For me the insulated handle 8"
C-Wrench is the best tool for all cases but I don’t do shows these days much less for a few years have not at this
point. Never heard of some of the choices in tool nor useful to at least for me. Got another crew chief that says those with tool bags full of them sweep the floor instead of install the gear. This granted most of our gear is either provided for in tools needed such as
truss bolt or
wing nut for
truss in not mostly needing a tool, thus those using tools could damage the gear provided for the tour from
c-wrench bending said
wing nut to someone getting more advanced in “good idea” yet really bad idea in the end especially if they don’t ask first as often the case.
This granted its more touring in and out and onto the next place experience and gear so simplified that nobody IA or not IA dependant on crew or city should be able to screw it up which has taken years upon years to sufficiently simplify. (Deleted comment on pay verses serious screw
ups at times.) A replacement
wing arm eyebolt for a cheseborough costs at bulk 100x dealer cost $4.25 each color. Where possible in not being a structural or serious problem given a three minute repair rule for each when not structural to the
bolt, if a ding to the threads on the outside of the threads that is not holding weight, the tread file is used, otherwise literally hundreds of
swing arm
wing screw eye bolts per year are replaced which also requires lots of time in doing so. Largest problem is not some packing in a
road case of them and the dings from it, it’s someone using their 6" un-insulated bent steel 5/16"
T-Handle used to unlock coffin locks on
road cases to dog down the cheseborough while also screwing up the threads of the
bolt in my opinion.
In such cases where its necessary to dog down a cheseborough
wing nut, there is both gear on the market that is made to do so and I even make special tools cut out of a ½" square
nut T-wrench with a
groove in it for the wings of the
wing nut that work well in doing so without damaging threads. Primary question of course if one needs to dog down a Gr.2 at best
wing nut over finger tight and how to otherwise either do so properly with tool or come up with another rigging option for the
fixture. Concept also... ask first in doing so before doing so often not done. Got those T-Handles requiring me to cut a
groove in them with worm drive Skill Saw and metal cutting
bit with
T-Handle in a vise and a
bit more refinement after that after the cut. Works well on a
wing nut in a way similar to the 8"
C-wrench in my opinion something learned in proper tension known on a
bolt. 6"
C-Wrench could get proper tension but all a question of training as something new to what’s the norm in torque.
Still though that’s all normal application, on
stage I think the other tools might be more useful. For a tour, I think bring the tools and
park or chain them to a corner because what most often is required is provided or not required more than your proper finger tension.
A question might come up with such ‘God’ wrenches as with that debate on 6" verses 8" and no 10" or 12" C-Wrenches, the proper 1/4 turn past
hand tight on a
bolt in that seemingly proper torque now different in actual tension, if one can learn on a 6"
C-Wrench the proper torque now is given a different distance from the
bolt, where are these locations located on the multi-tools in assuming the 8"
C-Wrench standard proper or added torque
level for them?
Should be a fair enough question in if given differing tools and assmuming torque of a 8"
C-Wrench is fairly standard
base for torque, how does one assume on a jobsite with other tools a compliant with standard torque to what those with other tools are applying to what they tension?
