Difficulty with scrollers

Fritz G

New Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2017
Location
Ithaca, NY
Hi,
I’m using an ETC Element and Apollo Smart Color 7.25 scrollers. I created a new show file, and somehow messed up the patches for all of our scrollers. Our system contains numerous show plots, and the color palettes in all of them have been deleted. I made new color palettes based on record of what we had previously and patched them to our scrollers, but the scrollers are utterly unresponsive. The dimmers work, but when I select different colors using ML Control, nothing happens. Also, the scrollers normally take a few moments to scroll through all their gels when I turn on the lightboard, and they’ve stopped doing that.

Any idea of what I’m doing wrong is immensely appreciated.
 

JJBerman

Active Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Location
Middleton, Wisconsin
It sounds like the scroller power supply is not getting power. Make sure you have plugged the power supply into wall power or it is being powered through a relay.

The Eos software never deletes any showfiles, unless you go into settings and File Manager.
Try opening an old show again but instead of just double clicking on the first one, click the triangle on the left and a list will populate with every save you performed of that show file.
Also unless you expressly wrote Delete <palette> Enter on the command line, you may just need to fix your screen layout and everything will show up again.
 

GreyWyvern

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Location
Fort Wayne, IN
If the power supply is an Apollo Smart Power™, I would very strongly encourage you to ensure that the power supply is NOT plugged into a dimmable/dimmed source. Clean AC power only. The supplies in the unit will fail if they are not getting clean AC. There are a couple components that fail and that tells us it was getting dimmed power. It is user abuse and that is not covered under warranty, as it is clearly stated in several places to not plug into a dimmable source.
 
Last edited:

RonHebbard

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2004
Location
Waterdown, ON, CA
If the power supply is an Apollo Smart Power, I would very strongly encourage you to ensure that the power supply is NOT plugged into a dimmable/dimmed source. Clean AC power only. The supplies in the unit will fail if they are not getting clean AC. There are a couple components that fail and that tells us it was getting dimmed power. It is user abuse and that is not covered under warranty, as it is clearly stated in several places to not plug into a dimmable source.
@GreyWyvern Dave, possibly you might write a chapter further elaborating / explaining your statement for the benefit of the 'the great unwashed' [or whatever the generic term is these days] I believe what you are saying, suggesting, stating, implying is: "Clean AC power" is not sourced from a dimmer parked at 100% or a non-dim module that is anything but a mechanical "air gap" (clicks when it actuates) relay. "Clean AC power" is derived ONLY directly from a breaker, or fused disconnect, with zero electronics pre, post, anywhere within the path from the source to the load. Am I correctly interpreting what you're saying with no ifs, ands or buts??
Please Dave, spell it out and carve it in stone for the benefit of the host of folks who are sure to come along exploring 'loopholes' in what you believe you've already clearly stated.
I MAY be misinterpreting you Dave, PLEASE clarify and dot all the 'I' 's.
@GreyWyvern
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

GreyWyvern

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Location
Fort Wayne, IN
I believe what you are saying, suggesting, stating, implying is: "Clean AC power" is not sourced from a dimmer parked at 100% or a non-dim module that is anything but a mechanical "air gap" (clicks when it actuates) relay. "Clean AC power" is derived ONLY directly from a breaker, or fused disconnect, with zero electronics pre, post, anywhere within the path from the source to the load.
Simply put, yes. By "clean AC power", I mean a good sine wave. Since I had to read the first statement a few times to be sure I was reading it right, I will say to clarify that a "mechanical "air gap" (clicks when it actuates) relay" is fine because there are no electronics to chop the sine wave. So, for further clarification, a non-dim module with a mechanical "air gap" (clicks when it actuates) relay is fine. Any other type of non-dim module is not.

Okay @RonHebbard, did I sufficiently cross all my "I"s and dot all my "T"s?
 

GreyWyvern

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Location
Fort Wayne, IN

RonHebbard

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2004
Location
Waterdown, ON, CA
From page 5 of the manual:
@GreyWyvern As discussed in a PM, it would be "educational / elucidating / informative and generally "decent" to spell it out in plain English (& Spanish?) rather than charging folks for their inadvertent abuses of your products after the 'magic smoke' has escaped the container. I realize we're treading on lawyer-ease, semantics and interpretation here but it's feeling like a decent, fair, upfront, American thing to do.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

RonHebbard

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2004
Location
Waterdown, ON, CA
Not enough T's and I's make it more better...
@Amiers @GreyWyvern Agreed and speaking in FULL support.
If I was going to get truly anal, I'd suggest that 'old fangled' mercury whetted contactors are acceptable as well even though the majority of them don't "mechanically click". Thanks @Amiers for leaping on board.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.