Radial Leko service call


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Been working on my own Altman 3.5Q5, 3.5Q5.5 as some seem to be by way of new lenses but original shorter lens trains, and 3.5Q6 in addition to some Century 4.5Q6.5 radial , Altman 6x9 Radial and possibly pre-Altman Kliegl 6x9 Radial of late - many examples of early versions that are different than I remember or how they should be. Such fixtures also by far different than the other radial Lekos I remember service calls to but less so in depth by way of making them new again them I remember as somewhat easier. One might say that I have of late now run the gambit of old Lekos for their earliest designs by way of re-wiring and re-surfacing them at this point in a way I have never done so before. I have worked with older fixtures still but none as much in depth. Now that I’m back to trying to remember how to bench focus a Altman, much less in attempting to make a radial Leko look good, it’s quite the experience but in the end I think I now hae it mastered again. Four screw Altman Lekos can be a challenge if one does not know where the lamp base plate sould be.

My own Lekos, I’m using the HPR on so it’s a flat field and as long as the reflector is centered on the lamp, the lamps’s elevation in true bench focus is much harder to judge by thus all in bench focus were possibly crap in for a goal making a hard edge or discovering three lens types and three lens train sizes per two types of fixture. The 4.5Q6's were not much more successful in broken lenses at times, and all around substitutes that were slightly different in focal length. Just could not get a good bench focus out of more than a few of them, but I tagged the fixtures that needed replacement lenses at least. Final project was the 6x9's. Half were discovered to be early Altman - one even with pattern slot - another with the bracket but no hole cut in the cap for it, than some even older fixtures that used a different means of mounting yet very similar. All radial fixtures from the early days of 360 series radio Leko.

Towards the end I did figure out again my task. First take note of in opening the fixture at it’s center and looking at the filament by way of where it is in the reflector, than the bench focus to refine this centering. Also while looking at the beam and how much of a hard edge to it one could achieve, look to where the lamp base plate is in mounting the lamp. If too far foward in comparison to other Lekos similar, bringing the lamp base back by way of what’s noted with other fixtures is important here. Look at the lamp base plate, than at the lamp from the half open to the fixture readyness.

In the end I did re-master to the extent possible this trade of ability to focus a radio Leko and was surprised by achieving in the end a flat field of focus for what the lights is. Tough skill this bench focusing a radio much less een axial Altman Leko. Very much worth it to spend one’s time on however.

This and in addition to my own lights, Much time spent with other fixtures in making them premium. Glad the bench focus worked out given it’s hard work turning 40+ year old fixtures into ones someome can depend upon. Intent is there and while the next group of six are not optimum instruments they will throw a directed light onto stage. Just a few dozen more fixtures to optimize. In the coming years, all fixtures will be ready to go by way of my hand no matter how ancient and inefficient.

On some especially I had to add a sub-refletor to the ancient and rusted gate reflector assembly - this in addition to ttreating the mounting means had to be adjusted for. Could not re-reflectorize a totally surface rusted gate reflector thus did my best to add new gate reflector atop old mounting means for it. Amazing how similar to each other these fixtures are.


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confound the limits on photos, more to show on the project but I am at some form of limit in how many can be posted and I can't figure out how to do more. Will post to Mayhem who is more computer savvy in showing the photos for me if he will. Large project to totally re-wire that which was once asbestos and never given a service call since or it done in a very hack sort of way. Lots of rust to remove than treat and amazing for me in the end that I'm getting a fairly flat field for what they are for inefficient fixtures yet still not so bad.
I'm hoping that this post is useful in doing and photoing very old Lekos in service call. Such fixtures when done correctly than bench focused can while not be S-4 can still be just about as good as a 360Q fixture still if maintained in output and flat field. No, the below fixture with pattern slot I probably would never do a pattern in, yet still for a flat field in Leko, once optimized - takes practice I probably only sufficiently found 2/3 of the way into, once optimized they can still be a very good Leko.

12 Radial Lekos so far re-surfaced and re-wired (a bunch more to go), 6 were Century 4.5Q6, 3 were Hub 6x9, the last three 6x9 were either a later model of Hub or early Altman but not the earliest version of Altman if Altman. For the most part all fixtures were using the same still standardized parts during this generation of fixture including especially main reflectors and lenses. GE it would seem was making the really old lamp bases, than they become more or less random in brand after this yet still fairly standardized in design.

In the area of the shutters, while all were similar and used the same shutters themselves now replaced: One had a slot for a pattern holder cut into it’s frame thus was designed to hold gobos, another had a gobo bracket but no slot thus a replacement part in the fixture, a third had the same basic hardware but no gobo bracket or slot. Of the Hub, they were using completely different parts in this area and two different lot numbers of doing this by way of reinforced plates. Interesting also that spreader plate size is the same in all but thickness at times.

The Century fixtures were all the same or similar in many ways especially at the shutter and lens train.

Also of note was a bunch of misc. sized lenses of by at times just a fraction of an inch and one set of Hub 6x9 step lenses I find fascinating but total crap to work with.

For lenses, a trip thru the dish washer alone with a fresh filling of the “Jet Dry” glass cleaner works well for all old lenses. The next problem is in getting the now very clean lenses into the fixture without finger prints or dust on them. Latex gloves are good (Non-latex for women) but only to the extent that one doesn’t touch the graphite coated lens train thus again dirty lenses. Doing the re-install of lenses is one of the hardest jobs to do in ensuring they are clean. Often I found myself re-cleaning them with denatured alcohol and lens tissue so as to remove lint or finger prints. Than still at some point accepting what best I could do. This and with old lenses but no budget for new ones, accepting the wrong in chipped or slightly the wrong focal length lenses in the fixtures. Green verses blue lenses was also off the books for now in looking at. Still as long as if rusted or sharp edges on it the lens retaining ring was wire wheeled, I was ensured lenses would not be cracked further. This given one or two that busted all by them selves once removed. Lenses were their own game and not easy to deal with by way of how much of a chipped lens would require replacement some day given they are radial Lekos or by way of size what makes one 1/16" shorter sufficient to replace? The step lens beyond all threw me, it was sort of 6x9, but than again not really by way of what it looked like. This in addition to the 4.5Q6 lenses that were somewhat random in extent of chipped or size I was finding. I know I replaced one with a Altman 101 lens I had as extra. Don't know if it was similar other than being smaller but at least in a crap fixture, it was something in the range of semi-focused light. Not sure if for such fixtures more than some extent of focused light is worth investment after that. The 4.5" Centuries just were not playing nice as opposed to the 6x9 in bench focus.

Given how industrialized where I work seems at times, I could given the success of dish washer to clean the lenses as concept to be installed in our own Leko prep department. Spent a few months working for a pizza joint back in high school washing dishes, the industrial dish washer I am very familiar with. I could just about see were they not primarially “dichroic coated lenses” in the ETC fixtures, could see a industrial sized Leko cleaner in our Lekoland prep area. Than from Miss “grumpy” crew chief of that area, monthly statements to me in “I’m out of dishwasher soap!” She has a certain amount of constant pissed off coupled with lack of manners in telling people what to do or what to get for her. Still I could easily see a industrial sized Leko dish washer installed in Lekoland. Great job and no doubt would remove pyro dust well.

Photo Explinations:

029, The gate reflectors on all Century, Altman and Hub lekos were totally rusted.

Bought new Altman 360Q gate reflectors that sleeved in between that of the Century gate and reflector proper without a problem but were a little shorter. (Different mounting system on the Century thus the need for the old gate reflector still to be used.) Sanded down the rusty gate reflector and high-temp. painted it. Photo is of a Altman 360Q gate reflector sleeved inside of a Century gate reflector. See note below on other styles of gate reflector.

030, A mass of rusted, re-painted, new and old but still in good shape reflectors. Note in gate reflectors - the two dark ones, two very different types of them which is based off of how they are bolted to the fixture. This verses the new Altman Gate reflector also shown that had holes that were very close in lining up to some 40 year old rusted versions potentially from another brand. Not shown is a aluminum old style replacement or newer style gate reflector with 90 degree flange such as used on the Hub reflectors that don’t have internal mounting flanges cast into them. The newer aluminum gate reflectors were the exact same size as the 360Q altman gate reflector in overall size and had to be cut away to sleeve in the replacement 360Q gate reflector yet still use the flange to mount them. Aluminum reflectors on the old style were shot or hopelessly bent out of shape. In the case of the three perspective early Altman fixtures where there was a internal mounting bracket for the reflector assembly, the steel gate reflector could be replaced completely. One Hub fixture still had it’s origional rusted gate reflector, the other two had upgraded aluminum ones were similar in size negating sleeving new style Altman ones thus cutting away at them.

The old Alzark aluminum reflectors for all fixtures once cleaned were in good shape.

031, The Century 4.5x6.5 fixtures used a steel pineapple and aluminum mounting for the lamp base. The steel on these inside and outside was totally rusted thru and needed sanding and aggressive use of a wire wheel to remove both what paint was still on them and the pitted surface rust. It was my choice not to remove the paint from the aluminum in keeping the fixtures still to some extent factory.

This flat black was somewhat close to the original flat dark grey I found coloring the fixtures.

032, Century 4.5Q6.5 lens train. The slide portion of the lens train had to be wire wheeled completely so as to remove old graphite and rust. A new layer of spray on Teflon supplemented graphite was than applied to them. The inside of the lens train while showing damage was not touched at this time but probably should have been sanded and painted. The lens train tubes of the fixtures were also either left alone or sanded/wire wheeled with graphite added to them.

033, Lamp Bases. All lamp bases were shot as were any and all lamps installed in them. All needed total re-surfacing if not replacement. Special and important note is if you have a Radial Leko and it has a very original GE lamp base in it, it’s terminal screws do not come out. Destroyed one lamp base by way of attempting to get the screws off. It will say GE at the central contact point of the lamp base. This is probably the original lamp base at least Century was using. 20 lamp caps re-surfaced, four could not be saved due to porcelain breaking on them or central spring contact having lost it’s tension.

Best option for re-surfacing a P-28s Medium Pre-Focus lamp base is a Dremmel tool with a fine finish silicone abrasive bit on it. Than a coating of electrical contact cleaner/lubricant so as to re-treat the surface. As shows in this lamp base, do both the central contact (hot) and it’s outer shell (neutral) - both are needed to conduct well but especially the central contact. The best one can on re-surfacing the center contact is often sufficient, intent is to provide a smooth contact area and as much contact area as possible. Some pitting by way of stamped brand of lamp base and or pitting from arching in the past will be OK. Don’t completely wear down the lamp base and be mindful of it needing a flat surface area. Still, where surfacing is involved, it needs to be smooth and flat, and the oxide and lead needs to be removed.

Some lamps such as the Eiko use a very small hot contact point that touches the lamp base. This is good in making contact on an older less even or good base but requires a good spring to apply pressure to a smaller surface area. This I have found. Other lamp bases have a wide either lead/solder base to it which can arc it’s way into melting to match that of the lamp base, or fairly flat areas of contact which might or might not touch in all areas. Some have a ring that is soldered into place in allowing the solder only to be really touching. Lots of styles of lamp in touching the lamp base. Best option is to provide a flat clean surface. This and ensure that your lamps installed in them are in good shape also or at least re-surfaced. One can buy a 2" soft fiber grinder wheel to re-surface a lamp base also as an option. Soft silicone based or fiber based grinder or Dremmel wheels are optimum in making the brass become mirror finish again. Otherwise for something just needing oxidation removed, use a brass wire wheel as opposed to a steel one. Brass in being softer will damage the surface much less. Follow this touch up or any treating of a lamp base with a surface coating of it or it will oxidize if not corrode.

Note the wiring shown to the lamp base. I’m using 16-14ga High Temperature #6-8 stud ring terminals crimped by way of “Stakon tool” with ½" #69 Scotch Fiberglass Electrical tape over the crimp part of the ring terminal so as to insulate them from any metal areas of the lamp base. I’m also using Silicone/Bronze external tooth lock washers on brand new brass screws at each lamp base. The old at best oxidized at worst arched screws were trashed - best to replace all bolts thought the fixture possible after 40 years. This includes new stainless steel lamp base mounting screws to the lamp base plate and re-surfacing plus high-temperature painting the base plate.

There is or was an asbestos pad between lamp base and lamp base mounting plate. This was scraped off, wire wheeled and replaced with a non-asbestos glass/ceramic fiber pad. This pad is very important to either buy a replacement for or use the glass/ceramic bought in a 3" spool 1/32" thick replacement insulator for.

After this, SF-2 wire is used, black for the hot or at least a black sharpee stripe for the hot when I ran out black 16ga SF-2 wire. Fixtures were also grounded by way of green SF-2 or 150c FEP which would also work well by way of knowing that if the FEP melts down, one should check the condition of the SF-2. Such use of a lower temperature grounding wire is frequently found in the industry as an indicator for a fixture that has seen too much heat. Avoid type TGGT 250c wire for a lamp base, while rated for a higher temperature, it’s stranding is thicker and less in flexibility thus won’t hold up as well in a fixture whip. Grounding was done to the lamp base plate and not the fixture cap.

Other details, Lamp cap plates/them rings that ensure light does not leak out of the lamp cap were not added to these fixtures. Such an addition however would help prevent light from spilling out of the lamp base much better.

034, not so clear photo of a 40+ year old GE lamp base now as if new in ability to use again. Note I’m only really cleaning what I can of the lamp base - and what will contact the lamp, I’m also where shown and possible tightening the screws attaching the neutral lamp base shell down and where necessary adding ceramic putty to re-fill holes in the rear of the lamp base where the lamp base has it’s filler falling out. Contact me in reply to post or off line in request following this for exact part numbers of ceramic putty used for either supporting of lamps themselves of filling holes in lamp bases. I also use such putty to support moving light lamps where the ceramic is breaking down, 5Kw Fresnel lamps where the support has also broken away, or in general on any lamps or high temperature putty insulator/support applications. Otherwise there is a type of ceramic putty that will fill holes and those holes normally filled if cracked or gone should be in repair to a lamp base also be filled in patching up.

#36 Strain relief:
All of these Lekos were asbestos originally and never had a strain relief to them. As opposed to a 7/8" hole for a ½" NPT for NMT cable strain relief (hack especially if using the newer style that won’t clamp as well), it’s better to use a 3/8" NPT Altman two screw strain relief for retrofit to cords. In reality, the Altman two screw strain relief while at 3/8" thus smaller and less damaging to the fixture hole kind of sucks in what Altman sells these days. The 3/8" NPT two screw strain relief Altman currently sells by way of where ever they get it from no doubt China is a far cry from what they used to offer in refinement or being safe to use. Were there another supplier (and I am looking) for a similar part, I would stop buying this very useful part from them.

First cause of problem with this not as good as it used to be part is the fill hole for the aluminum casting. Who ever makes this part for Altman doesn’t bother with quality control and allows the aluminum casting to have it’s aluminum filling the cast randomly stick out with sharp edges into the fill hole extra are. Problem is that this extra material in the clamp is inside the area of where the two screw strain relief plate clamps down into. This means with extra fill hole material in the are of the clamp plate, it does not allow the plate to clamp down on the cable sufficiently. One must grind away this extra material in order to ensure proper tension on the wires and outer jacket.

Second cause of a problem, in general the casting leaves sharp edges where conductors will touch it. This is both by way of the stamped flat steel two screw strain relief plate with a sharp edge in need of a wire wheel to ensure it won’t cut into outer jacket or conductor, and in general in all cast areas where conductor touches the cast part a need for sharp edge to be removed. Pipe fitting reemer and hole reemer are needed to remove both rough casting burrs and sharp edges. The pipe reemer also is to remove fill hole creep into the cable area with it’s sharp edges. At very least time with Dremmel tool and sand paper is needed to refine what’s provided for edges in what the cable touches. Never install such a clamp directly from Altman in a fixture without your own making it right work to it or you will get a short soon afterwards.

Third cause of a problem is the class of screw fit. The 3/8" NPT cast screw threads are undersized for the nut used. One must use Loctite #272 to supplement the lack of fitting on the nut to the casting if one wishes for a nut not to loosen up over time. It will help some at least though reaching that flow point between stripped nut and tight enough is still needed to find in a strain relief that won’t unscrew.

Note in addition to the strain relief #69 fiberglass electrical tape directly under the two screw strain relief. I use this method no matter what type of strain relief I use and is a good trick. This serves two purposes. First, the tape helps prevent the two screw strain relief or any other type of strain relief once tight and while flexing from directly cutting into the outer jacket and inner conductors of the fiberglass coated conductors or outer jacket. It also prevents or at least suppresses bending directly at the strain relief this cord from by way of bending at a choke or sharp area from breaking down. The tape makes a larger dia. angle which becomes less damaging. This is especially important where the strain relief touches the cord - ever notice how the outer jacket constantly breaks down at the strain relief? I won’t if you fiberglass tape the jacket.

039, Century 4.5x6.5 fixture pre-bench focus and final assembly. New Altman 360Q shutters, all around new bolts including screws holding shutter handles and yoke much less all other parts other than in retaining origional knobs and acorn nuts. Otherwise all old hardware was re-tapped or died. All original parts or tapped holes were also oiled with Teflon oil. The Century clamp itself was coated in oil, and all holes were re-tapped with bolts replaced or also re-tapped.
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Is there anywhere to get the service manuals, ecetera for the Century radial Lekos? One of our theatres has about 3 dozen of them and they're in very rough shape and never maintained since the theatre only gets 2-3 shows a year.
Been lots of posts in the past about servicing Lekos, radial and axial or in general. Lots of people contributed to them in passing on tips. A good search for them and some time would possibly prove very useful in learning what to look for and how to. Manuals on these Lekos won’t deal with how to fix abused fixtures.

Beyond that, Century fixtures are long discontinued. If there was even parts manuals and exploded pictorials plus care and prep sheets published, they are long gone now. Only places I could think of that might have such a thing would be first Strand - don’t know if it would either be the US or UK branch, but you would have to get really chummy with a contact there to even get the search started. Possibly Altman might have them on file but again the same it being very hard to find the paperwork. And potentially in the only place that stocks parts to discontinued fixtures: Vara-Light/Dimatronics/Hub Electric (Old parts Dist., Owned by Altman) 6207 Commercial Rd. Crystal Lake, Il. 60014. (815)455-4400. Otherwise, while not centered around other brands of fixture, the webmaster at http://www.klieglbros.com/ might have a copy of the manual he has not published. Don at Don’s Bulbs possibly could have a copy as a theory. Could also post to Stagecraft in asking if anyone has a copy. First you would want to know which manual you are looking for. (Below)

A further option after reading is to take photos and ask. Many parts used inside these fixtures are universal in brand so Altman parts often will fit.

Old 6"ERS - Radial (Not 360 Series): EGE, EGJ, EGG, EGM, DNS, DNT, EGD, EGF, DEB
Old 8" Fresn.: DWT, Q1000T3/CL, FEY, FER
Old 6" Fresn.: BFE, DNW
18" Scoop: 2M/PS52/34, 1500/IF, 1000/IF, 750/IF
#1211 3" Fresnel: 150G16.1/2DC-150w, ETC, ESR
#523 3" Fresnel: 150G16.1/2DC-150w, ETC, ESR
#500 6" Fresnel: BFE, 250T20/47, DNW
#550 6" Fresnel: BFE, 250T20/47, DNW
#553 6" Fresnel: FAD, EHP, EHR
#3312 6" Fresnel: BTN, BTL, BTP
#33420 6" Fresnel: BTN, BTL, BTP
#3486 8" Fresnel: FEL, ENH
#570 8" Fresnel: 1500G40/21, 1M/G40/20, 2M/G48/5
#510 10" Fresnel: G-48 C13D-2Kw, G-48 C13-2Kw
#1580 (Radial) ERS: 750T12/9
#1581, 1582 & 1583 (Radial) ERS: DEB, 250T12/8
#1480 (Radial) ERS: EGE, EGD
#1587, 1586, 1588; (Radial) ERS: DEB, 250T12/8
#1215 & 2115; 3.1/2" ERS: EHR, EHP, FDA
#1217 & 2125; 3.1/2" ERS: EHR, EHP, FDA
#1219 & 2135; 3.1/2" ERS: EHR, EHP, FDA
#1590, 1591 & 1592 (Radial) ERS: 750T12/8
#1490 (Radial) ERS: EGG, 500T12/8, EGD
#1533 & 1534 (Radial) ERS: DNT, DEB
#1537 & 1538 (Radial) ERS: DNT, DEB
#1597 & 1598 (Radial) ERS: DNT, DEB
#2343 & 2344 (Radial) ERS: EHG, EHD, EHF, FEL
#1493 (Radial) ERS: EGG, EGC
#1562 & 1563 (Radial) ERS: 3MT32/2 c13D
#1567 & 1568 (Radial) ERS: 2M/T30/1, 1M/T24/5, 1500/T24/6
#1575, 1572, 1573, & 1575T (Radial) ERS: 750T12/9, 500/12/8, 1M/T12/2
#1521 & 1522 (Radial) ERS: 750T/12/9, 500/T12/8, 500/T12/9, 1M/T12/2
#1551 & 1552 (Radial) ERS: 2M/T30/1 C-13d
#1553 & 1554 (Radial) ERS: 3M/T32/2 C-13d
#1515 10" Beam Projector: 750T20/C-13, 500T20/C-13, 500T20/C-13d
#1313 14" Scoop: (P-28s) Q1000T12/4, Q500T12, Q750T12
#1064 Follow Spot: PAR64 1Kw/28v cat. #4556
#1542 Follow Spot: 3M/T32/C-13d
#1545 Follow Spot: 3M/T32/C-13d - 5Kw
#4481 Follow Spot: FEL
#202 Follow Spot: Carbon Rod - Manual Feed
#225 Follow Spot: Carbon Rod - Manual Feed

Strand & Strand/Century:
18/32; 26/44: (1Kw) FWS, FWT, T/29, Philips #6897P, (1.2Kw) CP/90, Philips #6895P
(1Kw/230v) FWP, FWR, T/19, T/11, Philips #6996P
Antares 1,25Kw Softlight: P2/12, Philips #6358R
Antares 2.5Kw Softlight: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Antares 5Kw Softlight: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Altair 2,5Kw CID/HMI: MSI 2500
Altair 1Kw CID/HMI: MSI 1200 (Sfc 15.5-6)
Arturo MRII: EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R
Arturo HMI1200: MSI 1200 (Sfc 15.5-6)
Arturo HMI2500: MSI 2500
Broad 1250w Floodlight: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Cadenza 8, 12/22, 19/32, D/808, D/818, D/828, Solo 2K: (2Kw/230-240v) FTM, CP/72, CP/43,
Philips #6994P
CODA 500/1 Cyc/Strip Light Mk II (single), /3 (tripple), /4 (quad) Strand Lighting : 1cir/1 lamp,
3cir/3 lamp, 4cir/4 lamp: (R-7s) FDN
Follow Spot: CSI
Fund PC, 9/15EP: (2Kw/230-240v) FTM, CP/72, CP/43, Philips #6994P
Giano: (1Kw/230-240v) EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
#H1000, H1000A: EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R
Harmony 12; 15/28; 22; 22/40; F & PC: (1Kw/230v) FWP, FWR, T/19, T/11, Philips #6996P,
(1Kw/230-240v) FVA, CP/70, CP/24, Philips #6995P
Iris 4, 3, 2 Harizonflutter: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1Kw) EKM, P2/7,
Philips #13989R, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Iris Cyclorama: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Janebeam 800, 3/4(Readhead): DXX, P2/13, Philips #13162R
Lady Cyc MK II: (1Kw/120-230-240v) FCM, P2/20, Philips #7786R
Lady Fill MK II: (1Kw/120-230-240v) FCM, P2/20, Philips #7786R
Lekolite: FLK, EHD, EHG, FEL, Philips #6983P
Mini Iris: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1Kw) EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R,
(1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Mini Iris Top Light: (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Mini Zoom: EYJ, EXZ
Minim 23, F, PC: (500w) GCV/GVH, GCW/GCI, T/25, T/18, Philips #6820P
Nocturne 1000: EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R
Orion Bodenfluter: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16, (1Kw) EKM, P2/7, Philips #13989R, (1250w) P2/12, Philips #6358R
Pallas Groundrow: (625w/230-240v) P2/10, Philips #7775R/16
Pani HMV 1200/20; 1200/35: (1200w/230v) MSI 1200 (Sfc 5.5-6)
PAR 200w Daylight: MSR 200HR
PAR Blazer: (1Kw/230v) CP-60, CP-61, CP-62/CL
Perseo 1200HMI: MSI 1200 (Sfc 5.5-6)
Pinza 500: Philips #PF 208
Prelude 16/30 ; 28/40; 30; 40; F; PC: (500w) GCV/GVH, GCW/GCI, T/25, T/18, Philips #6820P,
(650w) GCK/GCT, GCL/GCS, T/27, T/26, Philips #6823P
Shaula: MSI 575
Sino 1200HMI: MSI 1200 (Sfc 15.5-6)
Sirio 575HMI: MSI 575
Sirio 2500HMI: MSI 2500
Sirio 4000HMI: MSI 4000
Sirio 6Kw HMI: MSI 6000
Sirio 12Kw: MSI 12000 (Sfc 15.5-6)
Sirio Bambino 1200w: MSR 1200HR
Sirio Bambino 2500w: MSR 2500HR
SL 15/38 & SL 23/50: (575-600w/115v) GLA, GLB, Philips #6992P & 6991P,
(575-600w/230-240v) GLC, GKV, Philips #6989P & 6986P
SL 5; 10; 19; 26; 36 & 52: (575-600w) GLC, GKV, Philips #6989P & 6986P
Solo 2K: (2Kw/230-240v) FTM, CP/72, CP/43, Philips #6994P
Super Quasar: MSR 2500HR
#Patt 23, 23F, 23W ERS Strand Century : BTL, BTM
#Patt 123 Strand Electric 6" Fresnel: 500T20/48, 250T20/47
#Patt 123W Strand Electric 6" Fresnel: 500T20/48, 250T20/47
#Patt 223 8" Fresnel: BFE, 1M/T20/SP
#Patt 243 10" Fresnel: 2K (E-39)
#Patt 243BP 10" Fresnel: 2M/G48/17, 1M/G48/11
#Patt 264 (Radial) ERS: DNV, DNT
#Patt 264W (Radial) ERS: Q1000T12/4CL, 750T12
#233, 753, 793: (2Kw/120-230-240v) CYX, FKK, FKP, CP/41, CP/73, Philips #6994Z
#253H / 793: (2Kw/120-230-240v) CYX, FKK, FKP, CP/41, CP/73, Philips #6994Z
#265 Mark II Follow Spot: 400 & 600w Mercury-Iodide
#743; 763; 763F; 763W; 764; 764W; 773; 774; 750; T-Spot/44; T/54; T/64: (1Kw/230v) FWP, FWR, T/19, T/11, Philips #6996P, (1Kw/230-240v) FVA, CP/70, CP/24, Philips #6995P
#1318 18" Scoop: (E-39) 2M/PS53/34, 750/IF, 1000/IF, 1500/IF
#2111 & 2112 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
#2113 & 2114 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2123 & 2124 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
#2204 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
#2205 Strand Century Zoom: EVR, EHT, Q400CL/MC
#2206 Strand Lighting Zoom: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2209 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
#2211 (Radial) ERS: EGE, EGD
#2212 & 2213 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2215 Strand Century 3.5x5 (c1960's) (Radial) ERS: BTL, BTM
#2215 Strand Lighting 6" Leko ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2216 & 2217 Strand Century ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
#2220 Leko Strand Lighting ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2225, 2235, 2215 Strand Century ; ERS: BTL, BTM
#2230 Leko Strand Lighting ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2240 Leko Strand Lighting ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2355 (Radial) Strand Century ERS: BTL, BTM
#2250 Leko Strand Lighting ERS: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2271 Cantata Strand Lighting Zoom: FEL, EHD, EHG, Philips #6983P
Cantata F, PC 11/26, Verfolger: (1Kw/230-240v) FVA, CP/70, CP/24, Philips #6995P
#2272 Cantata Strand Lighting Zoom: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2273 Cantata Strand Lighting Zoom: FEL, EHD, EHG
#2274 Quartet 22/40; 25; F; Strand Lighting Zoom ?PC: FRE (500w LL) M/40 Philips #6877P
(500w LL) GCV/GVH, GCW/GCI, T/25, T/18, Philips #6820P
(650w) GCK/GCT, GCL/GCS, T/27, T/26, Philips #6823P
#2275 Quarted 25 Strand Lighting ERS: FRE, FRG
#2311, 2322 (Radial) ERS: EGG, 500T12/8, EGD
#2331 & 3232 (Radial) ERS: EGG, EGC
#2337 & 2338 ERS: EGJ, EGE, EGG
#2341 & 2342 (Radial) ERS: EGG, EGE
#2347 & 2348 ERS: EGJ, EGE, EGG
#2457 & 2458 ERS: EGJ, EGE, EGG
#2567 & 2568 ERS: EGJ, EGE, EGG
#2667 & 2668 ERS: EGJ, EGE, EGG
#3101 Mizar Strand Lighting 3" Fresnel: FEV, ESR, ESP
#3102 Mizar Strand Lighting 3" Fresnel (GY-9.5): FRB, FKW
Mizar MR II: (300w) FSL, FSK, CP/81, Philips #6872P, (500w) FRH, FRJ, CP/82, Philips #6873P
(500w LL) GCV/GVH, GCW/GCI, T/25, T/18, Philips #6820P
#3141 3" Fresnel: ESP, ESS
#3142 Strand Century 3" Fresnel: ESS, ETC, ESR, ESP, FEV
#3201 Bambino Strand Lighting 5" Fresnel: EGT, EGR, EGN, FKJ, CP/71, CP/40, Philips #6995Z
#3242 Strand Century 4.5" Fresnel: BTL, BTM, 750T17-500w
#3301 Polaris Strand Lighting 6" Fresnel: EGT, EGN, EGR, FKJ, CP/71, CP/40, Philips #6995Z
#3302 Bambino Strand Lighting 6" Fresnel: CYX, CYV, CXZ, CYV, CYZ, FKK, FKP, CP/41, CP/73, Philips #6994Z
#3380 Strand Century 6" Fresnel: BTR, BTL, BTN
#3382 Quartet F Strand Lighting 6" Fresnel: FRE
#3383 Quartet Strand Lighting PC: FRE
#3408 Strand Century 8" Fresnel: BVW, BVT, CWZ
#3413 8" Fresnel: BVW, BVT
#3501 Castor 10" Strand Lighting Fresnel: CYX, CYV, CXZ, FKK, FKP, CP/41, CP/73, Philips #6994Z
#3505 Bambino Strand Lighting 10" Fresnel: DPY, CP/85, CP/29, Philips #6936Z
#3601 Pollux Strand Lighting 12" Fresnel: DPY, CP/29
#3701 Vega Strand Lighting 14" Fresnel: DTY, CP/83
#4121 10" Beam Projector: BTR, BTL, BTN, 500T20/64, 750T20P/SP
#4122 Strand Century 10" Beam Projector: BTR, BTL, BTN 500T20/64, 750T20P/SP
#4125 Strand Century 15" Beam Projector: BVW, BVT
#4204 Strand Century 8.1/2" Scoop: 200A/CL, 150A/CL
#4205 Strand Century 10.1/2" Scoop: (E-39) 500PS-35, 300PS-35
#4271 14" Scoop: (P-28s) EGK, Q1000T12/4
#4273A Strand Century 18" Scoop: (E-39) Q2000/4/95, DSE, DSF
#4291 Strand Century 14" Scoop: (P-28s) EGK, EGE, EGG, EGJ
#4411 Strand Century Follow Spot: CSI 1Kw
#4452 Follow Spot: BWA
#4473 Strand Century Follow Spot: CYX, CP/56
#5300 Strand Lighting Cyc Light (2.3/8" oc w. 2 lamp/compartment) 6'/3cir - 30 lamp: EYF, EYC, EXT,
#5911 (single), 5912 (Dual), 5913 (Tripple), 5914 (Quad) Strand Century Cyc Light 1cir/1 lamp: (R-7s)
#5915 Strand Century Mini Cyc 1cir/1 lamp: (R-7s) FFT, FDB
#5940 Strand Lighting Cyc Light (12" oc) 1cir/1 lamp: (R-7s) FHM, FDN, FDF, EJG, FCM
#12011 (Optique 8/17) Strand Lighting Zoom: T/29 (1200w)
#12021 (Optique 15/42) Strand Lighting Zoom: T/29 (1200w)
#13011 “Beamlite 500" Strand Lighting 9.1/2" Beam Projector: E-40 Base, 500w/24v
#13021 “Beamlite” Strand Lighting 13" Beam Projector: K-39d Base, 1Kw /24v
I'm just about to be completed with my service call of 4 360Q 6x9's and 5 6x12's. I feel like I could now completely assemble a 360Q (shutters included) in the complete dark!

When I first got them they were filthy ceased up solid. Now they look just like new equipment. I still need to shell out a few hundred bucks for lamp cap assemblies though...

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