding. Second, unless you only have one fiber washer for a handle I doubt the more normal dual fiber washer would fit
thru other than the
gobo slot. Would be close if you were able to remove all spreader plates, but to what
point given above?
I prefer first a 1/16" punch to pound out the shaft of the
rivet. If you don't remove the shaft of the
rivet, when drilling you might hit the shaft and your drill
bit will
bounce off center.
Clamp the assembly with medium/hard pressure in vise grips so they don't spin or separate. This will also help determine if your fiber washer was heat damaged in use - by way of breaking in which case you grind. Dependant on era, your
shutter handles will either be using a 5/32" or 3/16"
rivet. Just use a #11 number size drill
bit with cutting oil and plan on making them 3/16" aluminum "sealing" with aluminum shaft surface mount
blind rivet of about 1/4" and shorter
grip length. Should be able to drill
thru the actual
shutter material with oil without dulling the
bit if at full speed on a cordless drill. Remember - if using cutting oil, horse hair brushes hold oil and in general you don't need to soak the
bit in oil or it will have to brun
thru it before it does cutting. This much less the too much oil will damage the fiber washer. Otherwise in general especially if stainless steel
shutter, having a carbide #11 drill
bit would be a great thing with oil and full speed.
Aluminum/Aluminum shaft rivets will clamp sufficiently the fiber washers to the
shutter without over tightening them and breaking the used fiber washer. Add a rivtet washer to the reverse side of the
rivet so the riveting action of the
pop rivet does not damage the Aluminum rivets bob into the soft or brittle fiber washer. Aluminum rivets also do not get as hot. The lower shaft of the "sealing"
rivet will stick out some more than normal
rivet, it's actually useful in focus. If you find the
rivet broke its shaft before they were tight enough, a medium tap with a hammer on an anvil below the
rivet on the
shutter handles will tension them enough without damage.