Fiberglass Sleeving
- Thread starterjstroming
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Les
Well-Known Member
If you're replacing the sleeving on ETC fixtures, I would go with what they recommend (it probably has something to do with their strain relief design). Beyond ETC, the choice is yours as to what is appropriate.
Sony
Active Member
One of the tasks that I tackle every now and again is going through our 500 and some odd Source Four PARs and Ellipsoidals and replacing worn out insulation. I'm not sure what the reason originally was that we started using the 3/8" but we have kept using it because it works. That extra 1/16 of an inch really doesn't make that much of a difference expect that it is a little easier to push the wires through if they have any sort of crimp on the ends. I know we order ours through Insulation Supply Company. Although I don't know the exact product number... it says on the spool 3/8" 710C.
Ordered it 6pm yesterday, showed up today at our warehouse in Secaucus (gotta love McMaster)...It's MUCH better than the etc recommended sleeving. The wall is about twice as thick, which makes it alot more durable. Not cheap, but then again few things in life are. Bought 500'. Now I need to have one of my shop guys find those little rubber rings for the olflex connectors.......
bishopthomas
Well-Known Member
Who is "our?" I'm always looking for new rental sources. I use BML quite a bit, but if you're in the area too then maybe we can work together on some things. Feel free to PM me if you'd rather.
Really 1/4" Fiberglass 55-SLVF04BLK (TMB part number) would work best over that of a larger 3/8" sleeving size.
Overall, the ETC stain relief clamp is designed for a type #0 / 5/16" size of sleeving with what 16ga. wires are within it. A different sleeving could either stress the conductors or be too loose on the tension given a smaller size.
I have found that type 3M #69 fiberglass Electrical tape placed right under where the strain relief is helps a bunch in wear problems at the strain relief. Other than that, for an ETC Leko... don't mess with what is the proper part. 3/8" would be messing with that and a huge jacket over the conductors. This fixture is designed in cord grip for a #0 or 5/16" sleeving and that's the proper size to use.
On the other hand... speaking of McMaster Carr... they also sell a #0 size of vinyl coate sleeving. Such sleeving is a bit more abrasion resistant than normal fiberglass sleeving and in general is better to use. Otherwise McMaster #7468a22 Pliobond Universal Cement #20 for Nonporus Surfaces, seems to work really well in gluing back together frayed holes in jackets to cords as long as not too big. At some point, wet the frayed strands and glue them back together if not too large a hole. Saves tons of money.
Vinyl coated sleeving lasts longer, but otherwise where possible the rip or hole isn't too big, repair it. After that, I would only use a proper sleeving for the fixture to replace it.
Overall, the ETC stain relief clamp is designed for a type #0 / 5/16" size of sleeving with what 16ga. wires are within it. A different sleeving could either stress the conductors or be too loose on the tension given a smaller size.
I have found that type 3M #69 fiberglass Electrical tape placed right under where the strain relief is helps a bunch in wear problems at the strain relief. Other than that, for an ETC Leko... don't mess with what is the proper part. 3/8" would be messing with that and a huge jacket over the conductors. This fixture is designed in cord grip for a #0 or 5/16" sleeving and that's the proper size to use.
On the other hand... speaking of McMaster Carr... they also sell a #0 size of vinyl coate sleeving. Such sleeving is a bit more abrasion resistant than normal fiberglass sleeving and in general is better to use. Otherwise McMaster #7468a22 Pliobond Universal Cement #20 for Nonporus Surfaces, seems to work really well in gluing back together frayed holes in jackets to cords as long as not too big. At some point, wet the frayed strands and glue them back together if not too large a hole. Saves tons of money.
Vinyl coated sleeving lasts longer, but otherwise where possible the rip or hole isn't too big, repair it. After that, I would only use a proper sleeving for the fixture to replace it.
tschnuckel
Member
#0 or 5/16" black fiberglass sleeving (the same in different descriptions or definitions of it) is commonly found. Might be easier in finding it in those terms - no idea of how you can only find 3/8". I stock and sell it commonly as does every other lighting company, theater supplier, cable supplier, fixture maker, etc. Above including from ETC as a supplier. Where did you get your lights from? Ask them for such a spare part as per replacement sleeving? I see TMB, BML, McMaster, Production Advantage above in only scrolling up a few posts for sources. Literally everyone above as per every other lighting company, theater supplier, cable supplier, fixture maker sells it. Altman sells it - the same stuff, heck out of Iowa... Sitler's Supplies might even stock it if not be able to get it at least as a known supplier if not stocked.
Hope it helps
Hope it helps
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