Control/Dimming Atomic 3000 Test Points

macdiv

macdiv

Member
Hello pros. I have clinically dead Atomic board .. there is no sign of any defected parts .... its a 220V version ,,,when powered the fan spines for seconds and the led flashes but no light output in the stand alone or in the DMX mode ...the Bulb is OK .... almost 2 years ago i was having nearly the same defect in another piece and i found out that it was duo to a bad contact through hole ... this time i check most of the visually through hole contact but didn't find any ... so i thought if i check the TP or test points voltage or scope it in the schematics trying to solve the problem that could help ... So any clew ? ,,,Thanks
 
The voltages present in that fixture are more than high enough to damage an oscilloscope unless you have really expensive probes. Most signals are logic level, but it only takes one mistake to burn up your scopes front end.
If you have other working Atomic 3000 fixtures I would swap components between the broken fixture and a working one. If you are systematic about it and test both fixtures each time you swap components it shouldn't be that bad to at least track down the part that is causing the problem. Then you can try to repair or replace it once you have a better idea what the issue is.
 
Somewhere on this forum I posted the schematic for the 3000 a year or two ago. A quick search should find it. Just remember, the 3000 fires the lamp straight across the incoming AC line (not a capacitor) so you have a hot PCB and any misstep will have a quick and possibly fatal ending.
 
porkchop said:
The voltages present in that fixture are more than high enough to damage an oscilloscope unless you have really expensive probes. Most signals are logic level, but it only takes one mistake to burn up your scopes front end.
If you have other working Atomic 3000 fixtures I would swap components between the broken fixture and a working one. If you are systematic about it and test both fixtures each time you swap components it shouldn't be that bad to at least track down the part that is causing the problem. Then you can try to repair or replace it once you have a better idea what the issue is.
Click to expand...
You are right porkchop ,,,Thanks for the advice ... my scope is dead already but i don't wona damage my borrowed one also .. that's why i asked for a test point that could help cos i already tried the swap component technique ,,i swapped most of the major parts Q104,IC106,IC103,1C114,Q102,D110,D111,IC117 but no luck
JD said:
Somewhere on this forum I posted the schematic for the 3000 a year or two ago. A quick search should find it. Just remember, the 3000 fires the lamp straight across the incoming AC line (not a capacitor) so you have a hot PCB and any misstep will have a quick and possibly fatal ending.
Click to expand...
Yes JD i have the circuit and i tried to do OHM test between most of the major terminal between the working one and my defective board but didn't find any difference ,,by the way i went back to the old thread and read all the comment specially yours cos i know you are very experienced board level engineer ... but it didn't help cos that thread was really concerning a bad low level Dc rail ,,,,and i don't have any problem in the DC ,,,i have the 12V and 5V Ok
 

Attachments

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macdiv said:
You are right porkchop ,,,Thanks for the advice ... my scope is dead already but i don't wona damage my borrowed one also .. that's why i asked for a test point that could help cos i already tried the swap component technique ,,i swapped most of the major parts Q104,IC106,IC103,1C114,Q102,D110,D111,IC117 but no luck
Click to expand...

If you haven't already, try swapping the DMX transceiver chip. The schematic image is a bit blurry, but I think it's IC102? It's in the upper right corner of the schematic near the XLR connectors.
 
Still can't actually rule out the transceiver. If the chip failed and is holding the data line high, the processor can't make it through its boot, so you never get to the "stand alone" part of the program.
There are three LEDs on the back; Power, Data, and Flash. Which one is blinking?
 
JD said:
Still can't actually rule out the transceiver. If the chip failed and is holding the data line high, the processor can't make it through its boot, so you never get to the "stand alone" part of the program.
There are three LEDs on the back; Power, Data, and Flash. Which one is blinking?
Click to expand...
at powering start ...both red and green blinking and the Fan spine for 2 second and then stop ..when connecting the DMX .... the Green led blinking fast as its receiving signal just like the normal one ...
 
Hello, I first had problem similar to this: https://wemakethings.net/2012/02/14/repairing-a-martin-atomic-3000-dmx-strobe/ . Then I replaced all the blewed components (mostly all highlighted in the attached schematic). The lamp strobed right for about 1 min in stand alone mode (1/sec full power), then no more light output.

Now it's the same problem as macdiv: there is no sign of any defected parts. In dmx mode, the led (LD106) flash at the same rate sent by the dmx controller, and in stand alone it blink as it should. 12V and 5V ok, so I presume DC components are good. As like macdiv I compared components with multimeter with a working atomic 3000. Any idea is welcome to find bad component in high voltage section, without appropriate probe / oscillo… Thanks
 

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mcj said:
Hello, I first had problem similar to this: https://wemakethings.net/2012/02/14/repairing-a-martin-atomic-3000-dmx-strobe/ . Then I replaced all the blewed components (mostly all highlighted in the attached schematic). The lamp strobed right for about 1 min in stand alone mode (1/sec full power), then no more light output.

Now it's the same problem as macdiv: there is no sign of any defected parts. In dmx mode, the led (LD106) flash at the same rate sent by the dmx controller, and in stand alone it blink as it should. 12V and 5V ok, so I presume DC components are good. As like macdiv I compared components with multimeter with a working atomic 3000. Any idea is welcome to find bad component in high voltage section, without appropriate probe / oscillo… Thanks
Click to expand...
Tray to check L104 ZS1052AC and see if it working or not ....
Also you are saying that ((The lamp strobed right for about 1 min in stand alone mode (1/sec full power), then no more light output.)) ,,this mean that there was still a bad componnent in the first trail ,,,and after the test you made its mostly also one of the components you have just replaced ,,went dead again ,,,so you have to replace them again
 
macdiv said:
Tray to check L104 ZS1052AC and see if it working or not ....
Also you are saying that ((The lamp strobed right for about 1 min in stand alone mode (1/sec full power), then no more light output.)) ,,this mean that there was still a bad componnent in the first trail ,,,and after the test you made its mostly also one of the components you have just replaced ,,went dead again ,,,so you have to replace them again
Click to expand...

Not working...
After the failed test, I first checked all replaced components with ohm / diode meter, then compare with the good one strobe, without significant differences...
Did you succeed to repair your last year defect atomic 3000? What was the problem finally?
 
mcj said:
Not working...
After the failed test, I first checked all replaced components with ohm / diode meter, then compare with the good one strobe, without significant differences...
Did you succeed to repair your last year defect atomic 3000? What was the problem finally?
Click to expand...
Q102 STD2NB60 and the L104 ZS1052AC was the issue ,,, continuity test will fake you ..Replace again ,,, swap the chock from a working one and test
 
Thanks for advice... so I swaped L104, Q102, IC117 from the good one, no result.
Then Q104 and now it works!
... Except that I have strange behavior: the lamp always strobe at dmx controller rate, but sometimes with minimum intensity, and this randomly. It seems that with higher rate (or longer strobes), normal flash intensity proportion increases.
After that, I switched IC114, IC105, with same result...
 
mcj said:
Thanks for advice... so I swaped L104, Q102, IC117 from the good one, no result.
Then Q104 and now it works!
... Except that I have strange behavior: the lamp always strobe at dmx controller rate, but sometimes with minimum intensity, and this randomly. It seems that with higher rate (or longer strobes), normal flash intensity proportion increases.
After that, I switched IC114, IC105, with same result...
Click to expand...
Check intensity DIP SW its the last one ... for bad contact
 
mcj said:
In low power mode, normal flashes are less brighter as expected (proportional to intensity channel), but I still have these no brightness strobes (bulb is illuminated, but no power), with the same erratic working...
Click to expand...
When you first powering the unite ...Does it flashes that one strong flash ? or also weak ? Did you tray to swap the bulb it self ? also check the bulb type Jumper on the board ..Also test the 3 Power rectifier diodes ...if not ...and if you don't have analyzer to do comparison between the good and the bad one ,,,but if you don't you can do OHM metering comparison between some points and see whats up
 
macdiv said:
When you first powering the unite ...Does it flashes that one strong flash ? or also weak ? Did you tray to swap the bulb it self ? also check the bulb type Jumper on the board ..Also test the 3 Power rectifier diodes ...if not ...and if you don't have analyzer to do comparison between the good and the bad one ,,,but if you don't you can do OHM metering comparison between some points and see whats up
Click to expand...
For the moment I just have one bulb that I swap for each test. On the good one, the first flash after powering the unit is proportional to intensity channel. On the bad one, first flash is sometimes normal, sometimes weak. When I replaced blewed components, there were 1 of the 3 power rectifier diode in short-circuit (D112) but I replaced all of them (D113, D121). D111 was also in short-circuit. Now I have quite similar results between some points with ohm/diode meter. To analyze, I only have a bitscope micro http://bitscope.com/product/BS05/ with standard probe http://be.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/st...estType=Base&partNumber=2392850&storeId=10154 , and a Goldstar OS-7020. What can I measure without destroying anything?
 
mcj said:
For the moment I just have one bulb that I swap for each test. On the good one, the first flash after powering the unit is proportional to intensity channel. On the bad one, first flash is sometimes normal, sometimes weak. When I replaced blewed components, there were 1 of the 3 power rectifier diode in short-circuit (D112) but I replaced all of them (D113, D121). D111 was also in short-circuit. Now I have quite similar results between some points with ohm/diode meter. To analyze, I only have a bitscope micro http://bitscope.com/product/BS05/ with standard probe http://be.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/st...estType=Base&partNumber=2392850&storeId=10154 , and a Goldstar OS-7020. What can I measure without destroying anything?
Click to expand...
For me I almost test all the points around the suspected blown components area...you can also try a live test with power put Take a Great Care cos the probe usually slip and pomp to each other cosing very nice sound and light effect
 
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