What kind of C-clamp should I buy?
- Thread starterFlashBang
- Start date
Against Mega Clamp... doesn’t have the pan “FU” set screw in adjusting without loosening from yoke. Fine if using a fiber washer between clamp and yoke which won’t allow for over tightening - perhaps in this case of a washer between fiber washer and the clamp so it don’t sink in as badly, At that point you can retain tension and swivel, but otherwise often you will loosen and damage the fixture yoke if swiveling without loosening the yoke bolt.
To the above use of C-Clamps directly on truss - you are correct, but look up the term [-]“Truss Condom”[/-] "truss protector".
Totally agree with Derek in all.
Lastly about the Mega Clamp... from a engineering concept standpoint, they are too narrow in width of clamping. Not that they won’t clamp a fixture to a pipe or something, only that if such a fixture is hit or torque in say focusing left to right, it might. That small size could in such torque become loose in clamping in digging in less so than a wider clamp or cheaseborough of any type might.
This is perhaps the honest assessment on why such a clamp has not been much used in the market.
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Les
Well-Known Member
I believe it's called a belleville washer, or conical spring washer.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.
It's not really a "push-and-twist" operation, per se. This type of clamp gets tightened to the yoke most like any cast iron c-clamp, and unless over-tightened, the conical shape of the washer allows the fixture to be panned both ways without loosening the yoke bolt due to the spring-like nature of the washer. That's in theory. In practice, they can easily get over-tightened (sometimes by panning a fixture too far to the left [if focusing a standard underhung fixture from behind, like on a catwalk], or counter-clockwise if we're talking about a downlight) which makes the clamp extremely difficult to remove. I've also seen these clamps scour aluminum yokes. They're not "bad" clamps, but they can have their own ...peculiarities. They can also be a real pain to encounter if you're working in a venue with a mixture of these and standard cast c-clamps.
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You've probably seen these on almost instrument connecting it to the yoke for the tilt mechanism. Works well compared to "disc brake" like system where a small disk comes out on the side of instrument and a handle tightens it down.
I hate to be the grouchy old guy but my vote is for good old fashioned cast iron ETC or Altman clamps. I'm also in with Derek on why replace the whole clamp when all you need to do is replace some bolts. That's a lot of money that could be spent on more important things. Teach proper tightening. Never let anyone use anything larger than a 6" crescent wrench (or the new flat focus tool) and they'll last a long time.
Mega-Claws are way over kill for conventional fixtures. I had them on my Seachangers and on my Apollo Right arms. They are also awesome for Vertical booms. But you'll hate yourself if you have to fight with something that big on a day to day basis.
As for Mega-Clamps or using a standard C-clamp with a Mega handle. You are in a school right? Shouldn't students be learning all the skills they need. The most basic of which is how to properly lock down a fixture. In my opinion, you are doing a disservice to them by making it too easy with these options. We all need to struggle through learning to perfectly focus, then lock the fixture down without moving it. School is the place to do that.
Mega-Claws are way over kill for conventional fixtures. I had them on my Seachangers and on my Apollo Right arms. They are also awesome for Vertical booms. But you'll hate yourself if you have to fight with something that big on a day to day basis.
As for Mega-Clamps or using a standard C-clamp with a Mega handle. You are in a school right? Shouldn't students be learning all the skills they need. The most basic of which is how to properly lock down a fixture. In my opinion, you are doing a disservice to them by making it too easy with these options. We all need to struggle through learning to perfectly focus, then lock the fixture down without moving it. School is the place to do that.
I don't like the angle the bolt tightens in at. Basically because its such a shallow angle it takes forever to tighten it down compared to a traditional one. While this isn't an issue when hanging stuff down off a pipe, when your on a ladder side hanging a leko to a vertical truss holding the light up with one arm and tightening with the other hand it becomes quite a bit more noticeable.
And I like my pan bolt.
The biggest reason we changed from the old style etc clamps to the mega clamps was safety. Those old cast iron clamps aren't really rated for weight. The best answer you can get is that they're rated "for a source four" or whatever flavor of fixture they come with. Not for the weight equal to that fixture, but ONLY for that fixture.
The mega clamps have a true weight rating, and that goes a long way in my book.
The mega clamps have a true weight rating, and that goes a long way in my book.
But those clamps are generally accepted as fine for that job even if they aren't rated. That's why we've got safety cables. I have to agree that people need to be taught not to over tighten, and if you have truss or strange circumstances THEN pick up some special clamps for those applications.
I've got the same Altman clamps on my cyc lights as my fresenels as my strip lights and those have a fairly large weight difference.
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I've got the same Altman clamps on my cyc lights as my fresenels as my strip lights and those have a fairly large weight difference.
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Generally accepted and actually safe are two different things. Don't get me wrong, I used those clamps for years, and even still sell fixtures with them on it. But when it is my responsibility and insurance on the line, I want something that has a real weight rating. Call me paranoid about rigging, if you like.
I believe it was mpowers in the schedule 40 thread we have going that mentioned lots of things not being rated, clamps being one, but it doesn't matter when something that is rated is doing the work ( I'm paraphrasing slightly) it just seems counter productive when used in conjunction with safety cables. I understand it's one more step with having the clamps rated too and that gives peace of mind and helps cover you. But with the rate they fail at and the cable to catch it, I feel like thats an added expense I can put towards something else.
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Are your batten rated? Do you have any non-Chinese quick links that are rated? (They do exist but are VERY rare.)
I see your point and I definitely agree with you about using properly rated equipment, but you are being overly cautious on this one. C-clamps are made to hang fixtures. Whether they are rated or not that is the manufacturer's intended purpose. While I'm no lawyer, I doubt you have any liability as long as use c-clamps made by ETC or Altman (major manufacture name stamped into the material), you use them for their intended purpose (hanging conventional fixtures) and you don't over tighten them. I wouldn't use c-clamps that don't have the manufacturer's name stamped in them. And of course, always safety your fixture before you fully tighten the c-clamp.
I have a number of clamps that say "KLIEGL". Are those okay? Must I only use them with Kliegl Bros. fixtures?
If one of my Electro Controls (or Century) clamps fails, can I sue Strand Lighting?
pmolsonmus
Active Member
To ship:
Yes, I (meaning myself) have heard of truss protectors, but we're in a school setting that doesn't have an official facility manager. I am 99.9% sure that if there is a C clamp on a fixture and the fixture needed to be moved from batten to truss and I wasn't around to do it. That C clamp would be on the truss without a protector.
I only direct a few shows in our space, and almost none of the other directors has any technical knowledge. Sometimes you need a belt and suspenders, and sometimes you have to prevent problems even if it is more expensive.
Phil
Yes, I (meaning myself) have heard of truss protectors, but we're in a school setting that doesn't have an official facility manager. I am 99.9% sure that if there is a C clamp on a fixture and the fixture needed to be moved from batten to truss and I wasn't around to do it. That C clamp would be on the truss without a protector.
I only direct a few shows in our space, and almost none of the other directors has any technical knowledge. Sometimes you need a belt and suspenders, and sometimes you have to prevent problems even if it is more expensive.
Phil
If you went half cheaseborough for everyting, that was probably very wise given the circumstances. Otherwise if Mega Clamp as presented earlier - you still have that bolt tightening into the truss as the source of the problem.
Find at work a lot of off the street people pulling gear. Gear pull lists are very specific as to what is needed, a photo or drafted up diagram with name attached to it is attacheched to each bin to pull from. Even how to mount a C-Clamp on a Leko is drawn out and posted or handed out.
Realizing it's a different situation, but such guides presented in how to do it properly can be done no matter the skill level.
Perhaps Controlbooth can present such drawings to print up at some point. (This granted not everyone has the same situation or even use fiber washers.) Often I also don't find out what others have done until afterwards and have no control over what others do unless they ask.
Does get better with training and set guidelines shown.
Easily and with a passion.
I'm fond of couplers because they are quick and slightly more idiot proof, but I'd still rather have a nice traditional c-clamp.
Having not been to their website recently I will say that Light Source's safety clamp looks nice, I kind of hope to see it going into schools.
Oh, and out of curiosity, has anyone used the Mega-Cable Carrier?
Having not been to their website recently I will say that Light Source's safety clamp looks nice, I kind of hope to see it going into schools.
Oh, and out of curiosity, has anyone used the Mega-Cable Carrier?
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Actually I was thinking of the Mega Claw not Mega Clamp. Mega Claws are nice but a pain in the butt. Mega Clamps I don't really like, too big for no apparent reason.
OH. MY. GOD.
I've been wanting to create something like this for a long time, but wasn't sure what I'd use.
I too would like to hear from someone who's used them. What kind of spacing did you find best?
