Sorry it's long, I would liked to have cut down on it but am frequently the person people turn tool at work when considering what they need or should get thus I have a lot of info on it.
-Were I just starting out and looking for a very basic and general tool kit, I would probably get the soft sided tool box too. Heck I even recently bought one. It’s a lot easier than lugging around any of my other tool boxes much less the
road box. An alternative to this is that there are also some interesting shoulder bag and
backpack tool kits out there. Leaves you with free hands and once you start filling up the bag, They also tend even if soft sided to get heavy fast.
But you will also need a tool box for when your tool collection grows or for working in a constant place. Get one with a few drawers so you can better organize your tools and find them. You will quickly outgrow a cloth bag and need a second place to store the tools not required for the show you are working on anyway. Use a key lock for it and have a second or third key for it in your wallet, or other place such with your boss in case you loose it. Getting multiple locks keyed the same will save time later should you need to chain your tool box up or lock up something such as a locker later.
The tool bag and tool box are stop gaps. Eventually you will be needing a
road box proper if this is your career and you travel. A good one will cost a lot of money but be well worth it. You will also be needing a second set of at least the main tools for times when your tools are perhaps still on a truck and you are in the shop trying to get stuff done. Or if you have more than one place you work. Could also get an emergency
call one night that something needs to be done at the last minute and your tools are at work.
Don’t be offering your tools out to others unless they have demonstrated proper respect for them, or they have just as many if not more, but just not that particular one. Even than with such people, only loan them out with your permission. Your tools not their's and don't forget it. Do not allow people -even your friends into your tool box without your supervision, or when something becomes lost much less simply not there, you will be the one replacing it not any of the suspects.
People who don’t own their own tools need to make due with shop or the bosses tools not your’s. The shop and the boss have the budget to replace them, you do not. Plus they have the
power to enforce making people buy their own, respect and use properly the tools available and enforce their
return. Otherwise there is no need for such people without sufficient personal tools to spend their own money on their own tools or develop the respect for what they borrow, much less the need to
return them to you immediately at the end of the day or when they are done with them and not just leave them laying around. That respect comes with spending their own money on them instead of going out to eat every day or making "friends" with the person that shares their tools. Why should you invest in tools if others don’t also, you don’t make any more money than they do. If someone needs to borrow something for a moment, either suggest the other options or make sure it’s only for a moment. If it’s not returned promptly, get it back and don’t loan to them again. If such people make it a constant borrowing, tell them they need to get their own because you need your tools and they should get their own anyway, than direct them to the boss for future loans. Again, you seem to be able to budget for personal tools, why shouldn't they? It’s a nasty habit of keeping an open tool box for anyone to grab stuff from. Don’t get into it or you will quickly notice missing or broken things that will be a constant drain on your budget.
Things I think are very important and needed right away would have a (*) preceding it. Otherwise, it’s more of the starting tools most people have when working on professional calls or at shops and thus what eventually you will probably be buying anyway if this is to become your career or pastime. (***) Preceding items are officially and specifically required at the lighting company I work at and others I have worked for and (**) are Items that were suggested on another forum as normal lighting tools.
In the tool case I would put the following in it depending on what I was expecting to be doing: (Most people don’t try to pack both electrics and carpentry tools in the same bag for calls and that's the normal use for a tool bag as opposed to a tool box. Depends upon what type of job you are trying to do, what tools you put in it. Now you will be needing to learn both fields, but after the basic set of tools for both plus some for other fields, you really need to start focusing on one area.)
[Tools used for Both fields:]
-16oz or 22oz hammer (depending upon if you expect to be a electrician or carpenter. Carpenters hammering large nails need the larger hammer, but they also frequently need the smaller one for finish nails. Hammers are usually provided by the shop anyway so you don’t absolutely need one right away. However if you plan to be using one all day long, get used to one weight and brand/style or if you
switch you will get blisters. They all have different handles and feels to them.)
***-8"
C-Wrench/
Crescent Wrench (It’s the standard I was taught at school and it’s specifically the size required in the shop I work at. If not a most of them)
But that’s a debate for another day. What ever you buy, get a good quality brand such as Klien or Craftsman, it’s warrantied and will last a lot longer. Other’s don’t have straight jaws, don’t keep their position and or just fall apart or seize up with time. There are some good quality 6" extra wide jaw C-Wrenches available by mail order out there, but I’m still sold on the proper leverage of a 8" wrench. The debate goes on. Standard 6" wrenches don’t have wide enough jaws to fit a lot of what you work on and are not heavy duty enough to un-stuck bolts. Insulated handle wrenches are comfortable to use all day long and give just a
bit of added protection against shorts. Always put the large size into the direction you are turning. It keeps the jaws from opening up and stripping the
bolt.)
*-Wrench
lanyard (Kind of like a phone
cord with hooks or rings and necessary for all tools used overhead in the industry.)
**-Sharpee, Pen and Carpenter’s Pencil (You should provide these unless in school or work provides them. An innitial set of all of them with other things such as paint markers normal pencils and other things should be your
purchase as replaced by the shop as needed.)
**-AA Mag Light, Extra Batteries & Pouch (Don’t forget the extra batteries. Many shops will furnash replacements but don't depend upon it. Unfortunately re-chargable batteries don't have as long of a chage to them so they are not that useful.)
*-Leathermen (That is what ever brand of multi-tool you buy. I have a Super Leathermen but lots of people like the Wave. Were I buying, I would probably go with a Xcelite/Cooper ToolZall Electricians Pro, it has
wire strippers which could be handy on a ladder in addition to the more normal features.)
- A small pair of Forceps or Tweezers (for pulling slivers and getting small parts.)
*-Electrician’s
Scissors (Cuts anything including patterns.) This tool is usually not mentioned as a needed tool but in my opinion is one of the most important to buy. Klien electrician
scissors are the standard and extremely useful. Use mine every day for all sorts of things.
*-Backstage Handbook (Too many useful formulas not to have. Also plenty of room for your own notes.)
***-10
in One screw
driver having all the basic screw
driver bits on it. (I don’t own one but most new people get one) This is the cheaper alternative than buying four or many more individual screw drivers and will fulfill most needs in the immediate future.
There is a difference between cabinet tip and normal or square shank screw drivers. Normal bladed screw drivers have a
bit more steel at the blade and are thus perhaps a
bit stronger, plus with a square shank at least on the 1/4 or 5/16"
flat head, you are able to grab it with a
C-Wrench for extra leverage. The cabinet tip of the same size however is also needed because it will allow you to get into small places such as the slot of a lamp
base on a 2Kw
Fresnel. Don’t buy stubby tools initially, they are not much more useful than right angle screw drivers in
ease of use or other than occasional need.
*-7"
Wonder Bar II (Small,
Portable but really useful.)
***-9" Linesmen’s Pliers (Anything smaller isn’t going to give enough leverage or be able to cut up to a 1/4"
bolt or 12/3 SO cable without much difficulty. Plus, unofficially they have about the perfect weight to be a good hammer in a pinch.) Standard
Slip Joint pliers are okay for home owners but not very useful in the theater. I don’t even own a pair. Never needed them, there are a lot more tools that will do the same job better.
**-10" Curved Jaw Vise Grips (Needed for gripping things round and
flat.)
***-Diagonal
Wire Cutters - Dikes (Get Hardened Steel ones for cutting about anything including staples much less for staying sharp with use.) Always look at your tool when you buy it. Does it’s blade touch and match up along the entire length of the blade or is it at a slight angle. Is there any
play at the hinge and even though smaller dikes are seemingly more comfortable, will they allow you to cut say a 12/3 cable without a lot of effort, much less are the blades large enough to open that far?
***-16 to 32pc 3/8" Drive
Socket Set (6pt. Deep Throat if there needs to be a choice) One
socket is about as good as another, but make sure that the ratchet has a warranty, you will probably eventually break it. 6point Sockets have less chance of stripping bolts.
**-Folding
Allen Wrench Set (Anything from adjusting tools to fixtures, Can be and eventually will be a normal individual “L” Allen set, but it's lots easier to loose individual pieces. Also you will eventually be needing a metric set.)
***-Leather Work/Rope Pulling Gloves (They should have a tight fit and a draw string or
snap. Never wear gloves while using a
power tool. They can get caught and suck your
hand in as opposed to possibly getting cut by the blade but being able to get your
hand away. Getting a sliver is small compared to getting your glove sucked into a saw blade.) Two pair of gloves is also a good idea. One for pushing gear and handling new or oily steel than another for rigging or focusing lights.
**-25' Tape Measure (I usually carry a 16' with me and have a 30' in the box.
Fluorescent colors are good)
*-Liquid Bandaid, Aspren & Bandages (Usually provided... let’s see... somewhere around here. - Bring your own.)
***-5/16" Allen
T-Handle (
Coffin Lock &
Road Box Key)
***-Retractable Blade
Utility Knife with both straight and hook blades (I like the ones with the quick
release buttons. The hook knife blade is a much better blade to use when de-looming/taping cable.)
[Electrics:]
*-7" Tapered Nose
Conduit Pliers (incredibly useful all around especially for
fixture strain reliefs and
conduit nuts, needle nose in a pinch,
bolt holder, pipe holder
etc.)
**-12"
Channel Locks (Lets you grab big stuff)
***-Calculator style multi-meter if not Amp Probe (A clamp style multi-meter is a
bit more money but if you plan to make a living at this, you will be needing to verify your
power loading in addition to more normal things. Otherwise just get a small calculator like
portable one. Most people just buy a normal
meter, but eventually also need the clamp style, and one of better more accurate quality such as a True
RMS meter. Might as well if making an investment
in one, get one that does it all. Don’t let them get cold in the winter, the electronics freeze especially on cheap meters.)
***-Wire Strippers - Spring Activated (not a multi
crimp/strip tool with only one specific exception) You can get more work done and easier with a good pair than a pair that tries to do everything. It’s also more comfortable to use and will do a better job of stripping
wire.
**-Double Jaw
Crimp Tool (This is the proper
crimp tool once the front cutters are chopped off.) Other more normal crimpers or multi-tools won’t have a good
crimping surface or provide enough leverage to give a proper
crimp. Don’t believe me, try screwing something you
crimp with your normal amount of pressure to a wall and tugging on it.
**-5/8"/3/4" Ratcheting Box Wrench (
Speed Wrench for ½" Clamp bolts & Clamp 1/2" Set Screws. Avoid offset wrenches, they don’t fit into tight yokes as well.) Offset ratcheting box wrenches are needed for carpentry however because the straight types will mar the surface as they tighten the
bolt.
**-Power Sniffer (Very useful in
tracking down problems or verifying a
circuit is safe.) Invest in a good quality one, your life is on the
line and you want it to be a quality tool protecting it.
[Carpentry/Rigging]
*-Safety Glasses & Ear Plugs (Usually provided but you should own your own.) Invest in a glasses
lanyard to put around the glasses so when you take them off they are still with you. Less chance of getting them broken or later not using them because you are too lazy to go
track them down for a quick cut. Ear plugs are also best with at least a
lanyard if not a head band so they are removable and you don’t dirty them with your fingers when having to put them in. The better ones are also available in the 20db range for more protection.
*-Nail Set (Very important to have in your pocket for nails and staples.) There are many types of punches and cold chisels that are useful but a standard
nail set is what’s most needed.
Above that, I usually have: (Depending upon what I’m doing Carpentry or Electrics)
[Both:]
*-Light Weight Tool belt with mountain climbing type Chalk or zippered
lens Pouch for screws or parts (Could be a simple carpenter’s belt or just a light belt with a few specific latching pouches on it. A light weight pouch is useful because of it’s light weight and lack of bulk. True carpenter's aprons get really hot and heavy on a hot day. In any case this will save your pants from it’s pockets being chewed up by a tape measure and a
C-Wrench.)
**-Electrical Tape (Provided, but you should also have a
roll in as many colors as you can anyway.)
-3/8" Drive 15/16" Deep Throat
Socket (
Cheeseborough Socket)
-Carpenter’s Calculator & 6" Scale Ruler (Very Useful when working off plans)
-1/4" to 9/16"
Nut Driver Set (Good for Electrics & Rigging.) 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 7/16" and ½" are the normal ones, but 9/16" is good for 3/8" bolts too.
**-Box Wrench Set with sizes from 1/4" to at least 3/4" (also a metric one eventually)
*-100' Tape Measure if not provided, Useful in laying out the
stage & hanging points. It should be provided by most shops but if you are on a
stage, it might not be.
[Electrics:]
-14"
Pipe Wrench (Usually provided but sometimes you cannot find it.)
-Gam Check (Very Expensive test tool, but worth it.)
-Pin Splitter (Two styles available, one for 20 and 60amp & one for 20amp and cleaning.)
-Palm Lynx (Micro Mini Light Board for doing a lot of stuff, about the size of a wallet, but very expensive.)
-Duck Bill Pliers (Stronger than needle nose but tapered and with a wider jaw.)
-DMX tester and various terminators and
DMX/
XLR adaptors.
**-Needle Nose Pliers (Good for Staples, but your Leathermen will do in a pinch.)
*-Cordless Screw
Driver. A good one will be 3.6v, Have removable battery packs, (buy an extra one,) a blade lock, trigger lock and locking quick
release for the bits. Plus a angled handle is more ergonomic. Also having dual speed is nice in having a choice between high and low gear with lots of clutch settings. The best ones are from Panasonic and Milwaukee - both made by Panasonic. They cost at least three times that of a normal cordless screw
driver but will provide constant - all day
power and have more torque and other features than a $30.00 one. Normal Cordless tools are just not worth the dollars you save on them. Another option would be to go with the slightly more heavy 7.2v DeWalt cordless screw dirver/drill. It’s not much of a drill but would provide a good cordless screw
driver.
[Carpentry/Rigging]
-Chalk
Line (Make sure it’s full and blue is about the standard color, makes a good
plumb bob also.)
-1/4" thick Speed Square (for use as a saw guide, 12" is a good size. Smaller than 1/4" thick and your saw will jump over it.)
-Long thin blade 3/16" cabinet tipped
Flat Head Screwdriver for use in adjusting tools especially changing the blades on older styles of jiggsaws.
-Combination Square (For
layout and scribing. Much more accurate and easy to use than a speed square. Most have levels in them, Don’t let them freeze.)
-12" Magnetic Torpedo
Level (Small but very handy - magnetic so it can stick to rigging or metal frames. Remember, it’s water. Don’t let it freeze. Might be treated for low temps but why chance it?)
-C-7 Falcos/
Wire Rope Cutters (For rigging work, very useful to just have your own.)
-Large Wood Chisel/Paint Scraper (Using a chisel is bad for general work, I have a reinforced Wagner
Power Scaper with original style wooden handle that’s been heavily reinforced for hammering on it. It’s knife sharp for doing things like cutting foam and strong enough to act as a nailing plate, chisel and scaper. Plus it cuts small nails and staples like a pay bar. Easy to grind a new tip on it as opposed to on a chisel.)
-1" Soft
Putty Knife (Good for removing shipping tags and applying materials. Get your own soft one because most shops just buy what ever is cheapest.)
-Metal Scribes and De-Burring Tool (For use in metal working and removing little burrs in material.)
-Wood
Rasp or Surform Tool, Bastard and fine/oval files (Good for finishing work)
**-Parachute bag of misc. Drywall Screws, Plugs and Fasteners. (Frequently you need one or two more or a size not stocked.) Also adaptors.
-Filtered
Face Mask. (Have to protect your own health because what is normally provided is not very expensive or good in protection. Plus if it is good quality but from the shop, when is the last time the filters were changed. Plus wearing other people’s masks is a good way of sharing any colds they get.)
-Small knife sharpening tool. (You don’t need any fancy wet stone that takes a lot of time and care. Most stores sell a little tool with blade guard you swipe across the blade. They work really well and are easy to use.)
-Chisel Set. I don’t recommend buying your own unless the shop you work at will pay to have them re-sharpened for you. Once they get dull they won’t work so you might as well either not use them or use the shop ones given they maintain them.
As for my drill, it lives in a shoulder holster with a secondary
bit holder pouch on the strap for some common Drill Bits, a #6
Countersink bit, a few extra assorted Philips,
Flat Head and Square Drive Bits, a Locking/Magnetic
bit holder, Step Drill
Bit, and locking 3/8" Drive
socket adaptor.
In addition to that I will have two to three batteries, a charger and usually a 64
bit drill index and some metal cutting
countersink bits. I use a shoulder holster because hanging your drill off your belt gets in the way and really starts to weigh it down. I also have a clip on
lanyard on my drill for use overhead. It clips directly to the holster so it’s out of the way and is much more heavy duty than a belt loop. Rather not consider dropping it and breaking it verses falling myself while on a ladder and in the moment, but saving the tool. Most shops will provide you with a screw gun that is at least adequate. Eventually you will buy one, but get basic
hand tools first and study what you other people use and like or dislike about their tools. A good one is a major investment anyway, don’t skimp on cost.
After that, think the first tool I bought was a Super
Sawzall, than a industrial quality Jigsaw, a Worm Drive Skill Saw, than Medium
Router...
etc to the
point I now have more or better powertools than most shops I work at. I own about 8 drills, 4 types of
power saws, three types of
router and three sanders alone. But that's me and I get paid extra for the tools and skill I bring with me.
But that’s me and I usually am expected to travel heavy, and these tools would be traveling very light for me. Usually my
road box goes to the install.
Don’t just put colored tape on your tools, it falls off. Scribe your name into them, and spray paint or at least paint marker your colors. The more you invest in a tool, the more it’s going to stick in your head not to leave it laying around or who borrowed it, and thus the less tools you will loose when you close up and lock your tool box. Buy tools not only by price, but more importantly by their ergodynamics and quality. If your Philips Screw
Driver strips out after normal use in a year, how much real value was it to you especially towards the end of it’s life when it’s difficult to drive screws with, but you are not ready to replace it? Consider what the tool would be like to use it all day for 8 hours straight. Is some hard plastic handle with sharp corners really going to be comfortable? Why buy something cheap that’s going to last you a few months inadiquately when you will only have to replace it eventually anyway? Even if this is not to become your career, a good tool will last you a long time around the
house for fixing stuff. Also, you get what you pay for.
Anyone interested, about two years ago I started keeping a list of at least the electrical supplies in my
road box or tools I special ordered for other people from $450.00 multi-pin
crimp tools to Forceps. How much the bulk of the tools cost as priced out amongst a lot of sources and what specific tool type and part numbers are highly recommended and considered the best in quality. Granted some of the prices might be old and a few others specific to company employees but it would in general give some good sources. Otherwise, most of the sources would be posted on my working list of links you could surf for prices and tools.
One final note would be that if your crew pool together your wish list into one big order, you can have the TD or one of your dad’s walk into a contractor or electrical supply store and see what they can do for all of you on a large order. (Sorry but most contractor supply stores won't give you much of the time of day in discount or consideration while young.) You are also going to be assured of getting quality tools at such places. For instance at work we have somewhere over 50 tech people. I was tasked with pricing out various clamp meters for them to be bought in bulk. Amongst the six best in price with their own features the tech people will be able to choose. When I get between 5 and 10 people per type of
meter, I’ll place the order on it. Usually it’s like $25 off when you buy over 10 at a time of a
meter usually selling at like $150.00. Otherwise, I was able to find decent meters for about $50.00 when bought in quantities over 5.
Same with tools, the more you buy or the larger an account your school or pop has with the company, the more you save.
That and Sears usually has packages of Klien electrician’s starter tool sets at a good price. McMaster Carr a mail order company is another really good source for reasonable priced quality tools.
Also Grainger has a good sale on this month on all sorts of tools.