500Watt AlumiPAR and 575w/115v GLC/GLA lamps might be an overall better goal given your
throw distance. Leaves you some head room in
throw distance for going more wattage where really needed on specials or gobos that at times need to be brighter. Or at least, go long life GLC 750w/115v lamp so you still have the GLD or Philips #6981P for head room for specials. Can once 575w/115v go down to Ushio HX-400/401 or up to GLD/GLE in keeping
color temperature the same for maximum dimming needs - lamping the
fixture for the wattage required. This dependant on design, instead of dimming down at times a lot to match the scene and fighting amber
shift when not needing it at the wattage it is.
Dim the
PAR cans down to match the
Leko's you bring back into service. This will in your not really preferring them anyway will make them supplimental and not something to match up to. It will also extend their lamp life a lot which helps in cost effectiveness. Will of course be a change in seeming
dimmer on
stage, but I kind of doubt by much given the inneficiency of the
PAR Can beam verses that of a 575w/115v lamp. This especially once the
PAR can is dimmed down anyway at that range so it don't melt candles or makeup thus is useful. Hopefully something better to consider as a concept overall.
As for why the Cans got used and the
Leko's thankfully put away, back in 1986 when I was in High School, we had
Strand/Century
Leko's at school and the science or math teacher (I forget) that did the lighting and sound had this plan also. He didn't want to maintain the
Leko's.
PAR Cans were easier and his goal also. Never got away with that idea at my school at least, but it was out there at some
point as a concept in somehow "just as good."
PAR Can is really useful on
stage, but not the same obviously.
Radial Lekos you get back into service can be useful for less important things - they won't match the
color temperature of the
axial ones. Use them also, but secondary for stuff centered especially in the amber range when using them with the other higher
color temperature lamps - note the different
voltage even when optimized for
bench focus. Such
Leko's you might also as an option go 750w/120v and should be in the range of the
PAR Can's once dimmed down in this concept and only a concept with lots of options centered around going 575w/115v perhaps as a better overall choice.
Final note on working on the lights - the
PAR 64 lamp
socket should have sufficient tension to lift the lamp and perhaps survive a slight
bounce once lifted = a testing method if the
socket is still good. This in also removing the lamp to ensure it is not arched to the
base or shows damage overall as with other sockets.
