That looks pretty sweet, can you post a list of what you did / used to make that box? It looks very professional. (Tell me if I'm wrong and thats the actual headset box which came with the system).
It would be very easy to add an led. I promise all of you I will do my best to get this to work and that when I do get it to work I'll post a guide on how to do it. I really want this headset to work.
Just so you all know, the circuits involved with this are VERY simple and easy to make. You can get all the parts at radioshack.
if the switch is for power then it should be very easy to incorporate a led. I would not reccomend adding one as that is just another item to drain the battery....but leds do not draw that much so it shouldnt be a big deal.
Yeah. LEDs barely use any battery, but it's still some. The best way to go is to get rechargable batteries, though. They save you so much $$$ nowadays.
i havent had a chance to look the clearcom system diagrams over, but could you draw power from there to say its on or off and change the switch to be a double pole single throw.
I plan on building a modified one, but it will follow the exact same ciruit diagram. instead of hardwiring the headset in I will be using 1/8 jacks and i am thinking about including a muteswitch only because of how our theatre is set up....(there are about 4 feet between the headset wall plate (no belt pack in this spot) and where you need to be to use the headset)
thanks aaron, can you approximate how loud it is? as in soft or loud
Thanks guys, I'm not sure how loud its output is cause I havent tested it on a clearcom system, I've only tested it by pluging it into a single pack connected to a 24v power supply
It would be great if someone here who has more access to a clearcom setup could test it.
I have the access and sdhould be able to try it after break. the muteswitch in theroy would work by breaking one leg of the mic. i am wondering if the switch that is there for power would work as well though???
Avoid Radio Shack if you can. Buy from Jameco. I make circuits for a hobby, and I get my parts from Jameco. You can get everything but the project box for less, and you can even get the XLRconnector there, so you don't have to cut any headsets. Works really well.
P.S. Don't have clearcom or I would have tried this as soon as the topic popped up...I like projects like this...but it's a really good idea. I wish that I could build and test one.
You don't want to make the muteswitch break one leg, since there's power to the mic, that would cause it to pop. What you want is to use a NO switch ACROSS the two mic lines, so that when you press it, it shorts the two lines together. This will eliminate any popping and mute the mic.