Vintage Lighting The heck on this box spot?

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Vintage Theatre Spotlight Stage Lighting Old Antique - eBay (item 200537001813 end time Nov-02-10 19:26:30 PDT)

So I did win this scary box spot off E-Bay. Think it's a 1900 - 1920's Capitol fixture by way of hole slots - but pre-the catalogue on our Wiki. Often it's a challenge to figure out in missing or replaced parts how the thing was done. A Century #1590 from between '47 and 62 as narrow as I can refine, in lamp cap assembly I invented for it type of stuff given I had a book with a drawing of it in rough cut-away was helpful. Still have a screw I don't know the purpose of, but it bench focused well today and as good as an Altman 360 with lots less adjustment. Granted also, only like an inch of lens train travel and a lot less than that for bench focus ability.

Anyway, got this box spot off E-Bay, it came with a replacement rear slide back panel. Could tell it was a replacement as it was aluminum plate, and slightly too thick to slide well. It also lacked any way of sliding it by way of handle or knob such a thing would have. Scary about the plate in addition to this, but possible for the times copied in replacement was the hole cut into it's bottom so both the wire could slide out, and by way of pulling that wire as taped to a #6 rayon coated stranded but conduit type non-flexible handle wire, one could focus it. Pull the loop in the wire and the lamp focuses.

So to focus the fixture, you kind of pull on this loop of hard wire attached to the base, and with it, the base wiring slides in and out thru a rough cut hole in the rear plate. Retaining focus was by way of friction against the sides of the fixture in the smaller than normal slide plate that ran that gap between the lower baffle and the screws to mounting the socket riding on the bottom of the fixture. No gide rail for it or real locking mechanism for cord grip or socket assembly.

Assuming that this hole and loop of wire in the base of the fixture with replaced rear cover wasn't what was done, I'm yet to figure out how it was done if different. This in also kind of thinking that perhaps this is one of the origional box spots due to evidence in the fixture construction. Rear slide plate bracket sticks outside of the body of the fixture - yet has the same spot welding as the rest of it. Very unusual a rear slide plate as opposed to a hinged one, this much less, the slide plate or rear cover sticks out further than th rest of the body of the fixture. There is no lower slide groove or even glide plates installed. Really stripped down and basic fixture, yet given the base down globe lamps in use very little to keep it there, and why than the lower cooling vents on the fixture? Or were they perhaps base up lamps for the fixture in using the lower bevel as a glide plate, and gravity? Even still than, nothing really retaning the lamp. Mounting screws to the lamp holder that the bottom of this plate glided on at least were in parallel with the lens and would tend to rock side to side within the fixture for lamp center especially as you focused it.

Stops for that focus was when the globe of the lamp either hit the lens or the back wall of the fixture - that stripped down in any engineering.

Could slide focus either way - though more likely base down mode, and there is like a 3/8" gap between the bottom of the fixture with #6 round head screws gliding along it, and the bottom of the cooling baffle. Enough to throw off the bench focus of for it's time a not so accurate 250w G-30 lamp in reference to the lens? This or expectations of how much quality light the fixture would throw? Don't know. 250w lamp that came with the fixture says "Base down to Horizontal." Why the lower cooling vents, don't know.

So it has no slide mechanism and theoretically, the lower baffle isn't a slide mechanism. It also seemingly glided on the heads of the socket mounting screws - yet I don't see any evidence of that in a pro-longed way. This grated that the #6 wire as wrapped around the rear mounting screw to the socket was larger than the screw heads in making this plate on an angle but explaing why there is no wear from screw heads sliding. Also with gravity perhaps it was on an angle but with gravity flat to the base in three point suspension. Front edge of the lamp glide plate and rear support by way of the hard wire loop pull mechanism. Really crappy way to do it, but no evidence of anything else done.

Next part of scarryest fixture ever done, or worst ever was it's rigging. When I got it, it was like a horse sound effect clapper prop in that the 1x6 (5" wide but old) lumber that had a rounded over bottom had come loose on the front. Walked about the shop with the scarry box spot in using the lumber as a lower jaw in saying Hi! to people. "I'm the most scary fixture ever invented."

People at the shop couldn't figure out what the heck I was pointing out, but this was apparently since origional, some type of table top fixture that sat on a block of wood and was very scarry. What was design verses origional I'm now trying to figure out. Some otherwise possibly later ambitious person - no doubt in re-wiring, replacing the back cover and confusing me now in what else was done, also painted the thing silver and screwed some old school wood screws into it so as to mount the lumber plate under it - or was the lumber origional?

In addition to this, the fixture had some cut off thick plumbers strap - kind of like fender washers in use with 1/4" stove bolts - round head screw with square nut mounted thru one of the rear cooling vents to the fixture. They were not tight, just there as if removed from some way it was later fixed up and rigged. Part of the upper cooling vent was roughly bent away and put back to mount the bolt. Was probably rigged some how and perhaps as a work light in a ceiling somewhere, but not how it will have been rigged, this much less I have no idea of why the lumber it was screwed to wich failed. Intereting also a flat head like #12 wood screw from outside and at the front of the fixture, and from inside it at the rear - easier to punch not drill, like #8 flat head wood screws.

There is no other holes in the fixture for lamp focus slides or how it was rigged if at all. Only thing under the lumber on the bottom of the fixture was rust - a lot of it. No rosette holes to one side or both, nothing in indication for more modern standards for how it was either mounted or how that lamp socket rear slide got done for locking down the bench focus. Possible this fixture did have a wooden base to it, and used three wood screws easily mounted to install it?

This also given the bottom flange of the rear of the fixture plate slide is bent over and spot welded to the base of the fixture. Very strange design for a box spot and given I have two or three different brands of it, by far different than others. So what am I faced with and how do I go about bringing it back to what it was when I don't know what it was or how it worked? How did that glide plate work? How was it rigged if not above a table top?


Final of interesting thing I just noted, the front gel frame is horizontal in bracket. Normally by the 20's for a box spot, they were vertical. This beyond an all steel spot welded fixture that started to go out of style in the 20's though not persay the case with box spots.

No idea of where to go from here in dating it. When for even starting did if Century, they start as a company, or did the box spot and or 400G-30/SP come to the market? When did incandescent fixtures come to the market even? Fuch's don't cover this detail in dating this one that has elements of something really really old.
 
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I always find your posts so cool...It's a joy to read about all these old fixtures and just the history of our cool toys :)
 
Looks like a slightly earlier version of this one. The line of five 11/16" holes at the top on the side is the same. Lens: 4.5" diameter. No reflector, nor evidence it ever had one. Lamp access is via the rear door, hinged at the top. Fixture 7.5"L x 4.75"W x 6.5"H, not including yoke. Yoke is interesting in that it's threaded for a 1/2" NPT, rather than a hole for a C-clamp. The frosted 100W A19 lamp is obviously wrong. Likely used a 400W G-30 med. screwbase lamp.

Not Century, as the company didn't exist then. Possibly Duwico, Columbia, or Display Stage Lighting. Probably originally had a paper label that fell off/disintegrated along the way.

Box_spot-frontside.JPGBox_spot-back.JPGBox_spot-bottom.JPGBox_spot-yoke.JPG
 
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Done some research into this box spot (found the Capitol catalogue, was where it should be, just wasn't looking for a green binding put away with other books.) Like an 18" stack of books on lighting searched thru. In the end I couldn't find where I saw such a slide gate rear access box spot before, or the fixture, but know I have seen such a concept before. Did find out that it's probably between 1911 and 1920 and my Olivalite is starting at 1913 in the avent of the single lamp 1Kw fixture.

Thinking about this fixture most of the day. Nope it's not the above - tough I don't have one and what you have is not Kliegl or Capitol Stage Ligting that I have - especially the Capitol ones. Same size holes in probably reverse engineering as you don't have a Capitol due to the length or focus slide. I have a Capitol that I didn't yet add to the museum, it's a #5 T.B. 7.15/16" long, 6.3/4" high, 5.1/8" wide. More important is that the slide is roghly on the center of it. Perhaps Display Stage Lighting for what you have? On the yoke mount, that's common, I have a Kliegl #53 with the same. Consider how it was stand mounted or with the 1/4-20 other hole used to mount to a pipe. Sock parts, see including for rosette the 1916 CSL catalogue.

Note on the other hand with your fixture and most box spots from them on the Kliegl website to any others that the gel frames are vertical. Mine are horizontal. Also the lack of the hinge, and the rear plate is bent outward for mounting that cover. The box spot on the other hand was for the most part c.1910 invention I think for a 100w lamp. Would have to check the LCL of the lamp you got it with and it probably will have been an upper globe pinch type vaccume seal lamp in use, but it's possible in 1910 for a box spot to have a 100w lamp as a theory. Would be a very different fixture in differernt LCL. (See below.)

Beyond that, no evidence of any past way of mounting it, the Capitol #6 with it's floor base stands is very similar except that the gel frame is wrong and there is no screws on the front. Concept perhaps is the same for it's purpose.

This fixture came mounted to a block of wood. Was like a clapper sound effect in the front screw having failed to keep the very seeming old lumber mounted to the fixture. What if that front screw in mounting by way of two wood screws punched thru the rear of the fixture, and the front flat head screw, was less to fix it to the lumber than in front flat head wood screw, to elevate it up from the lumber? This would given an only 1" screw - but possibly replaced, make it more like the 1937 catalogue #6 version of a box spot in concept. Perhaps some past user didn't know about the fixture's concept and secured this flapper as best he or she could later.

New concept given Daric's post and me measuring the #5 verses what I have. Perhaps I have stumbled upon a #1 series 100w origional box spot by accident.

My #5 T.B. measures 3.3/4" from the bottom of the fixture to it's focal center and has a slide mechanism for focusing which raises it up further. My perhaps in concept, #1 box spot from them has no slide mechanism - all missing but also no evidence of it's use. Still thugh this fixture in question measures 4.1/4". Perhaps this one was made for a 100w incandescent lamp of other than G-30 lamped shorter style.

Consultation of Fuchts 1928' lamp guide, that confuses the issue. 100A23 has 4.3/8", 100PS25 has 5.1/4" for any burn position lamp types. Base down spot light lamps: 100P-25 has 3" while the 250G-30sp was at also 3" as something more normal for a box spot. (smaller filaments as an example of why to use a spot verson of a lamp for a box spot.)

A half inch difference between say a common box spot known to exist and with some form of slide mechanism, that of mine that's higher at bench focus yet has no slide.

Brass tacks concepts that I'm working on for now in stuff solved. Seems as if a 1911-1920's Capitol Stage Lihting fixture of the say 100 thru 250w style - this even if it has the added lower cooling vent holes for the 400w fixture style in dating to say the guessed at 1914 to 1916 period. Perhaps it was later in rated for 400w. It's a Baby Spotlight, though in differing from the Kliegl versions with a rounded rear, Box Spot would be more proper. Doesn't have legs for tilting as per the 37' #6 version but the same concept in instead having a block of wood and adjustment wood screw at the front for focus.

Assuming this block of wood that came with the lamp was the base plate for the fixture, the only question I still have to figure out is the slide plate. Assuming that the wiring went thru a hole in the rear slide cover, what kept the lampholder at bench focus? This given it was a slide plate without a way of locking it to focus?

Or am I assuming too much in a very early fixture that perhaps was the inspriration for other improvements on fixture design concepts? Perhaps instead of trimmin wicks, the tech people had to re-bench focus the box spots a lot in them sliding?

Working on it over the weekend, believe I'm going to present this fixture with the above as a concept in presenting the fixture. Subject to change or better info. Focused by way of wood screw and friction for the glide plate. Not sure yet if I'm going to do another hard wire to pull with or a plate with knob yet. Still considering and leaning on the slide plate with knob or handle.

Derek, your bench focus is off a litle for an A-lamp, much less it will have been clear. But that's the idea in mine perhaps could have been for an A-Lamp as a concept.

Now what's with the rusty asbestos fixtres? Want nothing but rust left for the next generation? Beyond that, you often seem to have a personal photo of what you have in stock also... Assuming you are a sleeper collector, what do you have and where is it presented? Almost any community theater or other place would make room for such a public thing I would think.
 
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Had an idea today about the elevation mechanism. Panned out as a concept that might not be accurate, but will work. Thought was, what if the lower lumber under the fixture was a replacement but it still was some form of clapper system in use?

Mounted a piano hinge to the bottom rear so as to replace the two flat head wood screws loosely and not well driven into the board as per a hinge. While the holes were oversized from the use of them, the holes for mounting the hinge were perfectly aligned for mounting a square nut. Two flat head screws inside the strap hinge to square nuts inside the fixture fit perfectly.

The rear of the fixture is now hinged without adding any holes made. A tip holding mechanism is more difficult to figure out given no info or wear pattern of one shown on the body of the fixture. Somehow assuming it was hinged to a block of wood, one had to jack the fixture up short of blocks of wood shoved under it. For now, I searched thru my spare parts bins and came up with parts to a clip light - not the normal type, and modified it. Support mechanism will hinge from the front, dog down with wing nuts and allow for like a 15 degree thru 45 degree angle of focus. Probably wasn’t what was used but was within the technology of the day and given the starting point of that block of wood under the fixture, this will work. That block of wood could also be screwed to the stage and assuming one didn't trip over a cord feeding the fixture and knock it out of focus - tripping over a cord would knock most fixtures out of focus anyway, should work.

Further research: Fuch’s does show a Kliegl #66 Baby Spot without means of mounting, it’s got a lens train on it and round though so very different. Perhaps it sat in a foot light trough given no explination of mounting in the Kliegl catalogue. All Kliegl box spots in the 1927 book have a means of mounting. Fixtures in the 1926 Kliegl catalogue also have a system for mounting - this given it’s not a suspension system fixture - no holes for mounting the trim chains. Nothing of interest in the “home built equipment” section of Fuch’s either. Another check of the CSL 1916 catalogue shows nothing either by way of box spot they advertised or hardware within concept of how such a thing could be rigged.

Made a new replacement rear cover tonight, the last one I made was the same as the last replacement one only out of thinner plate. Looked at it tonight before painting and noted that it didn’t block light spill from the top. Bent and rolled a new plate that blocks the light and more matches the bottom of the fixture in bend. Also thinking hard about focus mechanism and can’t figure how it was done other than how it was shown for the most part. The old replacement cover had a rough cut hole in it so as to let the #6 solid core rayon coated wire out for focusing which had the fixture wiring taped to it. I did the same except made a smaller hole and rolled the edges of it. Still not satisfied with how the focus was done, or stays in place but perhaps that is the case.

I find that the lampholder slider plate is probably original. Has three holes in it, two close to each other - either who ever did a replacement socket for the fixture missed and re-drilled, or the replacement socket was slightly larger than the one replaced. Near as I can figure, as rated for 660w/110v and by LIP brand, this socket is really old but was as per the fixture “upgrade” really old in painting it silver, replacing the board under it and re-wiring/lamping it. While the #6 solid wire might have come with that “upgrade”, it’s all I have to go with for focus at this point given the rear cover was also replaced and there is no holes in the sides or bottom to otherwise get the wire out or focus it. Doubt it’s a fixed focus as that would have made mounting holes, and wasn’t done for a box spot without lens train.

Possibly Capitol 1911 thru 1916 in estimation of what age it is. Could be older by a few years. Definately not made for a G-30 lamp. Means probably a 1920's - 1950's “Upgrade” to the fixture. Had another look at the bench focus and a 150w A-19 lamp bench focus’s almost perfectly on center. (Didn’t have an old 100w A-19 in stock.) That 250G30SP lamp that came with it was ½" too short in bench focus. A ½" slider plate wouldn’t fit given the lower baffle - though possible in using the lower slider plate to keep it aligned. A lot of extra work in making the lower cooling vents though for just keeping the lampholder aligned. Would keep the lampholder mounting screws from scraping and the fixture from rocking though.

Given the A-19 lamp better bench focus’s, I had a look at how it fits on that glide plate. Back set enough from the front lens that the lamp probably doesn’t touch, with the addition of the square nuts for mounting the hinge, also now backset enough from the rear plate that it also wouldn’t touch either. Very specifically this slider plate with its three holes - the new one added with the replaced socket, I think it original. Just not sure about how the lampholder was mounted and focused. Dug thru the trash tonight for that #6 solid wire. Also countersunk the base plate for flush mount flat head screws. This isn’t original, but will allow me to have the base plate slide flat, this once I mount the solid wire to the top of the base mount instead of under it. This will allow me to be to be within 1/16" of bench focus for the A-19 lamp I think this box spot was designed around. Wiring will again be taped to the solid core wire and I’ll form another loop handle to pull with.

Replacement socket cleaned up well and I’ll leave it white. Found some Rust-Oleum Multi-Color Textured “Aged Iron” spray paint at the store today. Inside the fixture flat high temperature paint, the outside the texture paint which shows promise for other fixtures. Color is off a bit for most fixtures, but once I have that texture I can work with the final color over it. A bit too much white speck to it to antique in now being vibrantly aged in color. A coat of Kraylon #1310 “Dulling Spray” tones it down quite a bit, but I think that I’m either going to have to do a very light coat of flat black over it, or better yet find a bunch of dust and dirt and wipe it down some, than clean it. Texture paint works great though. Granted it’s only a 100w lamp rated fixture I think, what paint I have done to the outside shouldn’t be effected if used. For another fixture I might do a base coat of high temp and hope for the best afterwards if attempting to simulate paint. For normal use, I would use high temp. paint only and not be worried about a different color. Form does follow function.

Lens is very green which is interesting for such a small lens, fixture has no retaining ring groove in it which also lens to it’s age. No clips on the retaining ring either. Had to sand blast that ring also in getting rusty silver paint off it. Who ever upgraded the fixture did a complete job of something, age further took it’s toll in an old upgrade.

Finally, the board under the fixture is very old - can tell thru the silver paint applied . Not original paint - was I think black under, also given the front mounting screw placement and rear holes. Didn’t do a very good job of mounting the fixture to the lumber, and while it was sanded and beveled some, there is no other holes in it that would indicate it being used for mounting the fixture to a floor. Given the wrong lamp in the fixture, a replaced lamp etc... plus the lumber wasn’t even cut square and it was rough on some edges, I think not original. Why a fixture mounted to lumber anyway unless an adjustable base? I replaced the lumber base with a scrap sized to fit I had left over from my parent’s 1914 house. (I have a few pieces in stock from their house following work done in various closets or crawl spaces. Even if scraps and rough timber, it’s old lumber and good stuff in cleaning up well yet showing its age.)


TBA photos. Have to finish assembly, grounding and wiring. For what evidence I have, I know it was upgraded some time in the distant past, also by bench focus that it probably didn’t use a G-30 lamp. Mounting mechanism I’m only theorizing in how it was done, but the rest I’m fairly sure of. This other than the slide plate mounting to the lampholder way it was done. Poor design, but I think I have the spirit of the fixture.
 
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Looks like a slightly earlier version of this one. The line of five 11/16" holes at the top on the side is the same. Lens: 4.5" diameter. No reflector, nor evidence it ever had one. Lamp access is via the rear door, hinged at the top. Fixture 7.5"L x 4.75"W x 6.5"H, not including yoke. Yoke is interesting in that it's threaded for a 1/2" NPT, rather than a hole for a C-clamp. The frosted 100W A19 lamp is obviously wrong. Likely used a 400W G-30 med. screwbase lamp.

Not Century, as the company didn't exist then. Possibly Duwico, Columbia, or Display Stage Lighting. Probably originally had a paper label that fell off/disintegrated along the way.

View attachment 4035View attachment 4036View attachment 4037View attachment 4038


"Not Century, as the company didn't exist then." Not Century is interesting in that it's very similar to one attributed to it - to the left in the photo. I had meant Capitol Stage lighting - typo on my part in when both comapnies came out and possibly both being Capitol.

Differences in my photo between the 1920's-1937 version, being that the 250w #5TB on the left uses a single row of top cooling vents. For the one on the right, it's gel frame is different - earlier in style than say even something in 1926 will have been used given the horizontal slots. Earlier than either of ours given a lack of bottom focus ability also - mine has no holes at the bottom to focus. On the other hand, mine is more like the #6 version from that company with the double cooling vents but definately pre-either version given it will only lamp a 100w A-19 lamp and not a G-30 which is too high in bench focus.

Your 1/2" NPT isn't unusual as stand mount - I have a few of both versions of them already. A question of hanging or floor, table or stand mount.

Anyway, final photo for now - given this has to be around 1910 before the 250G30/SP came out.. texture paint as appropriate I applied. (Photo TBA for the morning - have not fixed my ethernet connection yet.)

(By the way, I also added new completed photos to the Kliegl #1165 post - shows the fabricated lamp cap and yoke for it and the Cyber 2.0 tree light post showing how done and what it and the PAR cans look like.)
 

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