Best Place to Label

[DCATTechie]

I'm looking to add ID code tags to each one of our fixtures in our inventory. My thought was to print them out on my label maker and place them on the fixture itself in case the yokes get shuffled around.

My question is though, where should I place them on the fixture so they won't get burned or melted while the fixture is on?
Our inventory consists of S4 ellipsoidals, S4 Zooms and Jr. Zooms, S4 PAR EA's, Altman 3.5Q's, Altman 8" Fresnels, Altman FC-1's cyc cells, and Altman Comets.

Last thing, does each S4 fixture have a unique serial number somewhere on the body?

 

[Les]

I'd still place the labels on the yoke, maybe right next to the manufacturer's ID tag. Anywhere on the fixture (especially on a 3.5Q or fresnel) it will get melted unless it is printed on a heat resistant/proof medium. After all, how many times had you really had to shuffle around a yoke?
If I were to pick a spot on the instrument itself though, it would be somewhere on the lens barrel (Older Colortran's and Strand Leko's used this placement).

About the serial number thing, I don't think there is one printed on the body anywhere. You might look on the yoke, but as far as the body goes, hundreds of other S4's used that same casting so putting a S/N there would be problematic.

 

[Sony]

don't use a label maker, doesn't really matter where you put it, it will fall off most likely within months from heat.

Best thing I have found is a silver paint marker/sharpie and mark the base of the unit. I usually mark them in the form of 1E3 or 2C10 where 1E or 2C means it's on the 1st Electric (1E) or 2nd Catwalk (2C) counting outwards from the proscenium. The number after the pipe number is the position on the pipe so 1E3 would be the 3rd unit from the end (counting Stage Right to Stage Left) on the 1st Electric and 2C10 would be the 10th fixture on the 2nd Catwalk. Then I mark where the C-Clamp goes with the same marker on the pipe itself.

The paint comes off fairly easily with some turpentine so it's not truly permanent, but will last much longer then any tape label.

 

[rochem]

On tour, the units that come from the big rental shops usually have an ID tag on the yoke, which lists channel, dimmer, color, hanging location, purpose, and instrument type - and most shops now have a bar code there too. Whether or not the yoke position will work for you depends on how you use your inventory. I know there was a post a while back where someone said that in his space, they never rehung units - they had a permanently hung plot, and just switched out lens tubes as needed. If you operate like this, then yoke labeling probably won't work. Or if you don't mind it looking less professional, you could grab a paint pen and just write an ID number on the lens tube (such as "436-14" for S4-36* #14, and so on).

Many venues also paint the color frame holders on their units so that you can see from a distance what type of unit it is. So yellow paint might be a S4-50*, green may be a S4-26*, etc. In my venue, I've done something slightly different and used colored E-tape covering the color frame holder - it doesn't melt or fall off at all, and we can identify a unit from the deck when it's up at trim height.

 

[DCATTechie]

Little clarification. This ID code isn't for Focus,Color,Dimmer or anything else. It's just too keep track of each fixture for maintenance, changing of lamps, and to make sure some don't "walk off". The codes on the fixture will correspond to a spreadsheet that displays manufacturer, type, degree, date purchased, and lamp type. When I do hang the fixtures I will create another tag to place on the pipe and on the fixture itself detailing all the important information.

 

[gafftaper]

Yes, use a paint pen. You can get them at art supply stores and larger office stores. You write with some sort of acrylic paint. Another option would be to just buy some acrylic paint and a small brush and paint the yokes.

 

[Sony]

In that case the Silver Paint Pen is probably the best option by far, it's way more durable then any tape label. I don't think it looks unprofessional ether, as long as you have good handwriting and you keep consistent on WHERE and HOW you write the numbers on the Unit itself then it will look very professional.

At Trinity Repertory Company we also do what rochem said and spray paint the bottom gel holder bracket depending on the lens tube angle. Black (i.e. No Color) is 50°, Red is 36°, Blue is 26° and White is 19°. it makes it very easy to spot which fixture is which from the deck.

Also when labeling the fixtures, use a numbering scheme that is easy to identify! I.e. Make all the 5° fixtures in the 1 - 50 range then the 10° in the 51 - 99 then 19° in the 100 - 199 then 26° in the 200 to 299 and so forth. It makes it much easier for sorting and figuring out which fixture should have which barrel by default when you take down a plot and would like to put the original barrels in the bodies that you may have switched with spare lenses.

 

[NickJones]

Ours are all labelled with the name of the venue with an engraving pen thing, it works fine, unless you intend to re-sell them, it should work, and you don't have to worry about it melting and dripping onto the stage.
Nick

 

[midgetgreen11]

At Trinity Repertory Company

Hate to hijack this, but you work at Trinity? I live about 30 minutes from there. Only seen a show there once though.

 

[Sony]

Hate to hijack this, but you work at Trinity? I live about 30 minutes from there. Only seen a show there once though.

Yep, I'm one of the overhire electricians at Trinity Rep Co in Providence, RI. If you want I can see if I can give you a backstage tour sometime. PM me.

 

[Sean]

Little clarification. This ID code isn't for Focus,Color,Dimmer or anything else. It's just too keep track of each fixture for maintenance, changing of lamps, and to make sure some don't "walk off". The codes on the fixture will correspond to a spreadsheet that displays manufacturer, type, degree, date purchased, and lamp type. When I do hang the fixtures I will create another tag to place on the pipe and on the fixture itself detailing all the important information.

How much equipment do you have?

I'll suggest that you're really just making a monumental data task for yourself...one that will yield little-to-no truly useful information or clarity.

Source-4 Lekos have multiple interchangable parts (cap, lens tube...etc). What happens when you swap a tube in the air? Fix a burnout quickly with a spare cap?

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for maintaining an accurate equipment list. But what will knowing WHICH 19 degree is in a particular location get you?

Put your organization name on things if you have problems with confusion between house and rental gear.

I think there was a thread about this a while back, but now can't find it...

--Sean

 

[gafftaper]

Have to agree with Sean on the inventory aspect of this. We've had people talk about this before in the past. Unless you have a rental business or are in a situation where you are constantly loaning things between multiple theaters on a campus... I see very little need for a full inventory lableing system. Even if you are doing something like moving fixtures between multiple locations a full inventory system doesn't make as much sense as just simply color coding the fixtures (i.e. red live on the main stage, blue lives in the black box).

Sony, they color coding barrels to indicate their size is a great idea. Next time I pull them all down for benching I'm going to do that.

 

[MrsFooter]

However you decide to do it, I'm begging you, don't mark the degree on the body or yoke of a Leko. There's nothing more frustrating as an electrician than having to switch out an entire fixture when simply switching out the barrel would achieve the same result. Or even worse, hanging what the yoke says is a 36d and later discovering that the barrel says it's a 26d.

 

[Sayen]

I think it all comes down to your particular use. A tour that marks pipe position is completely different from my little theater where lights are never hung in the same place twice.

I teach in a school, and have a method that works for me. We mark the yokes in paint with a numbering system. First goes the venue name, followed by a number code for the type of fixture, then the particular fixure. So for example S-4 ellipsoidals might be series 1, with 33 lights, then the last light is "VENUE 1 - 33" for inventory control. At the end of each number is a paint mark in a particular color, telling me when the light was last disassembled and cleaned. I use a different color each year, usually something left over from a show. This lets me track inventory, and when I service a light I can add major notes to a spreadsheet. Far less complicated than this sounds, and the numbers help me spot my fixtures in a hurry when we have a rental.

We also paint the ends of certain cables to spot them quickly. I don't record degree either because the barrels get swapped frequently.

 

[ship]

For us the origional or replacement lens train ETC sticker works fine on at least a Leko in telling what it is. Assuming the yoke is the coolest part of the fixture next is a foam backed dry erase tag on the upper part of the yoke for other info. Same as per case labels, such a tag is printed and designed so one can use sharpee on the label designating lamp type and lens type than use chemicals and a rag to whipe away that info without erasing the printed info. We don't number or barcode at least these fixtures, too many of them and a simple head count is sufficient. Not like its a moving light at many times the cost in needing to track. Check the tag's box with lamp type and fill in beam type. Already has company name and phone number on the tag. This in addition to each fiberglass sleeved whip having a company heat shrink on it with it's date of purchase written onto it with sharpee before shrunk and clear heat shrink over it to ensure the inked heat shrink don't wear off.

Lamp caps frequently change but mostly the yoke to the fixture don't change and it is for the most part standardized parts no matter the era - for the most part at least. Way back when during the change from 575w fixtures to 750w rated fixture caps we switched from black heat shrink to blue heat shrink with our name on them. This with dating of at least cap with some tell tale signs about newer verses older bodies has allowed over the years us to sell off the older gear and track them sufficiently with the older caps for resale.

For other fixtures, metallic adhesive mylar stickers or even embossed aluminum rivited tags work well in not coming off the fixture and dealing with heat no matter where placed. Easy enough also to engrave the aluminum tag, fixture itself or use ink to write onto the fixture or mylar tag. Paint marker and silver sharpee works well also. There is high temperature paint markers out there also as well as stencil ink normally takes heat fine. Stencil equipment also. Years ago and I still have like a #37 Fresnel stenciled with fixture number even if antique.

IA' stickers in being more of a paper sticker or decal also seem to last a long time on the yoke or body of the fixture. The paper will brown some but as long as the glue is good it will stay in place. They just don't as with many options other than the aluminum tag or dry erase tag work so well with painting the fixture between shows and just using chemicals to remove what paint got on the fixture tag.

Re-painting the fixture might be simple enough in say re-stenciling the fixture but difficult enough so as not to use say paper tags or decals which won't survive at times even painters tape placed over them.

McLoone Metal Graphics, Inc. out of La Crosse, WI. if of any help is who we get most of our labels both mylar and dry erase from be it case (.020 Velvet/Matte Carbonate, .062 FM 2316 Dble White foam adhesive), gobo installed label, Leko/PAR, case 4" color coded dot stickers, Moving light address label, vinyl/fabric drape labels etc. from.



Key concept in getting something done for you, price it out with specifically what you want with that supplier working with you in solution from custom stencil (gobo makers can also make) and every few years re-price it out. Make that supplier do at least the working with you leg work in figuring out for your application from what best sticks to a road case with rough routered countersunk plywood to stick the label to high temperature labels to dry erase labels what best will work for you. Make the supplier for the inial order work for their sale based on their expertise in product for what you need. Than stick with them for at least a year or two but after that don't be afraid of re-negotiating the deal and or pricing it out with others.
Must have like eight or ten cable suppliers at this point and double that for lamps at this point all hungry for a sale. This much less in sales people moving about in companies they work for and hoping to get your account with that new company away from the former and list of them.

Hand the pre-printed lamp sticker label to the new local company, note price we paid and what they paid, or contact the supplier direct and Minuteman Press lost a sale by way of way over double charging for a simple contract they held for well over ten years now. That's sheer greed. For the past few years like two to four thousand lamp stickers bought per year without any effort done by them for over 100% profit....

 

[SteveB]

How much equipment do you have?

I'll suggest that you're really just making a monumental data task for yourself...one that will yield little-to-no truly useful information or clarity.

I agree with Sean.

I have roughly 700 fixtures in 3 theaters and have never needed to label any. Essentially, a fixture is a fixture is a fixture and I don't really care if I "might" have had trouble with a fixture prior. We service all this stuff in August and fix or triage as needed. If something critical breaks during the year and I have no spares, I fix immediately, or will wait till I have some of my crew that did summer maintenance and have them fix when they have a free moment on a call. When lamps blow, I change them and don't need to keep track of how many lamps I go thru. Over 28 years in the same hall, the General Manager knows that I only buy what I need and never exceeds his own sense of spending too much.

So here's a scenario. Fixture AltSk30-22 (Altman Shakespeare 30 degree #22) has a bad cap. Do I have to log a note in the master book about a bad socket, then another log note that the socket was changed a week later ?. Or do simply I swap the cap now, having checked and fixed the lamp pins for corrosion, then place the bad cap in the "Bad" box, fix it *later* with a spare socket and place the spare back in the part closet. I've never seen any patterns to fixtures going bad repeatedly, thus no need to log. They are not something complicated like Army helicopters after all..

Steve B.

 

[NevilleLighting]

I vote yoke too. It's very, very infrequently that I have had to take a yoke off the instrument. Infrequent enough that it's not that much of a workload to re-mark a unit.