There may well be 3V between tappings but it will take doctoring something to get it pre rectification... Besides, I'd have said that a higher voltage would be more room for voltage drop over long cable...
Any cheap multitap transformer will have 3 volts between some windings,I didn't bother with series resistors but it still works, it will probably corrode to death before it fails, but if you need to run off a higher voltage then a resistor in each line would be needed.I actually cannibalized an old intercom unit for the master station and used all the old switches, I think the total cost for a 6 way system was $15.
Jameco is taking you for a ride Charlie.So I've been re-spec'ing this project from Jameco, to try and get the cost down to a more reasonable figure.
Here are the part's I've spec'ed so far:
-$4.35 x 4 281658 Male panel mount xlr
-$5.69 x 4 281640 Female panel mount xlr (These two are not the most aesthetically pleasing, but hey, whatcha gonna do?)
(These are run-of-the-mill LEDs, right? So why are the pack sizes and price so dramatically different?)
-$.287 x20 1766614 Mounting hardware, 5mm led (To save on shipping I wanted to go all Jameco, but I have no clue what these look like, and how they operate. Anyone have a clue?)
More thoughts: I'd like to get some sort of strain relief on the DC in. The ME used some normal electrical strain relief, that one would see on a conduit box deal. That is an intriguing option. I'm not sure what those are called though. I also thought perhaps I should bump this up to a 9V power supply and apply a status LED in parallel with all of the cueing LEDs. So I'd need a resistor to drop it from 6V to whatever is recommended for the specific LED, probably 3V or so. Also, I have a question, can LEDs pass current if they die? Lastly, enclosure suggestions. I'm still a little shakey on what exactly I should go for, plastic/metal, what type, etc, but I just realized that Jameco sells enclosures, so I may poke around on there a little.
Wiring in parallel:
I've been thinking of what the "best" way of wiring these parallel loops is. I've come up with a "twofer" idea. Holding two wires right next to eachother, and then holding the third (source) up against the other two, like this: "====------" if that makes sense? That way I could put heatshrink tubing around the connection. Perhaps I should pick up a dremel for some of the work.
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