@Rose03 Try CB's "Search" for threads relating to burnt / arced sockets; the ills of placing new lamps in damaged sockets and ( in many posters' terms ) the rapid spread of the "infection" as users continue inserting new lamps only to have their contacts fried then moving these new, but "infected" lamps to other fixtures only to "infect" their sockets. Much has been written about this on Control Booth. @derekleffew has written about it extensively. The best / only answer is replacement of the socket AND only re-lamping with new, NON INFECTED, lamps. @ship Care to comment?
EDIT: Added 'Bat call' for @ship
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
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Les
Well-Known Member
You need this part. And as @RonHebbard (and surely the linked thread) has said, only put new lamps in the socket.
Bat Call for my favorite light!!! Sorry I missed it.
From what I understand you probably need a new G-9.5 lamp socket. And you are too far across the country for me to service the base + fixture for you - but probably time to also look into it in other parts to resurface or look into for full service call. This especially as a newly discontinued light - get it serviced before parts are gone... There are notes on this forum in what parts and how to do this.
Of note is important in sharing love of this favorite light. Once you put a perfectly good lamp into a lamp base of this size... never put the now bad lamp into another lamp socket/base or it will also corrode it in the new light the lamp was installed in. Once you get a bad lamp socket, if you put a perfectly good lamp into and it gets arched... if you put that lamp into another fixture, it will arch it's lamp socket as per spreading in a disease amoungst lights.
Easy enough to swap out a lamp socket in stuff on-line or on this website told about. This as something you love for a luminarie, you should know blindfolded how to assemble it if you want to sustain it. Otherwise if necessary I will restore it for you as per my favorite lighting fixture. Shipping cost and possibly parts with light markup, but not labor (off line). But I do instead want you to learn how to fix this light and if you want to start a thread on repairing it for help, best to help you learn to fish than fish for you. Fix your own light is best! Forum can teach you as design for it's intent.
From what I understand you probably need a new G-9.5 lamp socket. And you are too far across the country for me to service the base + fixture for you - but probably time to also look into it in other parts to resurface or look into for full service call. This especially as a newly discontinued light - get it serviced before parts are gone... There are notes on this forum in what parts and how to do this.
Of note is important in sharing love of this favorite light. Once you put a perfectly good lamp into a lamp base of this size... never put the now bad lamp into another lamp socket/base or it will also corrode it in the new light the lamp was installed in. Once you get a bad lamp socket, if you put a perfectly good lamp into and it gets arched... if you put that lamp into another fixture, it will arch it's lamp socket as per spreading in a disease amoungst lights.
Easy enough to swap out a lamp socket in stuff on-line or on this website told about. This as something you love for a luminarie, you should know blindfolded how to assemble it if you want to sustain it. Otherwise if necessary I will restore it for you as per my favorite lighting fixture. Shipping cost and possibly parts with light markup, but not labor (off line). But I do instead want you to learn how to fix this light and if you want to start a thread on repairing it for help, best to help you learn to fish than fish for you. Fix your own light is best! Forum can teach you as design for it's intent.
Rose03
Active Member
Thank you so much for all your help. I'll definitely invest myself in learning how to fix it as I want to keep this light going for as long as possible. Good to know there are people who share my obsession with this instrument!
The 3.x series was the first "Halogen" Leko invented (not by Altman), and was the first back in like 93' of quality Leko I designed with while designing shows outside of college. Even chatted with the owner of Altman over the phone in my dorm room about parts I needed to fix one at the time, in why I didn't get the parts I needed... long story. Following this, was perhaps the first person outside Altman to use on a show the brand new HX-600 lamp in one of my 3.5Q5's given that phone call and parts quickly sent. "Sorry we didn't get your parts out, we were all hands on inventing the Shakespeare at the time." Imagine the owner of the comany at the time Robert Altman, personally calling some punk kid in his dorm room, (repeated calls in finally finding me there) and re-calling about some snail mail letter sent. Than sending the parts free - too late for the show, but them and extra parts including the new lamp. Was the cool guy on campus for like a week among guys that worked their summer at High End Systems and had laser pointers.
I mostly did shows back than with a 9'+ ceiling and small space... Amongst found gear, this with the Leko of choice for all shows in designing around, the rest of the lights to supplement. Sold off my personal collection of 3.5Q a few years ago, though there is one I would like to get back some day. It had an iris in it... Never seen that before and probably not something factory. Yet it had one! Have a 3.5Q5 in museum, as with the other brands of 3.5Q, and some of the dual ended RSC 3.5Q fixtures at home currently focused on my work table... somehow some draftsmen in about 1964 figured out a reflector for a short 400w dual ended lamp, in making it optically efficient to make a Leko out of. Amazing as per the first Leko type to be designed around a halogen/quartz lamp. The Kliegl and Colortan versions of the RSC based fixtures have the advantage of lamping a 50w lamp as opposed to the 300w lamp minimum for the Altman.
But yea! Best fixture to compare to Strand Patt 23 or S-4. One of my Altman 3.5Q6 fixtures out punched on a gobo shoot a 575w S-4 fixture in similar beam spead while using the discontinued HPR lamp.
Also amazing the art I made over the years in small spaces with one type of favorite Leko.
I mostly did shows back than with a 9'+ ceiling and small space... Amongst found gear, this with the Leko of choice for all shows in designing around, the rest of the lights to supplement. Sold off my personal collection of 3.5Q a few years ago, though there is one I would like to get back some day. It had an iris in it... Never seen that before and probably not something factory. Yet it had one! Have a 3.5Q5 in museum, as with the other brands of 3.5Q, and some of the dual ended RSC 3.5Q fixtures at home currently focused on my work table... somehow some draftsmen in about 1964 figured out a reflector for a short 400w dual ended lamp, in making it optically efficient to make a Leko out of. Amazing as per the first Leko type to be designed around a halogen/quartz lamp. The Kliegl and Colortan versions of the RSC based fixtures have the advantage of lamping a 50w lamp as opposed to the 300w lamp minimum for the Altman.
But yea! Best fixture to compare to Strand Patt 23 or S-4. One of my Altman 3.5Q6 fixtures out punched on a gobo shoot a 575w S-4 fixture in similar beam spead while using the discontinued HPR lamp.
Also amazing the art I made over the years in small spaces with one type of favorite Leko.
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