Blacklight Efffects

ship

Senior Team Emeritus
Premium Member
I was doing a search tonight for one of our customers that while he knows he won't get much actual UV-A output out of a single cell cyc light, he was curious about what gel would be best to simulate at least black light.

Been a discussion over the years on this, stagecraft, lighting network and pro-sound forums/groups. Unfortunately in doing a search on each tonight, stagecraft search is as normal down, the other two didn't result in what I searched for and this forum resulted in a few but I think the origional post(s) discussions on it are missing or gone since the upgrade. Anyone find the origional link where there was lots of discussion and posts?

Otherwise, the discussion should be opened up again on one's favorate gel to simulate black light.

From this forum I found the following colors: Gam 905, doubled up Rosco Lux 85, Rosco 59, Lee 180, Lee 343, and Congo Blue... which ever brand / number that is.

By extension based upon published gel conversion charts and notes we get the following: (Remember this is based off gel conversion charts and some conversions listed will be way off or brilliant.)

RoscoLux:
Rx017; Rx317; Rx018; Rx357; Rx058; Rx059; Rx085; Rx383; Rx385
Rosco E-Color:
e017; e058; e108; e120; e147; e180; e195; e204; e343
RoscoLene:
811; 841; 843; 866
Lee:
017; HT085; 108; 120; 137; 147; 180; 181; 195; 204; 237; 343; 713; 716; 776
Gam:
343; 324;342; 343; 375; 855; 890; 905; 915; 925; 930; 940; 945; 950; 1543
Apollo:
3900; 4050; 4100; 3550; 3600; 3800; 7200; 7420; 7500
Olesen:
45
CineMold:
20
CineGel:
3106; 3407
CineColor:
645
GelaTran:
62


A further note:
For color mixing to take place, we need space. A low grid height or a short throw limits the amount of space in which color can interact. Either we ought to increase the throw of the instruments or limit the pallette of colors. The other side of this problem is too much distance. The more saturated the color, the more difficult it is to read over distance. For instance, Lux 85 (Deep Blue) either needs a lot of intensity, which will reduce the effective life of the filter, or a short throw in order to read its color.

Besides the throw, we also have to consider the angle and position of our instruments. Blacklight and downlight do not blend well, except on the floor. These two positions often use heavier colors to highlight the set and actors, or to build mood subtly. Sidelight works well in modeling and for promoting contrasts of color. Frontlight is crucial in the mixture of color to create adequate visibility and good facial tone on the actors. Most often, the downstage area must provide visual clarity to the actors, while the light upstage establishes mood. A scene full of moonlight or a subtle transition to sunset is counterproductive if the color and/or visibility distracts from the action of the play. (Rosco Technotes #10)



A consideration about dimming verses using the wattage of lamp closest in wattage/output to the need:

Dimming: with dimming, incandescent lamps change their spectral distribution. The relative reduction in blue and green energy may affect the color produced by the filter. This means less in the UV-A range also - a lot less.

(more UV notes to follow perhaps at some time.)
 
Lee 181 is called Congo Blue and is a simulation of UV. It will certainly pick up fluoro paint salthough it won't make them fluoresce.
 
Rosco makes a Congo blue as well, I'm sure of it, but my swatchbook's currently 8 hours away, so i can't tell you what number it is.

A side note though, a few years ago for my school's talent show (before I was LD), they rented a couple Wildfire blacklights to make some neon-colored spike tape and UV bodypaint glow. The throw from the blacklights was about...20,30ft from sidelight positions, and didn't do nearly enough to make the colors pop. So then we put all the ML's with CMY on as dark blue/purple as we could make them, and...wow. Looked great, both the paint and the spike tape went through phenomenally.
 
L181 or anything with the name "Indigo"
 
R382 4tw...Though I've got to jump on the wildfire bandwagon if you can get them
 
In my old middle school theatre we used to have four fluorescent fixtures hanging just upstage of the first electric with blacklight tubes in them. We didn't make any attempt to dim them, they were just on / off, but the floro tubes did a good job of covering the stage. We weren't doing anything too advanced with them - just white shirts and gloves on dancers - but it worked pretty well for simple stuff.
 
Hey, fancy that this would be a topic right now. I have a friend who is designing a dance piece, and she wants to use UV light and flouescent paint/makeup. The company I work for currently has two AMDJ Mega Bar UV50s available for rental, but I've never used them before. She needs to cover about a 20' x 30' area from a height of about 15'-18' in the air. Would two of these work well for her? Would a congo blue or other similar gel work to "punch up" the existing light? I've never tried UV effects on stage, so I'll stay tuned in to this thread. Thanks.
 
Hi Everyone,
I need some advice re blacklighting a school gymnatorium(?) stage area. Our school has a Main Stage that is 40' wide and 25' deep, which is primarily used as an upstage/sets area. We also have a Thrust Stage that extends 25' into the FOH area which is at least 40' wide as well. The Director wants to use blacklighting for several scenes.
I can build 10 blacklight footlight boxes to cover the front of the Thrust Stagebut this is time-consuming and bulky. Are there reasonably priced alternatives? Are blacklight cannons (ie 400W) or LED fixtures a better way to go? I have some money to spend, but I'm also saving for moving lights. (My console is just an ETC Express, so I know I'm limited for MLs)
Our school is in Ontario, Canada, so I need Canadian suppliers.
Thanks, Jim
 
Check out wildfire fixtures, these are pretty much the industry standard. However, they will cost you your firstborn.
 
Hey Jim. You can price out Wildfires (you don't want to go the fluorescent fixture route incidentally) at Christielites, Jack Frost, or email [email protected] for a price. I get great deals from Jason (Rose), but I'm not sure if he deals Wildfires. Feel free to PM me if you need more help.
 
If you want to go really cheap, there is a gel, Lee 181, that is pretty close to blacklight. I used it for a scene in a student directed one act, and it worked pretty well. You may want to double gel it to make it darker, but make sure to punch holes in it or so something to prevent if from melting because it's so dark.
 
If you want to go really cheap, there is a gel, Lee 181, that is pretty close to blacklight. I used it for a scene in a student directed one act, and it worked pretty well. You may want to double gel it to make it darker, but make sure to punch holes in it or so something to prevent if from melting because it's so dark.

I agree on L181 I use it whenever I don't need a true black-light and it looks pretty good every time, especially if you are time/budget crunched. It certainly doesn't have the same pop, but it isn't really that far off. You probably want to test it on a smaller scale first so you can see if you really need black-lights though and so you get the idea of the effect.
 
I know we tend to scoff at this brand... but...

proxy.php


Yes, its american DJ. However, for 200 bucks this thing puts out a pretty good deal of UV Light. I hung one FOH and filled a 40' wide stage without much issue. The only downside is the lamp takes about 3-4 minutes to heat up to full power, so you have to plan for that. For 200 bucks though, you can't beat it. Amazon is selling it for 199 right now.
 
A better alternative to the UV Cannon is Elations UV Wash. We do a dance recital every year and use just two for a 30 x 40' stage. Under $ 150.00 each and no warm up time.

proxy.php
 
You know, for all the crap we give ADJ, they do have some applications. All my PAR 16s are ADJ, and they work great, just as good as the PAR 20s that I bought from a professional supplier at twice the cost and no real major differences. Course, I did retro-fit all mine to take MR-16 lamps and built a power distribution for them designed by a family member (dads a ee)...
 
Wildfires are great if you have a Cirque budget but for most of us they are too expensive to even rent.

I've got 6 Elation UV wash fixtures (the picture Bill posted above). They are excellent and a great price. They feature a 100 watt Compact Florescent UV Lamp. You can buy just the lamp... I think they cost about $25. So if you were really desperate and short on cash you could use those in another fixture. However you would miss out on the benefits of the fixture, which is well mirrored in order to reflect all the UV forward.
 
Discotheques love their blacklights. The DJ option is certainly a viable one.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back