I also recommend the American DJ or Used route.
But otherwise:
On a work light you will fight the hard
edge to the beam a lot more than on a
cyc light. It’s going to be a really hard
edge and the beam spread is comparatively more narrow but it should work to some extent -
throw distance will be your friend.
Don’t trust the
conduit like frames - find a hard
point to
safety cable the things and pay attention to how you are going to clamp it if hanging it. Also that these things get really hot, much less could be really dangerous if someone were to kick them. If floor mounted, mount them to a floor
base or something that will prevent them from being kicked over by accident or someone
tripping over the
cord. If hanging, the glass is
safety glass that while it won’t
break in big dangerous chunks will shower in fine sharp particles if it breaks. Removal of the
safety glass also is not an option, nor is screening with
hardware cloth. Opitcally the
hardware cloth shows up like a
grid of shadow
grid boxes (it is a lighting
effect that can be useful). Only real
safety glass replacement or cage over it should the
lens be removed would be a stainless steel window screening type material such as used on Omni Lights. Such a replacement would work well and allow it to operate fairly cool, but it would cut down on the light to some extent unless a fairly open weave. Theoretically it would be possible to drill some vent/cooling holes In the casting at the top of the
fixture to help some with cooling it. No holes larger than 1/4" or you have to do
safety screen vents.
This all granted that it’s not
UL listed for
stage lighting... Let me state it again - work lights ar not
UL listed for a
stage lighting
fixture and should not be used. Much less the wiring will with time suffer from heat damage. Lamp bases also will wear out.
Try frosted 500w FDN lamps in the
fixture instead of the
clear 4.11/16" ones that come with the
fixture - this will be one step further in getting a
wash of light.
Years back for
stage work lights we used to use outdoor security light fixtures - they were about the same but their
yoke/swivel was very fragile once it became standard to be plastic.
Halogen work lights usually fail at their stand first followed by the lamp bases burning up. Often you will find such fixtures still in use as work lights. Often a duplex
conduit box with
cord off the back of it will have been attached to the
fixture and a
C-Clamp to the other side of the box. This sometimes even with a duplex
Edison outlet on the front of the duplex box so that a series of these fixtures could be powered up... yep, them were the days. Mine had ½" schedule 40 water pipe Tee’s attached to both
fixture and
C-Clamp back than. The other part of the Tee had a
cord strain relief on it. A
bit more rugged but still not up to code in that water pipe is not
NEC compliant. Also did some Bell boxes which were at least a
bit more rugged. Still short of doing an all aluminum and really heavy duty security light, the first part to fail on them was always the plastic
yoke/swivel part that joined
fixture to electrical box - constantly broke. After that the lamp bases would fail.
I see lots of work lights show up for repair with bad lamp bases also - if not the above snapped welds or other problems with the stand for the
fixture.