What we are trying to re-create here is
Linnebach Projector. This type of
projector evolved from the early 19th century "Magic
Lantern" and with the
introduction of electricity and concentrated filaments, became a staple for very short
throw rear projection. It could also be used for front projection if there was a moderate to large scenic piece or
platform to conceal the
projector. The slides were
hand painted on glass or later acetate, and were rather large, a 2' x 3' slide was quite common. Some neat advantages to this type of projection is that it is always in focus and as long as the slide is parallel to the
screen, there is no key-stoning. At a 10'
throw distance, you could easily
cover a 30' wide x 20' tall
screen. Due to square law of light, the brightness dropped off rapidly to the sides which could be good or bad, depending on your desired
effect.
Drop off to the sides was reduced by increasing the
throw distance, but then total
intensity was less. Linnenbachs were used extensively in the early 20th century and were still quite common into the 1960's and 70's. I last used the
effect in about 1978 by removing the
lens and
reflector from a 5K Mole Richardson
Fresnel. Use faded with the development of
Pani Projectors, a very high
intensity, European
projector that could be used for front and rear projection. And today the last remainders of this type of projection are shadow puppets and the type of
effect the OP is trying to achieve, probably best exampled today by the dance troupe Pilobolus and also performed by one of the dance groups on America's Got Talent.
A linnenbach is basically a box with one side open and as bright and small a
point of light source as possible. 1500w was about the smallest lamp used for these and 5K was not uncommon. Unless you have a VERY good, accurate,
spherical reflector and your lamp
filament is VERY exactly at the center, you DO NOT want a
reflector or you will get double images and/or blurry edges on your shadows.
Depending on budget and how hard or soft you need your edges, a 300w or 500w hardware store work light, the rectangular type, 5" x 7" more or less, with a single T type lamp, might work just fine. Not sure whether having the lamp with the
filament in the vertical or horizontal orientation would work better for you. If this would work it's cheap, quick,
UL listed, what's more to like???